O27 switches

[Anonymous]

Resurrecting '46/'47 Lionel No. 1431 O27 train set. Locomotive 1654 works fine-pulls 8/9/ cars. 1121 switches work also. Recently added 1122s work but derail locomotive. Must I use only 1121s w/ this locomotive? Interested in operating not collecting. Open to other makes/brands of switches. Where might I find a listing of postwar O27 gauge & S scale, 3 rail diesel engines? Tks.

[jwse30]

I think I know this one. Some older (prewar/ early postwar) 4 driver wheel steam engines had either too deep of flanges or too large of gears on the drive wheels. I'm not sure if the 1654 is one of them or not. I remember reading about this in CTT about a year or so ago. Anyhow, the larger part gets cought up on the pivoting "track" amd causes the train to derail. I thought that was a problem only with MPC era and newer O27 switches though.

Since Marx engines typically have the same problem on Lionel switches, maybe Marx switches will be friendlier to your engine? I'm hoping someone a bit more knowledgeable will chime in here, as I don't own a 1654 engine, nor do I own any Marx switches, and I'm not 100% certain what 1121 and 1122 switches are. I'm guessing they're postwar Lionel O27 switches and one is manual, and the other electric, but not certain.

As to listings for locomotives, are you looking for a reference/ price guide, or a for sale listing. If you're looking for a reference guide, Greenberg publishes a book on postwar Lionel rolling stock. It lists all the engines, cars, and motorized units made during that time, as well as prices from good to like new. I'll guess that they make one for American Flyer, and one for Marx as well. I don't know of any source for all them combined in one book. But I bought the Lionel book (and the MPC Lionel book), and I buy the pocket price guides about every other year.

Hope some of this helps,

J White

[Chris F]

1121 (prewar to 1951) turnouts were O-27 and remote control, but they lacked the non-derailing feature (which can be added). 1122 turnouts were introduced in 1952 with the non-derailing feature. However, they did not work well (I think due to the non-derailing design), and were replaced in 1953 with the 1122E turnouts.

Try activating the 1122 with a car rather than the locomotive. If the car derails, it's the switch; if not, it's the loco (probably the flange/gear issue).

I've got the Greenberg Postwar books, too. Also recommended is Standard Catalog of Lionel Trains, 1945-1969, by David Doyle. In addition to locos and rolling stock, it includes accessories and set information (e.g., the 1431 set included a 2452X PRR gondola, 2465 Sunoc tank car, and 2472 PRR metal caboose

For an on-line list of postwar diesels see

www.postwarlionel.com

[jimhaleyscomet]

K-line 027 switches are cheap ($15-$20 street price mail order), can run off separate transformer, and might be worth a try.

Jim H

[Anonymous]

I'm trying to bring some old Lionels from the family attic back to life, and I'm having problems getting the two switches (stamped "1122E") to work, and I'm hoping someone might know why.... The 2026 and 681 engines short out whenever they cross through the switch. The instructions with the train don't list these switches, so I connected them following the 220 switch instructions. There aren't any fiber pins, so I used short length of a cotton swab (perfect fit) but I'm not certain that I've got them placed correctly -- I used three; one at each connection on the "inside rail". There are no controllers, so there are no wires or power connected to the terminals. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

[Chris F]

Instructions for your 1122(E) switches can be found here:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/swt/st1122e1.pdf

I think the answer to your problem may be in the last paragraph on the first page (add spacer under the frog bushing).

BTW, the engines that could be derailed by the 1122 switches were those that used the "OM" motor such as Nos. 1664, 1665, 1984, and 1688 (from the 1122 instructions).

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Chris! The diagram was exactly what I needed. The pans definately rock and either short out or switch the engine into neutral. I also had the insulator pins set incorrectly, so at least now the train usually passes through. I'll try adding a washer to stabilize the pan.