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Glue die -cast

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 8, 2005 7:57 PM
I have had the best luck with JB Weld (slow setting kind).
If the items to be glued are going to be stress related, I dill a .030 hole in each part and then put in a .030 brass rod along with the glue. The rod will make the joint harder than original as it will resist the bending breakage that the rock hard epoxy tends to do.
I wanted to put a coil coupler on my 3rd rail GN 4-8-4 but they had the regular coupler and bracket backwards from lionel. ( has been corrected now).
I used my dremel and made a nice straight cut and reversed the mtg with the brass rod inside. I works like a dream now Dave.
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Posted by spankybird on Friday, January 7, 2005 9:27 PM
I have used a “Super Glue – Cyanoacrylate Adhesive” that I pick up at our local hobby store.

I have had great success gluing many different things with this.

tom

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Posted by wrmcclellan on Friday, January 7, 2005 8:43 PM
If you decide to replace it, in my experience, Williams has been excellent (and reasonable) to deal with for replacement parts.

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Roy

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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, January 7, 2005 8:40 PM
W, it sounds like you're saying you broke the transom of, I assume, an unpowered truck. If that is the case, the break is out of sight and has plenty of room around it. So, if replacing the truck is an unattractive alternative, you might consider sistering a heavy brass plate or bar under the transom and bolting them together, or tapping one or the other and screwing them together. This is the sort of repair you might as well try, since, if it fails, you are no worse off than before.

By the way, does your member name have any connection to the Bob and Ray character, Wally Ballou?

Bob Nelson

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Posted by dougdagrump on Friday, January 7, 2005 12:51 PM
IMHO replacing the truck sounds like a much better idea than trying to glue/epoxy. They tend to take much more abuse then say a piece that you might classify as decorative.

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Posted by laz 57 on Friday, January 7, 2005 10:41 AM
I have used regular epoxy the kind you have to mix with the hardener. I glued the cow catcher on the front of a starter set Atlantic by Lionel and after 7years it still is there.
Laz 57
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 7, 2005 7:38 AM
I have a die cast truck on an engine that is broken in half where the left side is joined to the right side. Maybe I should just replace the truck? It's a Wiiliams engine.
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Posted by spankybird on Friday, January 7, 2005 5:43 AM
I have a glue at home that work very well, but you will have to wait until I get home to night to see what the name is.

I am a person with a very active inner child. This is why my wife loves me so. Willoughby, Ohio - the home of the CP & E RR. OTTS Founder www.spankybird.shutterfly.com 

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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, January 6, 2005 9:43 PM
I repaired a broken flange on a zinc locomotive driver with cyanoacrylate (super glue). I used a lot of pressure to fit the chip back into place as exactly as possible. So far, so good.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Thursday, January 6, 2005 9:35 PM
As Doug says, depends. I have used some Marine Epoxy with great sucess. Slow to set but hared as a rock when it does. Waterproof and oil proof so far. Withstands heat good too. Good heat will make most epoxies turn a loose.

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Posted by dougdagrump on Thursday, January 6, 2005 8:43 PM
[#welcome]
I would imagine it depends on what you are trying to bond/repair. Can you provide a little more info?

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Glue die -cast
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 6, 2005 8:32 PM
Can die cast parts be glued or epoxied together. What should Iuse to stick the parts together and will it be a strong, long lasting bond?

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