My first pin vice experience leaves me happy but with questions

[ragnar]

QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G

Man was I excited. UPS dropped off my swivel-head pin vice with bits from #61 to 80. A #80 is about the size of a flea's eyewinker.

I ended up dumping them all on the floor. Then discovered that the plastic box they came in has a dispenser. I was lucky to find all of the bits.

My first try I used the #61, the largest, as I don't want to start breaking the thin ones. Found out that the pin vice contains 4 collets in secret compartments. The trick is to get the bit into the collet and tighten it without breaking the bit or getting it in crooked.

Took several tries to do this.

My first experiment was on my valuable K-Line PRR Ted's Root Beer boxcar. My goal was to drill a hole into the underside and up thru the floor, just for the heck of it, not for any particular reason.

I placed the swivel head in the palm of my hand and using my thumb and pointer finger of the same hand holding the swivel, I started twisting it into the plastic.

I found that to make the drill bite in, I needed to apply some pressure. Fortunately, it was just the right amount of pressure to get the bit going and not enough to snap the bit.

I'm still a bit afraid to use the smallest bits, which, as I think I mentioned, are about the width of a hair on a gnat's rear end (not that I've ever seen a gnat's rear end, mind you).

If anyone wants to share their pin vice techniques, please do so, as I've got some trepidation about those #80 bits.

BTW, projects I plan to use the pin vice for include handgrabs and locomotive and rolling stock detailing.

One thing that leaves me a bit puzzled is trying to figure out what gauge wire goes with what number bit.

If anyone knows, please share the secret!

Instead of using the palm of your hand,try using your index finger on top of the swivel to control the pin vise,using the thumb and second finger for turning,

[waltrapp]

Sorry Bob, I missed that link. It's better than the chart that's in MR.

[dougdagrump]

One thing I learned when I was building assembly "jigs & fixtures" for the aircraft industry was to check the dimensions of your of your drills and reamers prior to use. It doesn't sound like much but a difference of a few 1000's could be very costly when working with close tolerances.

[lionelsoni]

Walt, I gave him a link above to one of the many tables on the internet.

[waltrapp]

Dave,

While going thru older Model Railroaders over the weekend I saw a chart in the August, 2003 issue on page 46. It lists in one column the drill bit number and another column with the diameter in inches. Drill bits went from a 61 to an 80.

If you want the chart and can't get a hold of the magazine, I can either mail you the article or scan it and post it here.

- walt

[dougdagrump]

Dave, With a good set of calipers and 1" micrometer you can easily determine the correct drill size required by measuring whatever you will be inserting in the hole. The mic can also come in handy for measuring the drill diameters.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G

Great tips, guys,

Besides plastic and wood, are these tiny bits designed to drill thru anything else? i.e., soft metals. Mine are made of hardened steel maganese or something like that.
...snip...
W4BAR,
Great ideas. Where do you buy your bits in bulk?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM

https://www.travers.com/index.asp

These are well known tool suppliers. If what you need isn't in their FREE catalogue, you don't really need it.
But there is a well stocked hobby shop (Hobby Lobby maybe?) across from the Dulles Mariotte on rt 50. Just East of the 28-50 exit. I'll bet they have some.


I use them to drill broken screws out of eye glass frames. It is a rare occurence if they don't break.
A couple of my other obsessions is farting around with old clocks and making model stationary steam engines. Repivoting clock wheels and drilling steam passages are other easy ways of breaking them.


Bob
"A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort."

[FJ and G]

Great tips, guys,

Besides plastic and wood, are these tiny bits designed to drill thru anything else? i.e., soft metals. Mine are made of hardened steel maganese or something like that.

Jim,

Yes, already experienced the wandering bit phenomenon so will keep some sewing pins handy. (bits even wander in a drill press).

W4BAR,

Great ideas. Where do you buy your bits in bulk?

Philo,

Very challenging holding it straight. Takes a steady grip.

Roger B.

Good question! Impossible to tell IMO.

Dr. John,

I happen to have some from a toilet install project leftover. If I run out of that, there's always ear's wax.

Dougag,

I was puzzling over the use of micrometer and calipers last night. What do you use them for? Sounds like a good excuse to buy more tools!

