Foam layout board? February Issue Master builder

[lionelbob]

I think that the article states to use only the foam.  If you lay the foam on a couple of two by four frames, it is a no go situation.  If he had mentioned placing the foam board on top of plywood, maybe that would be strong enough.  Personally, I'll stick to plywood and carpet, for a toy train layout.

 

[Anonymous]

I built my first O guage layout with foam over 1/2" plywood (you do have to drill this).  You could walk on it if you needed to, but you didnt because none of it was more than arms reach from where you were standing.  I had exactly 0 issues with overheating components (I used Ross Custom Switches and Z-1000 switch machines).   The only problem I had was 1 burnt pushbutton controller due to me shorting it with my own finger.  The rest performed flawlessly (I screwed them to a piece of plywood after I shorted one out).  I used 2" blue foam and Woodland scenics foam risers under the track, with foam subroadbed. 

That having been said, I had a master off switch (standard light switch) right next to the power pack to kill power if there ever was an issue.  I also had a fire extinguisher near by. 

De-railments themselves dont cause fires, shoddy layout wiring, resulting in high resistance connections that fail to trip the circuit breakers in UL listed hobby transformers is what cause layout fires, and the danger exists no matter what surface you place your track on. 

Here is a link to the MSDS sheet for Dow foam board:

http://www.tectum.com/MSDS/MSDS_DOW_Styrofoam_2.0_The_DOW_Chemical_Company.pdf

The melting point is between 194 F and 266 F. 

[Firelock76]

I don't know if this stuff is available commercially, but...

I was at a UPS store the other day and they had some foam board packing material, a 4x8 sheet (approximately) laying on the floor.  They cut it to size and use it as gap-filler and padding. I twisted myself to walk around it but the UPS staffer told me "It's OK, just walk on it, it'll be fine."

So it was, and was I surprised!  This stuff was as dense as wood paneling.  I don't need any of it (at least right now) but if you folks are looking for a foam board base for your layouts you may want to stop by a UPS store and see if they'll sell you some.  Sorry, don't know what it costs.

[rtraincollector]

pennsyelectrics

One poster claimed that a few coats of paint would solve that problem.

FWIW

Bob

 

Don't know, but I would think that would defeat the purpose of the foam board as your creating another barrier for the noise of the trains to echo/bounce off of. 

I know Me thinking is a dangerous thing also 

[pennsyelectrics]

I didn't read the article; but every time I see a posting about foam board I cringe.

I am surprised that Peter would write the article without a caution about the danger of fire. I remember that this was even addressed at one time in the help section of CTT.

In certain circumstances a detrailment, errant switch motor, uncoulpling magnet energized too long; or any other source of heat could cause the foam to melt and ignite. There were reports of losing whole layouts and/ or trainrooms. One poster claimed that a few coats of paint would solve that problem.

FWIW

Bob

[BILLYBOBBOY42]

I agree with you on holes in foam board. My Christmas layout is on 4" thick foamboard. Even using a drill, pushing wires thru the holes can be daunting. I often had to make the holes larger than i wanted just so I could save time and get them fed thru

[Buckeye Riveter]

 

My permanent layout with 200' feet of track was completely build on 2" foam.  It is now 15 year old and there have been zero problems.  There are many many pictures of the layout already posted on this forum.  Just search: "Buckeye foam bench work" and some of them should pop up.

 

As to pushing wire through the foam it is really simple.  I use an extra-long 1/4" drill bit and make the hole.  The wires go right down the hole and then are connected to the appropriate power source below.  I have on occasion used a bent coat hanger to push/pull the wires down my double deck areas.  Again, no big deal.  Simple, simple, simple.  Been there, done that! No conjecture.

 

As to getting derailed cars and I've had my share, I have a "extended" claw that you buy at Home Depot and an area where there is a hidden hole below the bottom deck that I can reach through.  Needless to say I never have had an instance where I needed to crawl on the layout because it would mess up the scenery.

 

[BigAl 956]

I have taken to using foam or fibreboard over OSB. Foamboard and plywood has gotten too expensive and, as stateted, foam by itself is not strong enough to use on a permanent layout. 

[EIS2]

I had the same concerns about using foam.  Unless the layoutt has lots of access panels, or the layout is quite narrow, there will come a time when one has to get on the layout.

Additionally, the article stated that drilling a hole for wiring was not necessary, just poke a hole through the foam with a screwdriver.  I just wonder how wires are pushed up through 2 inches of foam through a hole that is probably contracting because the foam was merely displaced by the screwdriver rather than removed with a drill.  I suspect pushing a wire up through 2 inches of foam would be difficult even with a drilled hole.

I do like the idea of using foam for a base.  I'm just not sure if it is practical.

Earl

[rtraincollector]

it's going a bit out of the norm but what I did on my last layout, and I feel it helped I had 3/4" plywood with indoor/outdoor carpet. I bought a bottle of liquid electrical tape. I painted all my screws. I'm not saying it helped 100% but it did reduce the sound vibrating into the wood.

[lionelbob]

Peter Riddle starts out his article suggesting using foam board for the top part of your layout.  I think this would be a disaster.  Yes, you don't have to square dance on your layout, but you may one day have to climb on it to reach a derailment or adjust an accessory.  This foam board will not support a grown man.  Also, although it may quiet the running of your trains, there is no way to fasten your track easily to the foam.  Once you get a big hunkin' Lionel Postwar steamer running around for a while, the forces on the track will eventually dislodge those little #4 screws that hold your track down.  Plywood has worked for me since I was a boy.  My current layout will hold two full sized men easily.  I'll deal with the noise.  Real trains are not quiet.