Our postwar/plasticville layout features the traditional 3-rail tubular track.
While it's working fine, I am thinking about (of course I'll probably have to win the lottery or inherit a fortune) replacing the three lines with newer track.
The most obvious, to me, is Lionel's fastrack system.
Based on your experience, what track would you suggest?
I'd also be interested in your "pros" & "cons" opinions.
As always, many thanks.
If you are trying to follow the same "footprint" of your current track plan, might want to try MTH realtrax, which comes in O-31 curvature, as opposed to Fastrack's O-36.
Another option is to keep the tubular track you have, and purchase Johnson's Rubber Roadbed to slip your track sections into. I believe recently it only has been produced in black, but if you keep a lookout you can find the better looking grey roadbed.
Roadbed idea.....Didn't think about it. Would be a "footprint" saver. Thanks.
Fastrack is by far the best upgrade. It is rugged, stay's together and looks good.
The one negitive is it can be loud. It doesn't bother me but some do complain about the noise.
S.J.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
They're all pretty darn good, but as you'd suspect none of them are perfect.
I like MTH Realtrack, it came with a starter set that I purchased and I've stuck with it, I like the nickle-silver track and it's corrosion resistance. Some people have complained about the switches but I run in closed loops anyway so I can't speak from personal experience on that. Disadvantages? Seems to be hard to find at my LHS's but I don't need anymore at the present so that doesn't bother me.
I've used Lionel Fastrack as well, it's good looking and easy to assemble. Disadvantages are it will increase your footprint with the 036 radius and it does tend to be noisy, but look at it this way, O gauge trains are noisy to begin with, so I can't say the noise bothers me. I use Fastrack under the Christmas Tree and when I run the trains it's smoke off, sound off, and I run them slow just relying on the visual effect so excessive noise isn't an issue. If I let 'em rip then it's gets noisy. Fastrack is also steel, so you'll have to watch it doesn't rust on you.
I've used Atlas O gauge track for a trolley loop, and it's nice stuff. Disadvantage is you'll have to ballast it yourself if you want "the look" and be sure to clean it before you run trains on it. I think they coat it with a rust inhibitor or some kind of preservative, the first time I put the trolley on it nothing happened! After I cleaned the track with alcohol it was fine. Also, there's no lockons for Atlas track, at least not that I'm aware of, so you'll have to solder leads to it. No big deal if you can handle a soldering iron.
Lot's to choose from, use the best you can afford and you won't go wrong.
You would be wise to look at different track systems before settling on one type of track. I am using the old tubular type track with Gargraves track & switches and won't go to anything else ever again!
Fastrack is over-rated!! Very noisy and has problems staying together unless you use note book type binders under the track, also very bad for electrical contact. I tried a small layout of Fastrack about 6 years ago(3 foot by 9 foot) and couldn't wait to unload it at a train show. PLEASE read posts about Fastrack switches. Also Fastrack must follow a track design as it is very bad to do free lance track work with.
Lee Fritz
fifedog ... as opposed to Fastrack's O-36...
... as opposed to Fastrack's O-36...
Rob
If fastrack is snapped together properly you can pick up the entire oval and carry it across the room. It does stay together. Loud yes.
My layout has over 200' of MTH Realtrax with at least a dozen switches. My minimum radious is 42". After using this track for 15 years I would never recomend this type of track. I have found out- of-gage pieces, bad switches, really bad switches and did I mention switches that don't work right out of the box.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
I used O27 profile track because that is what I had. With 31, 42, 54. & 72 radious curves, as well as a loop with O27 curves.
If I were to do it over I would go Gargraves. Lots of $$$$$$$ but seems to be the way to go.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
ADCX Rob fifedog ... as opposed to Fastrack's O-36...
Must be relatively recent, I haven't seen it around, but then I haven't been looking. The Lionel sets I've gotten had O36 curves, and I've got O36's under the tree.
No matter, this certainly increases the products versatility.
And Buckeye, that's too bad about your Realtrax experience. Mine's been fine, but as I said I can't speak about the switches with any authority.
SJ, Firelock 76, Lee Fritz, Rob, Buckeye, KRM:
You guys are great. Just the response that I was looking for.
A lot to think about. We'll see. Thanks, again.
Kev, I think the "42, 54, & 72" sizes you mentioned are the approximate diameter to the outside end of the ties, not the radius. The actual radii of these nominal sizes are 20 1/4, 26 3/8, and 35 1/4 inches, respectively. I'm not familiar with an O31 track that has the O27 profile; but there is a very useful O34 (15 3/4 inch radius) track that Marx once made. It's not hard to find; and I use a lot of it, since it nicely fills the gap between O42 and O27 (12 1/2 inches radius).
