Wiring Accessories for dummy

[Anonymous]

Got a long way to go but we are so excited about how it looks so far. (our first effort for a layout other than on the carpet)

Not bad for the room of a 5 year old!

Thanks again for all the help!

[Anonymous]

[Anonymous]

Ok lets see if this works

[Anonymous]

Hey guys, a quick update. I have the bridge working and one crossing gate and ran out of light and patience. The wires on the accessories are very delicate and short. I added wire, but splicing the wire is a bear. The first time i soldered them and had bad luck with that the second time i used wire nuts that seemed to work better, although i an not a big fan of wire nuts.

Bottom line is that everyting works and now, and my son is thrilled. Ineed to wire one more gate, and clean things up. I am working on posting pics but poor lighting this evening. I am off on thrusday and will get to take some daytime pics.

thanks again

[Buckeye Riveter]

I forgot to mention that you need to alternate the lock-ons. If you only use one lock on, only one outside rail and the center rail are powered. The other outside rail is dead.

[Anonymous]

The slow down is very slight, but can be noticed at slow speed.

I am very excited to be going home armed with all this new informaion. I printed the tutorial on posting pics and will get some up very soon!

[Buckeye Riveter]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bosgood

Oh perfect !I just got back from the train store near my office where i bought a second lock on to power the crossing gates.

I will place that one on the opposite side which is only a couple of feet from where the gates will be. I will run wire from original lockon to this one, and wire the gates to this lock on.

When i was running the train last night it slowed a little bit on the opposite side of the room. Is this operation to counter act this effect?

Bosgood, MTH RealTrax is notorious for power dropping on long runs. CTT did an evaluation of track and this was documented. To counteract the poor conductivity, I was advised by my MTH dealer to place a lock-on about every 8 feet. I don't get the slow down that you are describing although I run over 60 feet of track. (You really don't need to use the MTH lock-on but can wire the tabs on the bottom and I think there was a posting somewhere with photos on how to do that too.)

Have fun and post some photos. [:D] [8D]

[willpick]

Yes! I forgot to ask if the engine was slowing down when it got to the opposite side[:)]. post back your results after you get it wired-- I usually check the forum every couple of hours or so when i'm off from work---

[Anonymous]

Oh perfect !I just got back from the train store near my office where i bought a second lock on to power the crossing gates.

I will place that one on the opposite side which is only a couple of feet from where the gates will be. I will run wire from original lockon to this one, and wire the gates to this lock on.

When i was running the train last night it slowed a little bit on the opposite side of the room. Is this operation to counter act this effect?

[willpick]

Yes. Since you are using the MTH lockon, you can just connect the wire to the binding posts of the original lockon, then run the cable along the side of the track to the other lockon. You can tape the cord down with masking tape to keep it neat.

[Anonymous]

Willpick, I am not completely sure that i totally understood that one. Are you saying I should connect power to the track in 2 places? Can i simply splice into the "Bananna clip" harness and run the cable around the shelf to the opposite side?

Thanks so much for your very informative replies. This is HUGE help!

[willpick]

Yes, Bruce, there is a limit to how many accessories you can power from the track. Most of the MTH trackside signals use very little power as the lights are LED's, not incandesant bulbs. Your 75 watt transformer is good enough for what you have now, but if you have a passenger train with more than 4 or 5 cars, you would be at the limit of the Z750.

I know that it's hard to get power up to the track if it's 7 ft overhead, but I do think that you should run a power connection to the track at the point furthest from where you have the Z750 plugged into the track. 22 ft of 16 ga paired zip wire(extension cord) or speaker wire will be sufficient. HTH!

[Anonymous]

Thanks so much! I am off to buy the additional lock on.

I am using the ITAD that cips into the Real trax knock out section.

Can I assume you can run other accesories off the track like this? If so i imagine there is a limit.

The train has about 44 linear feet of track, one of the Steel Arch bridge with a light, and 2 crossing gates. It is run with Z750 controller. how many accessories do you think I can run without needing separate accessory power.

The track is about 7 feet off the floor so getting power up there is a challenge.

Thanks again I will post pictures of it when we have the accessories up. We have been working hard on it, and while not nearly as elaborate as some we are very excited about it.

[willpick]

Bruce, yes, since you are using realtrax, you can use the lockon(40-1003) to supply power to the 11012 gates. Just pick the next track piece , break open the lockon slot, and insert the lockon.
Which ITAD are you using? If you are using the one that plugs into the Realtrax, then you should follow the wiring diagram that is on the back of the crossing gates insert.

If you are using the Scaletrax ITAD, then you cannot use track power. you must use accessory power for the Scaletrax ITAD. The wiring of the gate to the ITAD, is the same as with the other (realtrax) ITAD. Hope this helps, and welcome to the hobby!

[Anonymous]

Can I add a "lock on" to the track closer to the crossing gates? Rather than running all that wire along the wall?

[spankybird]

The ITAD is used to only trigger the gate. The gate needs power from either the track or accessory output of the transformer.

[Anonymous]

I am working on my sons train layout that runs on a shelf around his room. I have been working on it since Christmas day, and last night I had it running. It is so cool. Any who. I need some help wiring crossing gates.

I am using MTH Real Trax, MTH operating crossing gates 30-11012, and the ITAD activation device. I am not clear if the gates get power from the ITAD or the lock on. It appears that you have a choice, but there is only one wiring diagram. It would be easier to get the power from the track because the lock on is 18' away from the gates. What is the easiest way, and what it the best way as these things are often mutually exclusive. A Z 750 controller provides the power.

Thanks for your help!

Bruce