It was all working great then...

[Buckeye Riveter]

If you can paint foam or plaster mud brown and then sprinkle on different colors of grass, you will do fine.on scenery. [:)]

[Anonymous]

That is really beautiful.

Once I get the technical train and track stuff accomplished I will to move on to creating scenerey. That will be the hard part for me. I have no artistic ability at all.

[Buckeye Riveter]

Bosgood, here is another photo of the layout. You can easily see the MTH Track. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not in love with RealTrax, but for what I was going to do and how I was going to do it, the stuff works beautifully. My whole layout is foam, so I wanted a track that would "spread the load"


If I did it again, I most likely would use Atlas or Gargraves and paint areas that the track was going be laid with a glue water mixture to spread the load. You can see some of the pink foam in the unfinished road area at the bottom left.[:D]

[lionelsoni]

NM-B 14-2 WG building wire is probably the cheapest you will find, and heavy enough for any transformer (except perhaps Daan's).

[Anonymous]

Wow that layout is amazing buckeye! I really appreciate all the advice. I will post later on today and let you know what I have found.

Once I fini***his piece of the puzzle I am on to building the tunnel! I will be looking for some advice on how to do that.

Thanks again,

Bruce

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bosgood

2 lockons

one in one corner an one in the opposite... the suspect piece is very close to the main lock on.

Bosgood,
My whole layout is built with MTH RealTrax. See photo below.

After using the track for four plus years, I was asked by another member of the forum to give you my [2c].

My layout has about 100 feet of MTH track. I have had the dead spot problem too, but because I use 8 lock-ons that alternate from right side to left side of track, the dead spot was not found until I used a meter. I would suggest you add two more lock-ons to your layout with 16 g or 14 g wire as the connection from the main power sources. (Did you know you can buy good wire at auto parts stores for trains?) The wires can be hidden in the back of your shelf and held in place with Duct Tape.

Also, Jim Duda, from my experience is right on target. I had a piece of track at the end of a bridge that under load, disconnects.

I haven't heard if your track is being held in place with screws, but I would certainly recommend it or at a minimum the RealTrax U-Shaped connectors.

After busting a few of the track's electrical connectors, I have found the best way to put the track together is to shove it together on a flat surface then turn it over and see if everything is connected correctly.

If you have a black center rail, use a eraser to remove the black coating. It dirties the connections.

The worst problem to find is where the rail has separated from the connector. If that happens, take the track back to the dealer and they will give you a new piece.

Have fun [:D]

[3railguy]

QUOTE: Don't Drink and Drive in 2005!
Wear a helmet!

LMAO!

[jimhaleyscomet]

With realtrax i keep a short wire handy to jump across track piece connections. Usually it is the center rail connection between two pieces of track. Once I find the problem I then fix it by sticking in a wire on both sides of the joint. (above track or below track) anywhere I can squese in a wire that will conduct with the rails on both sides.

I second the opinion that you probabbly have two bad connections (perhaps on the same piece) or on two pieces in a row. Once again a wire touched to both sides of a rail center to center or outside to outside (NOT CENTER TO OUTSIDE) should show you the problem.

Jim H

[ChiefEagles]

I think that the "Old Man" [Jim Duda] hit it. The bridge needs support. All the other suggestions are right on too. One good thing about this forum, the more heads you get working on the problem, the better the solution.

[Anonymous]

Lionelsoni,

I am going to do that techinique also. This way I will know they are all good before finishing screwing them all down.

[Anonymous]

Ran it clock wise stops as soon as the loco hits the track piece.

Ran it back ward, and passenger cars flickered and when the engine hit the track piece engine went down.

I held the board just to the left of the bridge up a touch...... No problem. Looks like i need to add some support closer to the bridge.

Thanks Guys.

[lionelsoni]

There must be at least two open circuits, since the track is a loop. I would put a lighted car, if you have one, on the bad section and try shorting across all of the rail joints with a screwdriver tip to find which joints are bad. Otherwise, you might miss one. It would still run, but be one open joint closer to the next failure.

[Jim Duda]

Since the bridge appears to be unsupported and your train looks to be running in a CCW direction, it is possible the bridge and track flexes under the loco's weight just enough to cause those spring clips to lose contact. Before I'd go much further, try running it in reverse and see where the loco stops. My guess is it will stop on the bridge...

You've piqued our interest - let us know the solution.

[mcattardo]

Like the layout. The jumper is to make sure that piece of track is getting power. If it is getting power, try bending the tab on on side of that piece of track, to interupt power so the dcs signal isn't confusing the engine. If you have another accesory not being used, like a light, try connecting it directly to the section in question to see if it works. You can just touch the hookup wires to the rails, one to the center & one to an outside rail to check for power.

[willpick]

Niel has probably nailed your problem-- the copper spring contacts that transfer power from one section to the next can weaken and then not make contact. The odd thing is that one whole section has no power. I will suggest that you remove the suspect section and widen the contacts on both ends so that when you reinstall it, it makes contact with the rest of the track. HTH

[Anonymous]

Cheif,

The solution that includes sodering the jumper....

I dont know what that means.... I am a bit of a neophyte.

BTW thanks to ALL who offer the imput. I would not have gotten this far without help from this board.





The suspect track is just to the left of the bridge above

[Anonymous]

The layout is one big circle no switches.

[Anonymous]

No, the circuit breaker does not pop and the accessories that rely on track power continue to operate. If i pu***he loco to the next track section it powers back up.

[mcattardo]

I'm not familiar with realtrax, but it sounds like it's a bad connection.
When the train dies does the transformer shut off? That would be a short circuit.
Does the transformer have a circuit breaker?
If the transformer stays on it's an open circuit (no connection).
A little more info would be helpful (meaning short or open circuit).

[ChiefEagles]

One of two things to try. 1. solder a + jumper to the center contact underneith. If that does not work, remove it and bend the contact [only one] for center rail to make it not make contact with other joint. A guy who claims to be the "expert" on DCS and etc. says you need to insulate your sections between "lockons". Train is getting signal form both dirrections. I think that is not so. I have not experienced thsi problem. Worth a try. Think there are some Realtraz guys here that might know more than me. I'll email them for a heads up. Good luck. OH, be sure track is kept clean.

[nblum]

Realtrax can develop intermittent or ongoing problems with contact between the copper "fingers" that transfer power from section to section. I'd first check that the section where the loco dies has its copper fingers bent in such a way that they make maximal forceful contact with the fingers on the adjacent track sections. Sounds like this simple fix might well work in your situation since it appears that one track section is not conducting properly.

[Anonymous]

2 lockons

one in one corner an one in the opposite... the suspect piece is very close to the main lock on.

[ChiefEagles]

Track connection. Do you have several "lockons" around the track?

[Anonymous]

I finally finished my sons trian layout 44 ft from track houses rr crossing gates bridge, tunnel.. worked great for a couple of days.

Then one piece of track goes dead. when the train hits it it dies. I am using all MTH real trax, and an mth proto 2 engine.

Where do i start trouble shooting this?