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Plating for tinplating

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Plating for tinplating
Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 10:44 AM
I'm sure someone answered this question but I cannot find the answer.

I'm considering various options for running my trains outdoors. Obviously, Atlas n/s is the way to go, but I have a lot of 027 and not a lot of money and was curious to know if there is some type of electroplating that I could do to protect the track from rust. I would, obviously, need to solder all sections securely together.

I was reading a Garden RR magazine article from sometime in 2000 that actually featured a 3-rail layout that used Gargraves track (which themselves are tubes). Apparently, the elderly operator had been running trains w/out incident on his GG tracks outside for many years.

If the electroplating process would weatherproof the track, could you then point me in the right direction for how it is done so I can do a cost-benefit analysis.

As for the ties, the metal ones it comes with can, I'm assuming, be electrolyted as well.

I considered making wooden ties. However, treating the ties might prove problematic as creosote is not longer legal. The author of the article who used GG used to creosote his.

I could purchase pressure-treated wood at Home Depot and rip ties from that but I don't know if its treatment process is as effective as creosote. I could periodically put chemicals down but don't know if that would negatively affect the rails, if some were to spill on them.

Someone might say I should go G-scale. That's an option, but I already have a lot of toy trains and besides, I can get more railroading into the same space as I can with G (i.e., longer trains).
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Posted by Jumijo on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:11 PM
David,

The money spent plating would be more expensive than buying n/s track. If you're going to buy Gargraves, then buy the Atlas n/s instead and you don't have to maintain it. If you have a lot of spare O27 tubular track, set that up and use it as a test. See how it does outside for a few months. O27 track is cheap, so you're really not risking much if it doesn't hold up. If the rails begin to rust, scotch brite the tops and leave the sides as is for a realistic look.

Check out the article in the new OGR about an O scale garden railway.

Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 1:00 PM
Forget about paying for plating. Not cost effective at all. Either use what you have, and be prepared to replace it after a while, or invest in track (Atlas or Gargraves) that will hold up outdoors for a longer time. Nothing offered in O gauge will hold up as well--or for as long--as the Large Scale stuff, but you'll just have to adjust to that.
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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 1:26 PM
Thanks guys for the good advice. I have just one more question that regards u/v.

In direct sunlight, I was thinking of running my diecast steam and diecast freight cars. Would there be any problems?

Oh, just one more idea. With my current 027, I could add an abandoned branchline and enjoy watching it slowly rust.

BTW, did you know that a couple of the live steam G-scale locomotives are built in such a way that the wheelbase can be narrowed for O scale (Gn3, actually probably more like Gn2). I picked up a Garden RR mag and browsed thru the ads and discovered that last night.
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Posted by csxt30 on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:18 PM
Hi Dave; great ideas & I can only comment on the abandoned branchline rusting research ! You could let some engs. & rolling stock rust & then do a great Restoration article on them! [8D] Oh, & keep us posted w / pics. Just don't put em' sideways, hate turning my computer sideways! [:D][:D] I do have a neighbor that is getting into the G gauge, though, & I hope to make some bldgs. for it & may even get a train to run over there someday ,too. Thanks, John
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 8:50 PM
Dave,

This may be over cautious. Others likely have better knowledge than me. Ripping treated wood into lots of ties (or other scale wood items for an outdoor layout) needs some care. Treated wood contains****nic. Cutting pieces for a deck is one thing. Cutting hundreds of ties means you might be exposed to a higher than normal concentration due to the amount of sawdust created, so you might consider use of a good quality respirator (not a paper mask) if you do this and keep BB out of the area.

Good luck with this.

Regards,
Roy

Regards, Roy

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Posted by jkerklo on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 8:03 AM
I use a product called "TinnIt" for prototype circuit boards. Available from All Electronics and Jameco (and others).

Might work if you are going to do the hand-laid rail technique.

It requires an elevated temperature to work. I use a hot plate and a "candy" thermometer.

John Kerklo
TCA 94-38455
www.Three-Rail.com
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Posted by lionelsoni on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 8:08 AM
The forum won't allow the first four letters of the word "a.rsenic". I guess you can't be too careful about things like that.

The use of a.rsenic to treat wood was supposedly stopped about a year and a half ago. However, the change was voluntary; and there might still be old stock out there. You should be able to find new treated wood that is labeled to show the ingredients. The specific chemical to look for is chromated copper a.rsenate, or CCA.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by trigtrax on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 9:06 AM
I thought Gargraves makes a stainless Steel track.. If so that would be the way to go.

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