My 2018 has a punched-in pin, although I wouldn't say they all do.
Just look before you leap.
Some engines like the 2035 have pins that are threaded in; others like the 2026 have pins that are punched in. The threaded pins would have a screwdriver slot in them and be easy to identify.
Larry
You should not have to punch it out, most likely it unscrews. Please advise the model number of the engine so we can be sure.
CAREFUL many of those pins unscrew first THEN you punch out the rest of the way. Check the pin for a screwdriver slot BEFORE you punch.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
That motor mounting pin needs to be punched out with an appropriate size punch and a hammer. Look carefully at both ends of the pin and you will notice that one end is splined. That is the end that you hit with the punch until it clears the boiler. Then you just pull it out from the reverse side.
Installation is the reverse. Hit the free end of the pin until the splines engage the hole in the boiler.
Usually out-of-gauge wheels are the cause for derailment.
Check the axles on the front truck that they are not bent. Also measure the gauge of the wheels and compare with the rear truck wheels. Make sure they are not too close or too far apart.
Richard Ward...Incidentally, I had to take the pilot wheels off the front years ago because they continuously jumped the track. is there a fix for that?
lionelsoni What I have in mind I have mentioned on the forum before: Many if not all Lionel locomotives with 2-wheel pilot trucks have a steering-geometry error that causes them to oversteer, so that the axle is not perpendicular to the rails and the wheels are aimed too far to the inside of the curve and, in my experience, are likely to climb the rail if given the chance. When I have brought this up before, others have insisted that Lionel could not have made such a mistake and that any problems must be due to improper gauge, rough or unlevel track, insufficient spring pressure on the truck, and so on, and that they cured their derailments by fixing those things. I am sure that getting everything else right helps and can very likely cure a particular derailment problem. That however does not prove that proper steering is unimportant. I have had a Korean-war 2026 since I was in high school. It derailed so stubbornly that I finally just took the front truck off the locomotive, until a few years ago when I figured out the oversteering problem. Then I lengthened the tongue of the truck to correct the geometry and found that the problem was solved. If that is the problem with your locomotives, the modification can probably be done in a way that is reversible. All that is needed is to move the pivot point farther back on the locomotive frame.
What I have in mind I have mentioned on the forum before: Many if not all Lionel locomotives with 2-wheel pilot trucks have a steering-geometry error that causes them to oversteer, so that the axle is not perpendicular to the rails and the wheels are aimed too far to the inside of the curve and, in my experience, are likely to climb the rail if given the chance.
When I have brought this up before, others have insisted that Lionel could not have made such a mistake and that any problems must be due to improper gauge, rough or unlevel track, insufficient spring pressure on the truck, and so on, and that they cured their derailments by fixing those things. I am sure that getting everything else right helps and can very likely cure a particular derailment problem. That however does not prove that proper steering is unimportant.
I have had a Korean-war 2026 since I was in high school. It derailed so stubbornly that I finally just took the front truck off the locomotive, until a few years ago when I figured out the oversteering problem. Then I lengthened the tongue of the truck to correct the geometry and found that the problem was solved. If that is the problem with your locomotives, the modification can probably be done in a way that is reversible. All that is needed is to move the pivot point farther back on the locomotive frame.
Rob
I have a ca. 1957 Lionel 2-6-4 that I would like to clean and oil, but I can't figure out how to get to the motor. I have taken off all of the screws in the front, including the one on top of the boiler, but there is a long bar in the back that goes through notches, and I can't pivot the front of the motor low enough to be able to pull it out. Is that back bar supposed to come out as well? How?
Incidentally, I had to take the pilot wheels off the front years ago because they continuously jumped the track. is there a fix for that?
I'm sure this has been discussed many times, but I can't figure out how to search old threads.
Thanks
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