Lionel 249E disassembly

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  • Member since
    May, 2018
  • 6 posts
Lionel 249E disassembly
Posted by Bill99 on Friday, May 04, 2018 9:29 PM

Basic question: How do I remove the drive unit from the boiler assembly of my 249E?  I’ve done this with some postwar models, but this is my first prewar and for the life of me I can’t figure it out.  There is nothing to remove from the side and top like the postwar.  I guess I could start removing every screw I see, but I’m afraid I might not be the best idea. 

Tags: Lionel 249E
  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: Parma Heights Ohio
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Posted by Penny Trains on Monday, May 07, 2018 7:04 PM

Welcome aboard!

I don't own a 249E, but I do have a 259:

Most prewar motors engage the boiler by having 2 grooves cut into the motor side frames that slide into a flat metal piece hidden behind the steam chests:

The two pieces of the motor frame angle up to meet the bar that holds the front end in place.

There's also one screw or bolt above the rear truck:

You'll probably need to remove the rear truck, the two side rod screws that attach the rods to the rear drivers and the screw or nut at the rear frame attachment point to get the motor out.

Becky

A waking Lithium Flower just about to bloom

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Posted by Bill99 on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 11:23 AM
Thanks, Becky.
Mine looks a little different.  The front does not angle. It’s vertical and does not seem to be touching anything.  The rear looks like it has slots in the motor case which, if I could move it forward, may free it, but I don’t know how to do that, and I can’t figure out what is holding the front. The two screws in the rear may be the key.  I loosened them, and they didn’t move when I wiggled the motor.  That makes me think they are not holding the motor case. We had a saying at work “If you don’t know what it does, don’t mess with it”, so I’m holding off in removing those screws.  I should remove them though.  I don’t see anything else to remove that could be holding the case in place.
I have pictures to support the above description, but after 15 minutes of trying to insert them I gave up.
Bill
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Posted by Bill99 on Wednesday, May 09, 2018 2:56 PM

I think I now know how to insert pictures.  Here they are.Front Truck RemovedRear Truck Removed

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Posted by Bill99 on Wednesday, May 09, 2018 4:10 PM

So I'm learning how to use this forum and to use Flickr at the same time.  Not working well so far.  I don't think my pictures posted, so I'm trying again.

Front Truck RemovedRear Truck Removed

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Posted by David1005 on Thursday, May 10, 2018 2:01 AM

Did you look for a screw in the smoke stack?

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Posted by Bill99 on Thursday, May 10, 2018 12:50 PM

I did.  I removed it and nothing freed-up.  It's a short screw, about 1/4" long.  I guess I'll wait to see if there are other sugestions, and if none, I'll start removing screws starting with smoke stack then steam chest then those two at the rear.

Thanks!

  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: Parma Heights Ohio
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Posted by Penny Trains on Thursday, May 10, 2018 6:19 PM

Try the one in the steam chest first.  My guess is that the two under the cab probably hold the bachead in place since there are slots in the motor frame that lock onto the cab floor.

A waking Lithium Flower just about to bloom

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Posted by Bill99 on Saturday, May 12, 2018 10:15 AM
Success!  It turns out the smokestack screw and the two screws under the cab held the boiler to the lower frame (purple arrows).  The two screws under the cab held the boiler so firmly, that just taking the smokestack screw out had no effect, but when I removed the cab screws, the boiler came right off.  Removing the boiler revealed a screw on either side of the frame (red arrow) attaching the motor.
The e unit was not working (the main reason for all of this), but when I cleaned it with contact cleaner and put a tiny drop of oil on the drum shaft, it is much improved.  It can still be a little cantankerous, but I can always get it to work in both directions.  It looks like part of the drum is pitted, but once it rotates past that section it will go forward, reverse and neutral.  think I’ll just keep it in forward.  I rarely use reverse.  I polished the armature and refurbished the brushes.  Hopefully it will still run well after I get it back together again.  Two interesting findings:  When I removed the steam chest, one of the indexing posts broke off, or was already broken (yellow arrow).  Apparently, the casting is very brittle.  I’m not too worried about it being broken; the remaining post and the mounting screw will keep it aligned.  Also, the screws holding the motor to the boiler frame were very loose (I wondered why the motor was sloppy).  Maybe that was done purposely because tightening the screws could snap off the lugs.   Just to be safe, I’ll only turn them until I feel a slight resistance.

Tags: Prewar 249E

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