New Lionel switch giving erroneous TMCC signals

[ChiefEagles]

That shows how smart Yankees are. I was in Chapel Hill [UNC Hospital] NORTH CAROLINA yesterday. Could have just driven by and visited with K-Line. Might just do that. [B)][(-D][(-D]

[spankybird]

IF they know you are from NC they will either over charge you or not sell it to you at all[:O][:D][^][;)][(-D]

[ChiefEagles]

Just have to mailorder one [K-Line] and see. Maybe a hobby shop near BPS in Baltimore. IF so, coming home with one packed in suit case. Surprise for NTSA. [;)]

[spankybird]

Gee Chief, I paid $25.00 each delivered (of course that is yankee price and norhtern delievery). You mean Lionel 027 switches are $50.00 now.

Bob, K-Line never updated the pic on their web site. So it's a secert. SHHHH

Buckeye. Just think Chief will pay for a switch that Don't work but that's better than buying one that does [?] [?][%-)][%-)][%-)][D)]

[Buckeye Riveter]

Isn't it odd, that I have never had a Lionel TMCC engine with coil couplers uncouple as it goes through and MTH RealTrack switch. My switches are track powered and boy do they snap open and closed quickly.

Tom, the electricity in the south has different types of electrons than what we have in the north. Remember there is a north end of a magnet and a south end. We're working with the north end and the Chief is working with the south end. [(-D][(-D]

Chief, get on the Lionel website and look at the SC-2 Manual. They show how to rewire an O-27 switch.

[ChiefEagles]

Tom, I will not pay twice as much for a K-Line junk switch. [:p] Fact is, a lot of my old track from my old layout [that I am using now] is old K-Line. It held up well in storage and still going strong. [;)] I'll just take the switch back and get a manual as it is a floor siding for temp use only. One day soon [I hope sooner than later], I will have a bunch of Lionel 027 027 remote and manual switches for someone. They work great. One thing you need to know, DCS and MTH engines run fine across the switch. [:)]

[lionelsoni]

Seeing is believing. I have been searching all over the K-Line web site and saw nothing that looks like your switch, Tom. I wonder where they're hiding it.

[spankybird]

Mine happen to be 027 switches with a 027 dia.[:p]

[lionelsoni]

Tom, are you talking about Supersnap switches? From what I can google, I can believe they use a stall motor and have no need for solenoids. But aren't they O31 profile? Frank says he is using O27. In any case, K-Line O27-type switches should have no solenoid-overheating problem.

[Anonymous]

Chief,

I did a search on the OGR Forum and found this post by a gentleman named Bill August:


Posted October 01, 2004 11:43 AM
I had this happen on a atlas loco with command and the solution TA gave me was to put a 1mfd non polarized capacitor across the coil coupler leads. This took care of the problem and it has not happened since. My problem was in the exact same place everytime on a oval of track.
You can get a 1 mfd non polarized capacitor at radio shack. Bill.

[spankybird]

QUOTE: Originally posted by lionelsoni

My K-Line switches have solenoids, and a switch to disconnect them after throwing. What moves yours, Tom?

The low profile switches have switch machines very much like Tootise (sp?).

and yes they still may have a solenoid in it, but I think you missed my point. [:D]

[Anonymous]

Chief,

There is a known problem with some of the TMCC Coil Couplers firing for no reason when going over switches. The fix is to attach a capacitor to coupler. I apologize, I do not have the details.

If you do a forum search over on the OGR Forum, you should find it. Many have experienced it, many have cured it, from what I understand.

Let us know how it goes, my friend.

[lionelsoni]

My K-Line switches have solenoids, and a switch to disconnect them after throwing. What moves yours, Tom?

[spankybird]

OK Chief, Let me see if I got this right.

You will pay less for on that Doesn't Work[B)]
instead of

Paying more for one that does work.[:D]

Which one are you better off with [?]

This must be a southern thing, It look nice, but just look at it, it don't work and I got a real deal on it. [(-D][banghead][banghead][:D]

[^][banghead][(-D][(-D][(-D]

[ChiefEagles]

She does not have K-Line switches and the other place wanted MSRP for them. I'll take it back.

[spankybird]

Chief, you should have bought the K-Line switch, they run on fix power and don't have any solenoids.

[Kooljock1]

Chief,

Have you followed LIONEL's protocall for re-wiring your switch for TMCC use? Because it's a switch made for O-27 use, there's no built-in provision for fixed voltage operation. That means that any time any engine or car is crossing your O-27 switches, whether O-42 or O-27, the solenoids are active.

Not only will this lead to melt-down in the switch housings, but it may cause odd behaviors in your TMCC reception, as your engines experience fluctuations in track power.

Instructions for re-wiring O-27 switches for TMCC operation are available on at LIONEL.COM, but I'd just go with either FasTrack or K-Line switches which are designed better.

Jon [8D]

[dougdagrump]

Hi Chief, Try checking out the coilcouplers.com site. I've been told that they have a lot of help info there.

[ChiefEagles]

Running trains on carpet until I can get started on room layout tables. Running mainline with 027 type 72" curves. Since I have two Lionel SD80 MACs that require 42" curves, picked up a new 027 type 42" switch today. Installed [with insulating pins in correct places] and one in the center rail of the siding to allow parking the engines. Powered the siding from a jumper wire through a off/on switch. Ran the engines lashed together with a dummy in the middle [as I have been doing all the time]. Suddenly the rear engine uncoupled from the long line of hopper cars. Rear coupler was open on the engine. Tried over and over and it would do it at that switch. Then it started uncoupling from the cars at other places around the track. Suddenly the front engine uncoupled from the middle engine [a dummy] and took off. This went on for some time at various places on the track. Disconnected the controler. Still did it. Disconnected the siding. Still did it. Removed the switch and it stopped uncoupling and ran for sometime without any problems. Suggestions?????