Solid or Stranded wire?

[pbjwilson]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I'm still in the dark regarding this. Is one better than the other for specific operations. I tend to use stranded wire for track feeders and solid for accessories. Any opinions?
I was told that stranded transmits better and cooler??????
I prefer solid for hooking up accessories because it's easier to bend and holds the bend. Thanks for your responses.

[Anonymous]

HI, Very timely ? I just returned from the train store & 2 hardware stores & all they had was stranded. I was looking for solid, it is so much easier to work with especially getting it through the holes on the TIU connectors & the older lockons. [:)]

[ChiefEagles]

Check out all your info [written and videos] and you will see stranded is recommended. I use nothing but stranded.

[spankybird]

All recommendations is to use stranded. I am not saying that you might get away with solid, but why test it.

tom

[Buckeye Riveter]

Boy I'm glad you guys went with stranded wire. [:D] I just came home with over $50.00 of stranded wire for my rewire and layout expansion. [8]

[jimhaleyscomet]

I use only solid and love it. It may not carry as much current but it is much easier to work with.

Jim H

[spankybird]

The true of the fact is most of my layout is done with solid wire. When I added DCS, I was ready to redo it with stranded, but I tried it first and it worked, so it sayed. I still have the big roll of stranded wire.

tom

[wrmcclellan]

Solid and stranded copper wire of the same American Wire Gage (AWG) size (circular mils of copper) carries the same current.

Stranded is easier to run and bend.

BTW - in terms of strict radio theory, solid wire is a better conveyor of high frequency signals. At the levels we work at it is irrelevant.

Regards,
Roy

[ben10ben]

Keep in mind that solid will break if it's bent around too much. It's fine for most applications, but, if working in a place that's going to involve the wire moving a lot, don't use anything but stranded.

[IRONROOSTER]

My understanding is that there is slightly less resistance and thus less voltage drop with solid vs stranded. But the difference isn't enough to worry about. I use solid wire 18awg and find it very easy to use and solder to the track. I think that what ever you find easiest to work with is the way to go.
Enjoy
Paul

[ChiefEagles]

Interesting to know that. I had been told it was the other way around.

[willpick]

I've used both on the same layout- solid for the buss lines, stranded for the feeder wires to the track and accessories. I've never had a problem using either[:)]

[Anonymous]

Stranded wire works best for me. It's more flexible and easier to work with. Many problems people experience with stranded wire are because there are many different kinds of coatings (insulation) on wire and some guys use a much to heavy gauge wire with a thick industrial insulation that is difficult to work with.
BillFromWayne
www.modeltrainjournal.com

[Chris F]

I used 14 gauge stranded for my bus lines and 18 gauge solid for my 12" track feeds. I didn't want to mess with stiff 14g solid, and I had better luck with solid wire to the bottom of GarGraves track.

Wires to my accessories are what happens to be available at the time (!). Anybody notice that the wires that Lionel is packing with recent accessories now is stranded with tinned ends rather than solid? The newer wire is larger, too.

[Anonymous]

In my opion stranded is the way to go. The heavier the gauge(the lower the wire number) the better off you'll be. Remember you can never go too big when it comes to wires as long as it's workable to your situation. I like 14 gauge because it is readily available in many different colors at auto parts stores. John

[3railguy]

I prefer solid core for buss wires because it holds its shape and doesn't tangle. It is also easier to strip the insulation back for T joints. For feeders, I prefer stranded because it flexes and pulls easier, and wraps around the buss wire easier.

Solid core AWG is slightly larger than stranded AWG so it will handle the same amperage. Voltage drop becomes a concern in runs over 50 feet and the easy thing to do is oversize it a gauge.

[Anonymous]

Hello: Solid wire is the better conductor, stranded is better for using crimp connectors, useing #12 is great for track feeders, A lot of good comment's on this topic. As a side note, How many operator's use a power bar with SURGE protection for the 110 volt side? Redhawk97 (30 years as an Electrical Contractor)

[AlanRail]

Either wire works in our applications:

But I do use stranded wire to get power and signal to the track from the TIU. All of my stranded wire connectors are crimped with an 0-connector instead of a spaded connector; I usually solder the wire to the crimped connect as well. ( A friend has advised on the probability of “bad” wire connections in multi-wire applications)

However, it is hard to use stranded wire from the AIUs to the Z switch machines.
As both the switch machines and AIUs use small screw-down connectors that will challenge a stranded wire.

