Thanks for the reply, let me rephrase what i said incase i didn't make it clear what was happening, When power is applied to the switch (center and side track) the switch would automatically switch to go straight. One of the two switching posts (wire binding post) when grounded would do nothing but the other would make the switch rapidly switch between go straight and turn. Note* switches are tested w/o any track connected.
I have been testing the switches induvdually outside of the track and thats where i found the problem, it is for a track in progress and none of the switches have been tested in the track. When power is applied to the switch and one of the two control posts is grounded aganst the track or the grounding post the switch goes back and fourth between turning and going straight, very fast too. When the cover is taken and power is applied to the track the solinoid is automatically pushing the rod out and when you go to push back it returns back, this isn't normal because i have a couple of the same model and year switches (i think) that don't do that. The solinoid plungers on the ones that aren't working (3) are red where as the solinoid plungers on the ones that are working (4) are white, i dont know if that has anything to do with it.
llsft I have problem with an old lionel 112 switch, when power is applied and i go to switch the direction of the switch the switch jitters back and fourth between the two directions. I have read other posts on this porblem but have not found a soloution, please help.
I have problem with an old lionel 112 switch, when power is applied and i go to switch the direction of the switch the switch jitters back and fourth between the two directions. I have read other posts on this porblem but have not found a soloution, please help.
As a general rule, the shorter two rails need to be insulated somewhere. Either right at the end of the switch or a length or so away. The wheels complete a ground circuit, making the switch throw. You have one side apparently working, the other, no. In a pinch a toothpick will work for a while to keep rails aligned. Unless you have the 1957 only version that depended upon weight of the engine to throw the switch. But yours says "112R" on the bottom, so electic throw.
I can't even remember the ast time I had a Super-0 switch in my hands. If there is a metal base, some thing could be shorted up against that rail.
"From 1957 until 1960 the left hand switch was sold under the No. 112-125 and the right hand under No. 112-150. In 1961 Lionel would change the numbers to 112-LH for the left hand switch and 112-RH for the right hand switch."
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