New K-Line Coupler Problems, Again

[dougdagrump]

This is the second set of ATS&F boxcars from K-Line that I am having coupler problems. They replaced the first set with no problem but it is a pain in the [censored].
This is the new style with the hidden uncoupling button. The tab for opening it manually is kinda hidden by the simulated air hose. Unfortunately I don't see anyway, short of dismantling the entire coupler, of increasing the tension on the spring. The manual ops tab goes completely down thru the center of the coupler to the knuckle so the spring can't be stretched or shimmed for greater tension.



Anybody else having similar problems with the new ones?
If you did how did you correct it?

[spankybird]

Doug,

I have only two refers with these truck on them and so far have not had any problems.

Maybe I have been luck so far.

[ChiefEagles]

The problem I have with these and older die cast K-Line couplers is you have to slam the train into the to get them to close. Even after lubication.

[dougdagrump]

I haven't had any coupling problems with these just uncoupling when they AIN'T supposed to. [censored] Sometimes this can result in a catastrophy. [xx(]

[brianel027]

Chief, let me be of some help to you (and others): So we're on the same page as far as terminology, I'm going by the illustration on page 661 of the Greenberg repair book for the "560" series truck.

The older K-Line diecast trucks came with the typical MPC style plastic thumbtack armature. The Greenberg book refers to this armature as the "Spring Assembly." I have found the plastic on these seems to be a little stiffer than those on similar Lionel cars. Please note that these thumbtack armatures are all slightly different and not necessarily interchangeable between Lionel MPC/LTI and K-Line.

Anyways, on the K-Line truck, place a finger on the end of the armature assembly on the opposide end of the knuckle. Then using another finger, flex the entire assembly. You might want to blast this with a little heat from a blow dryer first, as I have had one or two break from doing this over the years. I have found this bending or flexing of the armature helps in operation of the coupler.

When you uncouple with these over a UC track, you may notice because of the stiffness of the entire armature assembly, the entire piece can pull down out of the die-cast assembly of the coupler arm.

You may also want to look at the plastic end pin of the armature and see if there's some plastic flash. Use a fine file to carefully remove this. I have filed down the plastic pin just a tad at an angle and have found this to help. But you don't want to file too much, because those plastic armature assemblies are tough to replace into the die-cast trucks.

For cars that uncouple under load, I find the very small black hair rubber bands work great. I have found these at dollar stores: 500 count a buck. Not to mention the rubber bands make a great looking load for gondolas!!!

When K-Line first came out with the all-metal couplers on their trucks, the end pin on the armature assembly was very thick. You do have to slam cars to get them to close. This can be fixed by taking a small jewelers file and filing down the thickness of this pin on the inside face of the round shape pin.

You can also carefully give a slight bend to the metal armature and you may be able to avoid the filing of the armature pin. But you have to play around a little bit on this one. I have found a slight bend in the armature plate helps sometimes.

Also bear in mind, that cars made by the same company seem to couple together better than those of differing makes. As much as I like my Industrial Rail cars, I have some trouble with coupling them with K-Line cars. This has to do with the actual curve shape of the inner knuckle itself, and the thickness of the knuckle. Compare Lionel and K-Line plastic trucks with plastic knuckles, and you'll clearly see the knuckle on the K-Line cars is thicker than that of the Lionel ones.

I will also add that the trucks coming with the K-Line Train-19 series cars (I believe their Timken style truck) are their best ones IMHO. I've have no problems with the couplers and trucks of the Train-19 cars.

[ChiefEagles]

Thanks Brian. For ones that uncouple by themselves, I use to use my daughter's braces rubber bands. Very tiny. Just would go over knuckles and fits tight. Glad to know where to find some that are black

[dougdagrump]

Unfortunately with the design of these new couplers I don't believe the "Rubber Band" trick will work. The pin is actually inside a channel down the middle of the armature.

[eZAK]

dougdagrump,

Although I have not tried it yet,
I've been told that you need to remove the rivet pin holding the knuckle in place.
Stretch or replace the spring with a heavier one.
Then reassemble with new rivet pin.

[spankybird]

Doug,

I got a chance to put a train together with my K-Line refers. I put them behind the engine and then an Atlas refer and then an MTH Diecast refer and finally the caboose. Even pulling a 3.5% grade I didn't have any problems with the couplers coming open.

[spankybird]

[dougdagrump]

Tom, Mine were up front of I think it was a 24 car mixed freight. One opened up so I moved it to the rear then several hours later the second one opened up so it also went to the rear. I guess I'll just wait and see what happens with putting them at the rear of the consist, I really don't want to pull the entire coupler assembly apart.
Since I run at the museum they seem to get quite a workout, cars and locos as well, so I always take at least two trains to run, alternating every so often.

[spankybird]

If you aren't planing on opening the coupler, you could super glue them closed.

[brianel027]

I don't get into the new K-Line scale sized stuff, but it appears from your photo doug that these new couplers are probably similar to the kinds used on the K-Line streamliner passenger cars (which also had no thumbtack assembly or finger lever).

I never had any problems with my streamliners uncoupling under load. You might try contacting K-Line and see if they'll replace the trucks. If the cars are freight cars without roller pickups, it should be pretty easy to remove the trucks.

Or maybe one of the folks at K-Line service knows of a fix for this. Though I doubt since everything on the coupler is hidden, that doing it yourself will be real simple outside of glue or replacing the truck.

[dougdagrump]

Thanks for the reply this is already the second set of cars from K-Line. My first set had a similar problem so I asked their service dept about an adjustment to the couplers, instead they swapped out the whole set. All I really wanted was to find out is there any way of adjusting them. They really look nice but...............
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