I decided I would start a thread for the little semi-scale depot I’m building from stuff around the house. It will be based on the Nickel Plate Road and Cincinnati Northern junction depot in Latty Ohio, just a little north and west of Lima and Wapakoneta. Here’s a link to the website with the reference photo I’m using:
https://www.west2k.com/ohpix/latty.jpg
Obviously I’ll be using some artistic license and more than a little selective compression. But my main criteria are as follows:
1. Don’t spend money on the project unless absolutely necessary.
2. Make everything possible from scratch including doors, windows, siding and shingles.
3. Structure needs to occupy the same footprint as a Plasticville Suburban Station.
So, what materials do I have available? 65 pound cardstock, the heavy card backings from watercolor paper pads, craft sticks including tongue depressors, popsicle sticks and coffee stir sticks, a few dowels in various sizes, scraps of clear plastic from packaging and a few fiddly bits.
After drafting the main walls on the heavy card, I cut them out and then cut the window and door openings using a cutting wheel in my Dremel.
After taking a break to remove the Christmas tree from my living room, I started experimenting with the one piece of the model I have never done before: creating convincing dimensional siding from strips of cardstock. I went with 2 layers of 65 pound card and the overall effect is pretty good.
To do this I first measured 3 segments 1/8 of an inch wide and drew the lines. 1 for scoring, the next for placement of the next slat, and the third line for cutting. This allows an overlap from one slat to the next and will keep the entire section of siding connected.
This building will have 2 other completely different kinds of siding so I’ll keep you updated as I experiment with those. In case you’re wondering, it will most likely have grey walls, white trim and a green roof.
Same me, different spelling!
Oh, this is gonna be gooooood...
I agree.
Drawing up some siding. Going from left to right, a "board" is a fold under piece to be glued to the back side of the next 1/8" strip. Therefore the third strip just to the left of the darker (cut) lines is the double thick facing of the board.
If that makes sense
After lightly scoring the fold lines, I used a straight edge as a bending brake and pinched the fold along the metal edge:
Cut, folded and ready for gluing, the fate of the project comes down to this pile of paper:
Strips are 8 1/2" long so I only get 9 boards for this 3/4" wide wall.
I'm going to go ahead and call that part of the experiment a success. It has the sawtooth profile I want but not high enough to cause a problem with the trim pieces that will go on top of the siding.
On to the wainscoting:
The trim and paint should cover some imperfections
When paper gets this thick it can be sanded, carved otherwise cleaned up using almost the same techniques you would use with balsa.
Of course I don't actually HAVE to remove my gluey fingerprints from the walls. I could just say it's a new advanced weathering technique
The idea of painting a light color under the dark part and a dark shade under the white part was an attempt at creating grain texture and weathering. It worked mildly well under the white wainscoting but on the main part of the walls it didn't help.
So I've moved on to the window trims. The main trim pieces are 3 layers thick and the headers are 6 layers.
All measured and drawn individually of course.
Thanks for posting photos of your work! Very neat!
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
The lighter color under the darker color might work better if you thinned the darker paint some. The thinned darker color would not cover as well, maybe giving you the effect you are looking for.
Part of my problem is that I'm not 100% sold on the idea of weathering to begin with. Considering the fact that I won't weather the trains I'm going to have to tread the thin line between reality and toy. . So elements of both worlds are necessary.
It looks good on the wainscoting but the blue gray siding looks better with a full coat of paint:
The wall on top left faces the track. The blank areas are for the bay window. The next step is to measure, cut and install narrow strips of cardstock inside the window, door and transom openings. The window panes and doors will be separate pieces.
Have you ever heard of a balsa stripper? It is a tool to cut small stripes of balsa from a sheet. I was using mine to make 1/32" square stringers for stick and tissue airplanes I used to build.
They are adjustable for cutting width and use an Xacto knife blade. I'll bet it would be helpful for your current project.
After installing the doors I decided to go ahead and raise the building so now it's starting to look like something
This is my paper cutter. It's reasonably accurate but I still need to measure and draw the lines before I cut to make sure the blade actually goes in a straight line.
Another one of my favorite tools is a glue runner. It has a strip inside that drops little dots on the paper and makes large area laminations fast and easy.
Plotting the bay window.
Looking at the prototype photo, you'll see that the bay window wall extends all the way to the roof on the end of the depot, but has a flat roof on the side that faces the track.
Since I'm not too great at the math, how do I calculate the length of a wall section that's protruding at a 45 degree angle away from the wall to a point that's at a lower height than the end that connects to the flat wall?
Well I THINK I got it
Sure looks to me like you got it.
You get the width of the sides of the bay windows for the bay windows from the top view, and the height of the edges of the bay windows from the side view of the end of the building.
Looks great! Going to be cedar shingles?
I think I'm going to go with green rolled roofing. I'll do some experiments but I read about using masking tape as the roofing material and I'm going to give it a try on scrap. The masking tape I have leaves a lot to be desired so I'm not sure if it will even stick permanently let alone take the paint.
Basically I'm using a modified Nickel Plate paint scheme with a darker gray than what is considered "true NKP practice". At least compared to what I've seen in the NKPHTS Modeller's Notebook issues I downloaded from NKPHTS.org.
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