what is the best way to replace 153C connectors?

[Anonymous]

what is the best way to make/replace 153C connectors to work with my fastrack? Do I have to buy the expensive infrared triggers??

[wrmcclellan]

mattk330,

My advice is to cut the outer rail (look underneath a track section for the best spot between a couple of the tabs that secure the rail (for stability). Do this a couple of sections apart so you have a 15-20 inch section of isolated rail. The way Fastrak works you cannot use insulating pins between sections.

I cannot remember - one of the other guys will chip in and help - you may also have to isolate the two outer rails from each other, so cut any connections underneath the sections where you want the isolated rail.

Now when a train crosses the isolated rail section - the wheels will connect the isolated rail to the opposite common rail. This gives you a "switch".

Now you can connect an accessory such as a crossing gate by connecting one terminal if the gate to the "hot" terminal on the transformer and the other lead to the isolated common rail. Now when the train goes by it completes the connection and the gate activates.

Regards,
Roy

I cannpt remember

[lionelsoni]

If you are using them for things like crossing gates, they can be replaced by simple isolated control rails. However, controlling the 153 block signal is more complicated, because the green light has to be turned off when the red light is turned on.

You can replace the 153C with a relay or a lamp. I recommend the lamp. See
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=-1&TOPIC_ID=26500&REPLY_ID=261523#261523
for all the details.

[jkerklo]

Lionel offers a "6-12029 Accessory Activator Pack" for operating trackside accessories as a train passes over the track. The product consists of two short track sections that have an outside rail cut and one straight section with the outside rails isolated and wires that connect to the center rail and the isolated outside rail. When a train passes over the isolated track section, train power appears at the wires.

Lionel also sells an "insulated" straight track section. It looks the same as a regular track section, except there is a white sticker with the word "insulated" stuck underneath.

Fastrack's plastic base naturally insulates outside rails. Regular track sections have a metal "bridge" across the outside rails. It is easy to remove the bridge to insulate the outside rails. Or, cut the bridge and use it to make wire connections. An outside rail can be isolated by using a Dremel cut-off wheel, or any other means, to cut the rail. There are numerous forum posts on how to do this.

Using an isolated outside rail to operate accessories is really the best way and is a real advantage of three-rail track. An illustration can be found on this web page:

www.three-rail.com/3ROAITR.HTM

John Kerklo
TCA 94-38455
www.Three-Rail.com

[Anonymous]

Wow! All great information! Thanks! Importantly for now I realize what is possible. I have some planning to do. John K, you have some interesting products. Even though my father is an EE, I'm an electronical dolt (I didn't get the gene). Simplification is key. I may contact you soon, John, to explore some of your controllers.

Thanks again, everyone!

Matt

[Anonymous]

One other strange thing....All of you above me who initially responded....I noticed your geographical locations:

-Roy from N. Texas, I was born and raised in Plano, TX.
-Bob N from Austin, I left Plano in '89 to attend UT in Austin, graduating in '93.
-John K from Denver, I moved from Austin in '96 and took a job transfer to Denver. I lived first in Englewood, then Frederick/Firestone (took job in Ft. Collins) and then moved to Longmont (job in Boulder). I just recently moved to KC this past summer (job again).

Very wierd...does anyone in KC care to respond? Ha! Thanks again, guys!

[wrmcclellan]

Hi mattk330,

I live in Richardson. Small world as always.

Regards,
Roy