I only recently started my first O scale layout with a 4x8 oval, and even more recently added a simple run-around track with 022 turnouts I acquired at a local show. I opened them up, checked all the connections and cleaned what I could, and when I installed them on my layout with metal pins in all rails they worked fine. After learning about the non-derailing feature, I put insulating pins in the two rails of each turnout per the instructions. Also, in order to block off power to the runaround track, I put insulating pins in all three rails on both ends (between the track and the divergent branches of switches) and added a powered Lockon with an SPST switch. But now there is no power to the main track between the turnouts. What am I doing wrong?
This car stops at ALL railroad crossings!
How do you have the wires run? Each section that has insluating pins needs to have a hot wire(controlled or non controlled) and neutral wire supplied to it in order to work correctly. You must supply power to the turned out section of any switch; whether power form the switched track or use a seperate power lockon to the section of track to be controlled.
I have a couple of post war 022 switches and you put the insulating pin on one side of the track(must be in same place for both insulating pins; outside or inside rail). On the 022 switch the center wire on the switch controller is wired to the center wire of the switch housing and the other 2 wire nuts are for direction.
With 027 switches you wire the switch control differently then with the 022 switch.
Lee Fritz
Well, I've given up the isolated run-around idea, so my questions on 022 issues are now running into a new direction. I have a couple of switches that will move in only one direction when I use the controller. I have cleaned them thoroughly inside and out and applied oil or graphite in relevant spots to ensure they slide smoothly. Anyone else with this problem and did you solve it?
Are you using an 022C controller? How is your controller wired to the turnout?
Bob Nelson
NNJRailfan Well, I've given up the isolated run-around idea, so my questions on 022 issues are now running into a new direction. I have a couple of switches that will move in only one direction when I use the controller. I have cleaned them thoroughly inside and out and applied oil or graphite in relevant spots to ensure they slide smoothly. Anyone else with this problem and did you solve it?
How do you have the swicth wired? The center wire on the switch on the post war 022 is the common for the switch control and each outside terminal is the one that throws the solenoid which controls the track piece. And are you using O gauge switch control with and not an 027 switch control, they(O & 027 controls) work differently.
Lee
Maybe I missed mention of the Fixed Voltage Plug while reading through the posts; if it’s being used or not—may be another circuit to troubleshoot.I also recall reading a great synopsis of operation and service of these switches right here in the CTT Forum.If the Fixed Voltage Plug has been in place for a long time, the contact spring can lose some tension and not make contact when the plug is removed.A lot of helpful information about this switch (and all things manufactured by Lionel from 1945 through 1969) can be found in Greenberg’s Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains.When introduced, these 022’s were quite the marvel of engineering. They do need periodic cleaning and maintenance, sometimes gremlins can pop up…and most of the time the cause is a short from wear or accident, like someone stepping on a switch used on a floor layout.
Thanks For all of your comments. I will look for a copy of Greenberg. to answer the many questions, I am not using the fixed voltage plug, and have ensured all the contacts are clean. I havent noticed any bare wires that could cause a short circuit. I've used the vintage O controllers, but have also used a short wire to make contact between the posts on the switch. I've also used the powered wires from the transformer to make direct contact with the electrical pickups on the sliding plate inside the switch itself. Sometimes the switch moves partway in either direction, , other times it will move all the way to the divergent route but not the straight route.
Have you tested the solenoid to make sure it throws all the way in either direction? You may need to take the rod out of the solenoid and see if it is dirty and then clean it and re-insert it with a light amount of oil.
Are you sure that you are using enough voltage? The Lionel service manual says to test it at 12 to 14 volts. Are you able to make the turnout operate reliably at that or some other higher voltage?
I am using full track voltage to test it (transformer handle turned to maximum). As I played with it further I discovered that I do get full, sharp movement when I apply one transformer wire to the silver-colored metal plates that are in contact with the slider and the other transformer wire to the brass-colored plates in-between. My next step is to replace the wire that runs between the post and the contact plates. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
If anyone is wondering why I'm bothering with all this effort for one old switch, tinkering with vintage components to bring them back to life is one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Or maybe it's just an exercise in procrastination - my kids keep asking me "are you ever going to finish that thing?"
I wrote a post a few years ago about fixing 022 switches: 022/711 switch operating pblms. Look for it with Google.
You most likely have a problem with the sliding contacts. You can bend the moving contact so that it makes better contact with the stationary contact. Use an Xacto knife and slip it under the moving contact near the rivit that holds the contact in place. Gently pry the contact up and while it is up, bend it down near the dull edge of the knife.
Servoguy,
I'll look for your post. I tried your suggestion already, and I soldered in a new wire from the non-acting post to the contact but neither worked. I looked at the section of Greenberg on 022 switches, but it only suggested the same thing as you. So, it looks like this switch will serve out its useful life as a manual switch.
Aggravatingly, no diagrams I've seen anywhere show the part with the brass-colored contacts under the slider, even though one of the powered wires is soldered to it. But if I can find a old, abused non-working switch machine at a train show, you can be pretty sure I'm gonna rip that thing apart and figure it out!
The switch wiring is very simple. The two posts that control the switch are wired to the sliding switches. The other sides of the two sliding switches are wired to the coils. The spring contact that brings brings power from the center rail is wired to the spring where the constant voltage plug is. The post of the constant voltage plug is wired to each of the coils. If you have a meter, check continuity with the switch in both positions. In each position, there should be continuity from one of the posts to the constant voltage plug, and there should not be continuity from the other post to the constant voltage plug.
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