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Lionel Milk Cars

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Watkinsville, GA
  • 2,214 posts
Posted by Roger Bielen on Saturday, April 2, 2005 3:36 PM
I use a separate accessory power suppy for my car and adjust it to suite. I use Gargraves track and made my own UCS sections using brass strips. You could try modifying the Realtrax sections by adding some brass strips to thicken and/or elevate the contact rails.
Roger B.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: morris il.
  • 102 posts
Posted by cmrj on Saturday, April 2, 2005 2:50 PM
I have 2 post war milk car's ,my 1033 supplies the power about 10 volt's . They have their oridginal can's and work great . If your's are new the magnet's in the can 's may be weak .
  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: San Francisco, CA
  • 36 posts
Posted by Yog-Sothoth on Saturday, April 2, 2005 1:59 PM
On the subject of milk cars, anyone have other suggestions to improve the reliavility of delivery? Even with the voltage turned down to the minimum for the car to operate, I have problems with cans shooting across the platform, ricocheting off the walls and falling over. I've wondered about putting some foam-like material on the platform sides to prevent can bounce.

Conversely, some cars seem to have weak solenoids and the mechanism won't engage without a little push (no apparent mechanical problems).

Still other cars have a tendency to deliver the cans sideways right out of the car!

Lastly, any way to get reliable contact between Lionel sliding shoes and Realtrax UCS sections? Right now I have a piece of Lionel UCS inserted in a Realtrax layout.

These are all modern (1987- present) cars. Also, I am using MTH's milk platform which I suppose might have some subtle spacing differences.

Any suggestions welcome!
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Delray Beach, FL
  • 311 posts
Posted by andregg1 on Saturday, April 2, 2005 1:38 PM
Hi
you have two ways for test your car.
remove the shell first.
and you can apply AC voltage in the selenoid (8volts aprox)
or DC voltage. the diference between the AC and DC is tha car must to work with AC (slow action) and with DC the action is very violent . so if you just want to test not matter wich kind of valtage you use.
And I recommend to check without electricity, move the selenoid with your hand
if every machanical component is ok try with electricity.
also DON"T apply electricity for long periods just a pulse is enough.
good luck and I glad to help you
Andre.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Watkinsville, GA
  • 2,214 posts
Posted by Roger Bielen on Saturday, April 2, 2005 12:38 PM
Since we're talking milk cars. I had a problem with the cans sometimes falling into the gap between the car and the platform. My solution was to glue a piece of plastic, I used a piece of 1/4" acrylic, to the edge of the platform to bridge the gap, remember to allow enough clearance for any engines or cars to clear.
Roger B.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Frankfort, Kentucky
  • 1,758 posts
Posted by ben10ben on Saturday, April 2, 2005 12:30 PM
Remove the shell using either the screw or spring clips(depending on the model), and apply power directly to the solenoid. You can also touch the track wires to the two pickup shoes on the bottom with the car laying on its side, but keep in mind that the car is a gravity feed and it won't eject more than one milk can(if any at all).

The easiest thing to do is use an operating track or OTC contactors.
Ben TCA 09-63474
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Lionel Milk Cars
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 2, 2005 12:24 PM
This may be a silly question, but is there any way to test a Lionel Milk car without using an operating track section?

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