Lionel Electrocouplers

[michiganutfan]

I have several Lionel TMCC-equipped engines eqipped with electrocouplers. I use my Cab-1 remote F and R buttons when I want to uncouple my engines from the consist. Sometimes they work and about half the time they don't. I have e-mailed Lionel Tech Support and they told me to ensure voltage at 18 watts or they won't fire. I do that and still my electrocouplers don't always fire. The problem occurs whether my consist is moving or stationary.
Any advice on what I might be doing wrong? I know it's an operator problem (me) and not a problem with my TMCC equipment, most all of which is almost brand new since I'm a newbie to the hobby (Christmas 2003).
Thanks for any advice and tips you can provide.

[1Trainman]

How are the batteries in the cab 1. Try the couplers on the engines with no cars coupled. If there is any pull on the couplers, often time the couplers will not open

[michiganutfan]

Hi 1Trainman,
Thanks for the reply. I haven't checked the batteries in my Cab-1. They may well be the source of my problem. I will replace the batteries today when I get home and try again. I will also try your other tip, uncouple my consist from my engines and see if the couplers will open. I will try the solutions separately so, if one works, I will know which solution solved the problem.
Thanks again for the tips!

[Anonymous]

Sometimes the spring in the electrocoupler is too strong & requires a higher voltage to cause the coupler to fire.

I believe Ben10Ben can tell you a good procedure for adjusting the tension in the spring in the coupler. I believe the procedure involves cutting away a couple of coils on the spring to reduce its tension.

Tony

[wrmcclellan]

I have had the same problem. Couplers work fine under no load and do not open when pulling cars. Sometimes increasing the track voltage to 19 or 20 volts helps.

I would also be interested in Ben10Ben's recommendations (particularly how to disassemble the coupler to work on the spring).

Regards,
Roy

[ben10ben]

To disassemble the coupler, first take a pair of needle nosed pliers and squeeze together the peened end of the rivet as much as you can. Then, use a dremel tool to grind it off until you can easily pull it out from the top. As you pull the rivet out, keep a close eye on the spring at the pivot, as it can easily shoot off never to be seen again. Once the rivet is safely out, pull the knuckle straight out, and dump the contents of the coupler onto the table. There should be a plunger and coil spring. If the coupler is hard to open, clip a turn or two off of the spring. If the coupler opens too easily, stretch the spring.

Once this is done, reassemble the coupler with the original rivet. If it still doesn't open to your satisfaction, pull the rivet back out and adjust the spring again. If it works correctly, put a small blob of solder on the rivet to hold it in place. That's it.

By the way, if you happen to have a rivet press, installing a brand new rivet would be preferable to the solder blob, but the solder blob works fine for those of us who can't afford a riveter.

[Jim Duda]

I think those coupler rivet pins are available separately and I have had good luck using the appropriately sized nail to mushroom the hollow end, just enough so they won't fall out...

[Anonymous]

Yes I have the same problem. Certian engines I own have this problem. I always have 18 Volts on the track. Some of my electrocouplers are hard to close as well. I have sent some of these engines back to lionel and they have been returned un fixed. Most of the time I only have one coupler that is bad. The spring is probably at fault. You can get replacement electrocouplers from lionel or train america. I prefer train america because their ec's are superior.

[Jim Duda]

As some datapoints only...I have just one TMCC controlled electro-coupler - a K-line scale Hudson w/tender. Firing the EC from either the Cab-1 OR the DCS handheld, it will not fire @ 11 volts but never misses @ 14 volts. The four MTH (1 PS-1, 3 PS-2) never fail at 12 volts...BUT I never am pulling more than 4 or 5 cars.

Could this be a Lionel EC only problem? I dunno...perhaps I am just lucky.

[Roger Bielen]

Before disecting the coupler, are you sure that you are getting a good signal? Do you hear the coupler firing and not opening? A good indication of weak signal problems is the headlight flickering as the train is running. I have a TMCC conversion that the standart antenna was too small and after adding to it all the problems I was experiencing were solved.

If you dissassemble the coupler do it over a towel, it helps keep the small parts from rolling away. Also, I always make sure that I have spare springs on hand before working on a coupler, most Lionel dealer/repair shops have the parts or they can be had at train shows.

[ben10ben]

Jim,
Thanks for the tip on the nail. I had never had thought of that, but it makes sense now that you mention it. I'll have to try it.

[Anonymous]

You can also use a small philips screwdriver to flare the rivets. Pointed center punches work the best.

[Anonymous]

I have seen some problems with them but only if I am pushing the cars into a siding the coupler will activate but the engine has them shoved together so my salution is to change direction before I hit either button and they work fine.

[lionelsoni]

Here is my customary technique for repairing couplers:

Do not try to pry the knuckle pin out with a pair of diagonal cutters or any other way. If you can even get a purchase on the pin, you will probably make a mess of both it and the coupler body.

Put the coupler upside down on top of the jaws of a vise which have been opened just enough to clear the head of the pin. Then drive the pin out with an ice pick. The tip of the ice pick goes into the depression at the bottom of the pin and follows the pin into the coupler as the pin is forced out, keeping everything together. Its easier if you have the coupler or even the truck separate from the car, but not worth it if that involves any extra work at all.

Remove the ice pick, the knuckle, and the pin. There is no reason to save a broken spring. If the bottom of the pin is spread too much to go back into the coupler, work it back into shape with the smooth back part of the jaws of a pair of pliers. However, a little resistance is better than a completely loose fit, since it helps to keep things together when reassembling.

Put the pin back into the top part of the coupler, part way across the gap, and set the coil of the (new) spring onto it. The long leg goes into the coupler pocket. The bent leg sticks across the opening. Do all this with the coupler upside down, so that gravity keeps the spring in place. Then pu***he pin the rest of the way across the gap.

Then take the knuckle and put its hinge edge against the pin, with the spring at the top, where there is a notch cast into the knuckle to clear it. The bent end of the spring goes behind the back part of the knuckle casting that will be buried inside the coupler. Then withdraw the pin carefully, past the hinge edge of the knuckle but not past the spring coil. When the pin clears the knuckle, the hinge edge should slide into place. Then put the pin all the way in.

Use a center punch to spread the bottom of the pin, but not any more than necessary to keep it from falling out, to make the next replacement easier.

The ice pick to use is the old, slender type. All the modern ones that I have seen are much too fat for this job.