The Gargraves insulated rails work just fine for me. I have an 022 switch installed which developed a problem with the nonderail circuit internally, and I didn't want to take it up to solve the problem. It was easier to use my dremel to cut the running rail in two spots 3 inches apart and run a wire from the cut rail section to the appropriate binding post and everything worked fine. The wood ties insulate the one running rail from the other and you have a quick solution. Rail stays in gauge because it is held by the ties.
The "Questions & Answers" feature of the February issue has two questions from readers that might benefit from this article. One is looking for a 153C replacement that doesn't require "constant adjusting" for a 450 signal bridge. He's advised to use a relay. The other wants to repair or replace failed 153IR infrared controllers on a layout with unspecified accessories and Gargraves track, which he seems to think cannot be used for a control rail. He's advised to use reed switches and magnets. I would have thought that the insulating crossties would be ideal for a control rail, although I've never used Gargraves. Am I missing something?
Bob Nelson
My November CTT just came in the mail. In the "Questions & Answers" feature on page 21, John Castner asks for advice on wiring a number 140 dwarf signal to show whether any of 4 sidings on his layout is occupied. I think his question and my article, "The Kalmbach block-signal circuit", must have crossed in the mail. John, if you see this, please turn to page 54, to read my article, "The Kalmbach block-signal circuit", for a way to operate your signal without using a relay.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month