Alan

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Redhawk97

Hello: Solid wire is the better conductor, stranded is better for using crimp connectors, useing #12 is great for track feeders, A lot of good comment's on this topic. As a side note, How many operator's use a power bar with SURGE protection for the 110 volt side? Redhawk97 (30 years as an Electrical Contractor)

I have always used a power bar with surge protection. The Lionel TMCC Manual suggests that you use a power bar in the Appendix. [^] And since, AEP can't keep the power flowing in Buckeye Land, [:(] it seems a very prudent piece of equipment to have in place.[:)]

Outside I have ground faults for the LGB layout.

QUOTE: Originally posted by wrmcclellan

Solid and stranded copper wire of the same American Wire Gage (AWG) size (circular mils of copper) carries the same current.

Stranded is easier to run and bend.

BTW - in terms of strict radio theory, solid wire is a better conveyor of high frequency signals. At the levels we work at it is irrelevant.

Regards,
Roy

If Roy says it is okay to use stranded, it's okay to use stranded. The guy knows his stuff.

[Anonymous]

The is another issue related to this topic that should be touched on, how big is your transformer, or how many amps can it deliver? Too light a wire and the wire solid or stranded becomes a fuse. If you are using a Lionel TPC 300/400 and you have 2 180 watt power houses, this is about 18 amps, then the primary distribution to your track needs to be 14 gauge or heavier. I use 14 gauge as the primary and 18 gauge feeders every 6 feet. On the 70 feet long track loops there is no power drop.

-ck

[laz 57]

Just rewired my layout as the manufacturers suggested stranded wire, 16 gauge.
laz57

[ChiefEagles]

Have always used a quality power bar with surge protector on all my electronics. Do the same for trains [DCS and TMCC].

[Anonymous]

How do you suggest connecting stranded wire to the TIU ? traditionel Lionel lockons ? Also what are buss lines ?

Thanks
ROZY

[ChiefEagles]

Rozy, you do not want to use buss lines. Use banana plugs from Radio Shack [other electronics suppliers have them too]. Then run your stranded wire #16 [I use #14] to a buss bar [where you can attach the ground and + from the TIU] and then run your wires to the track from that. DCS does not "like" a single line run the length of your layout with wires [soldered or atached] coming off of it going up to lockon [on new layout I will use MTH lockons] or soldered to the track [which I do now]. DCS likes for you to run your wires individually from that single buss bar to each lockon or soldered location.

[Anonymous]

Is a buss bar the same as a terminal block ?

[ChiefEagles]

10-4 ususally a long plastic bar with several screw downs to hold wires.

[Anonymous]

I am currently rewiring my layout and am using Stranded wire# 14 and # 16 for track. Using #16 or 18 for accessories depending on the distance.Use different colors for different uses and make yourself a color code chart that you can find. Sooner or later you will need it to refer to. Other than that just use common sense. Dont put in splices, unless absolutely necessary, and then only in a place that you will have access to. Put all connections in accessable locations. Radio shack has an item # 274-677 its a 12 position barrier strip. This can be used for a terminal bar or they can be cut off in twos and screwed down. They have a set screw that is recessed in plastic so if anything should touch it , there will be no problem. Do the best you can possibly do, even if it means spending a few extra bucks. Better safe than sorry, or crawling around under the layout trying to find a bad connection or a mistake you could have avoided. Thats my 2 cents, more like 20 or 30....Tim

[wrmcclellan]

Something I instigated and used on our club layout (as I got burned out a long time ago try to solder under the table) is to use wire nuts to secure the track feeders (dropped through the layout) to the stranded feeders underneath. We have DCS signal levels of 10 to most areas of the layout and some 9's.

I fed from the TIU (used crimp connectors on loop terminals) to Square D ground buss bars (from Home depot) with #16 stranded wire. Then we fed from the Sq D buss bars to another set of distribution buss bars with #10 solid copper (220 volt yellow jacket from HD - 4 conductors for two track circuits). Then we fed in a "star" pattern to the track feeders with more #16 stranded. The 8 - 10" track feeders are #18 or #20 solid copper (easier and less obvious when soldered to the side of the rails.

All feeder pairs (common and hot) are Ty Wrapped together (if they were not already jacketed together).

DCS radio signals like the two conductors to be close together for best RF propagation down the wire (think of the old roof mount TV antenna flat cable twin lead wire as an example). However - the use of the wire nuts does not interfere and they sure make life easier when you are troubleshooting. Also saves significant time attaching the wires over your head.

The wire nuts have been in place for over 3 years now and not a single failure (hey they work in your house wiring for decades!).

BTW - we also dropped common wires from BOTH outside rails (Atlas track) so we would have TMCC signal to both rails when possible (except where we use one outside rail for signal control).

Regards,
Roy

[ChiefEagles]

Hey Roy, sent you email. [:)]

[wrmcclellan]

Chief,

Back 'atcha. Let me know that you got it.