New to the hobby. Inherited a basic O27 Lionel set from 1953 (2037 loco), and have been slowly expanding (RW transformer, multiple switches, various accessories--all postwar) on temporary on-floor layouts, as I learn by doing.
Purchased a 145-54 Gateman (1951 model, I believe--no base-mounted light, matches this image exactly: https://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_145_acc.htm). Salesman also sold me a 153C contactor, rather than the more compatible 145C. Ran into wiring problems and am wondering whether the contactor is the issue. According to the relevant page from the Tandem Associates site, "The No. 153C could work with any accessory that used the No. 145C Contactor..." Assuming that's not the case, however, could using the 153C instead of the 145C be my problem (before getting into any other possible issues with the wiring configuration)? Here's what happens:
The second the Gateman is connected to the transformer with the throttle off, the light goes on, the man pops out, loud solenoid/plunger buzz--with no loco on the track yet, so no motion or weight-change over contactor. Altering placement of the contactor on track relative to distance from accessory makes no difference. Have also tried alternate track-power method using lockon, as well as experimenting with different transformer posts to keep voltage down: same result. Is it just that I have the wrong contactor, or am I doing something else wrong?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
153c is the correct one. IF YOU wired it right, then you MUST adjust the spring loaded knob untill the door closes and only the light remains on.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
LoweyLocos, welcome to the forum.
Although a 145C or 153C contactor can be used successfully with many accessories such as the 145-54 Gateman, they are somewhat finicky to adjust properly, in my opinion. I much prefer creating an isolated section of track that provides power to activate the door and gateman when a train is present on the isolated track. The attached link is just one of several that demonstrates the use of isolated track. You may find this a better approach to power your gateman.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEt4BZ1xtlU
swede
Thanks so much. I haven't attempted an insulated block section, but there's always a first time, right? Am I correct that in order to isolate a section of postwar tubular track, I'll need some fiber pins (which I don't currently possess)?
You can use round toothpicks, just make sure the rails don't touch. You can make insulated rails using electrical tape as the insulater.
aboard!
A thin bamboo barbecue skewer also makes a good track pin and you can cut up index cards or even the backs of greeting cards to make insulators if you don't have any tape.
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
Here is a link from CTT on making an insulated track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZV5vcd4EnA
Many thanks, gentlemen. This was extremely helpful.
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