[Jumijo]

Dave,

I've been using pin vices for years and can give you one good tip. To ensure that your bit is exactly where you want it to drill, try this step first.

I keep a couple of ordinary sewing "common pins" with the tops (balled ends) cut off in with my bits. Before I drill, I throw one of these pins in my pin vice and make starter holes. The pin's pointy end makes a very small indentation on the surface to be drilled, but it's large enough that when the drill bit is placed in it, it won't wander. As long as you make the indentation in the right spot, your drilled hole will be right where you wanted it.

Jim

[Anonymous]

You will break bits. Eventually you know which size you use the most, and buy them in bulk. I buy #66 by the gross.
It is worth remembering that the broken stub is still made of the same high quality HS steel that the broken end was. They can be modified as punches, screwdrivers. gravers, small pipes, etc.

Bob
A creative guy with a hammer and a drill can make it fit somehow

[philo426]

When you use a pin vise always put pressure in direct line with the bit and never place pressure to the side or the bit will most surely break.The key is to be paient and let the bit do the work do not force it or ,again it will break.I use #80 bits to drill plug wires in my 1/25 scale autos and find that it is not that hard as long as you take your time and do not put side-pressure on the bit.

[Roger Bielen]

My problem is how to tell what size the bit is, they're a bit small to see any numbers on.

[Dr. John]

Dave, if you can find a bar of bees wax it will help lubricate the bits, making them less likely to break.

[lionelsoni]

Here are the closest drills for some wire sizes:
19 AWG--#64 drill
20 AWG--#67 drill
21 AWG--#70 drill
22 AWG--#72 drill
23 AWG--#74 drill
24 AWG--#76 drill
25 AWG--#77 drill
26 AWG--#78 drill
27 AWG--#79 drill

(By the way, "vice" is British for "vise".)

[FJ and G]

thanks, guys for the advice. I bookmarked that site. An idea just crosssed my mind. Drill one hole in a homemade plastic "gauge" and simply fit the wire to the correct hole. Why didn't I think of that sooner.

OTOH, the micrometer and/or calipers might be the way to go as well.

[dougdagrump]

Dave, Invest in a good micrometer and a good pair of calipers. There should be conversion charts available for cross referencing the #bit size to a decimal equivalent. As far as crossreferencing for gauge # that I don't know.

[lionelsoni]

I posted this early last year:

"For the inquiring minds who want to know, the diameter of a wire as a function of AWG number is

diameter = .005 inch * 92^((36-AWG)/39)

where * denotes multiplication and ^ exponentiation."

Drill numbers have no particular relationship to AWG. Here is a link to a table:
http://www.ntgrc.org/drill_size_chart.htm
There is not a complete consensus on the exact diameters of number drills.

[FJ and G]

Man was I excited. UPS dropped off my swivel-head pin vice with bits from #61 to 80. A #80 is about the size of a flea's eyewinker.

I ended up dumping them all on the floor. Then discovered that the plastic box they came in has a dispenser. I was lucky to find all of the bits.

My first try I used the #61, the largest, as I don't want to start breaking the thin ones. Found out that the pin vice contains 4 collets in secret compartments. The trick is to get the bit into the collet and tighten it without breaking the bit or getting it in crooked.

Took several tries to do this.

My first experiment was on my valuable K-Line PRR Ted's Root Beer boxcar. My goal was to drill a hole into the underside and up thru the floor, just for the heck of it, not for any particular reason.

I placed the swivel head in the palm of my hand and using my thumb and pointer finger of the same hand holding the swivel, I started twisting it into the plastic.

I found that to make the drill bite in, I needed to apply some pressure. Fortunately, it was just the right amount of pressure to get the bit going and not enough to snap the bit.

I'm still a bit afraid to use the smallest bits, which, as I think I mentioned, are about the width of a hair on a gnat's rear end (not that I've ever seen a gnat's rear end, mind you).

If anyone wants to share their pin vice techniques, please do so, as I've got some trepidation about those #80 bits.

BTW, projects I plan to use the pin vice for include handgrabs and locomotive and rolling stock detailing.

One thing that leaves me a bit puzzled is trying to figure out what gauge wire goes with what number bit.

If anyone knows, please share the secret!