Bob Nelson
lionelsoni Kev, I think the "42, 54, & 72" sizes you mentioned are the approximate diameter to the outside end of the ties, not the radius. The actual radii of these nominal sizes are 20 1/4, 26 3/8, and 35 1/4 inches, respectively. I'm not familiar with an O31 track that has the O27 profile; but there is a very useful O34 (15 3/4 inch radius) track that Marx once made. It's not hard to find; and I use a lot of it, since it nicely fills the gap between O42 and O27 (12 1/2 inches radius).
The easiest upgrade is to add ballast and ties. I used popsicle sticks.
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
Now why didn't the rest of us "geniuses" think of that...
Penny Trains:
Thanks for the suggestion.
As a matter of fact, we did do that. I can remember the initial measuring for a prototype, the cutting of the sticks to the correct size and, of course, the coloring.
That was in "the good old days" when we set up our first "O" layout.
Again, while it is still a great option, I don't think it would be the choice now.
Thanks, so much.
Stick with tubular, either traditional or 027 rail height. You can dress it up and it can look quite good.
Frank:
Still thinking. Thanks for the idea and picture.
Traindaddy1 I also vote for Gargraves, or O/O27 track but will mention one more that a lot like even thou it's up there in price and thats Atlas track.
I'm not a fan of Fastrack or mth realtracs I've never had them come apart but they are loud. And most O gauge trains are loud to begin with.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
2 problems with FasTrack
If you want to wear earplugs and have a big wallet FasTrack looks better. Beware a 4x8 layout with 5-10 switches could cost up to $1,000 for track!
RTraincollector:, BigAL956:
Probably, the more I "hear", the more I am thinking that Fastrack may not be the route. And then, as "The Boss" reminds me, the "budget". (She doesn't mind the old track). We'll see! Thanks.
Actually tubular track is still the best performace track in everyway but looks. There's lots of it and it's cheap. BUT if you bump up I still say fastrack. Atlas is ok if you have no engines with magnetic wheels, it doesn't work on Atlas track.
Firelock76 Now why didn't the rest of us "geniuses" think of that...
If I could afford it, I'd like to use either Gargraves sectional, Super O or handlay the track.
Penny,
I always liked the Super O track and I thought it looked nice. I wonder why they gave it up?
Never have used any of it so don't know what the issues were if any.
KRM Penny, I always liked the Super O track and I thought it looked nice. I wonder why they gave it up? Never have used any of it so don't know what the issues were if any.
One of the main reasons was the buzzbar ( center clip) as they had a habit of lifting up and off or getting stuck in engines. Some will say it ate a cut in middle of the pick-up but that has since been proven false. I have it but donot use it. ( I have enough to complete two of my sets which came with it.) Buying the buzz bar now days is about $1 a piece Plus shipping. I had it as a child as my first train set came with it. It's a nice system and wish Lionel would make it again.
HELLO EVERYONE!
'been away for a couple of years; was moving to a new home; seems all the same folks are here! lost my old e-mail and sign in, so unfortunately lost my prior posts I suppose.
But getting to this thread's topic:
I'm starting to plan a new 'holiday' layout (the last one at the prior home stayed up for about 16 years -as my wife points out). This one will really have to be seasonal (2 - 3 months max). It may not even get set up untill next year...but it needs to be planned right, as everone knows.
I'm visualizing on the floor, about a 11' x 22' loop with possibly a few sidings for engine and car storage. I may be able to salvage the sidings and associated switches from the prior layout (classic tubular on raised luan plywood with cork roadbed), but I don' want to again build plywood underlayment for the rest of the loop. So I think Lionel FasTrax is my only real choice??
My questions include:
- how many power feeds are needed for a loop that size with Fastrac? (tubular would need perhaps 3).
- how tricky is it to freelance the loop configuration? (It would be rectangular at one end, riangulat at the other, and would marry to the aforementioned tubular siding.
- if Fastrac is no the best (or most economical) choice, what else would reliably run on bare floor?
looking forward to your comments,
thanks,
Runtime2
Another Reason was no "UCS" section though that would be easy to due with half sections and 37uncoupler then use power 43 power track for another section
Also the operating switche motors had a tendency to burn out and only 36 radius
Plus tools to make track are long gone
An interesting thing I have notice is online at least prices for tubular track have skyrocketed and not just the shipping
and I mean ANY of it switches or otherwise
FasTrack can be noisy if you don't understand how sound works.1. The 'roadbed' is hollow, adding some carpet padding inside will fill the void, and deaden the sound2. Don't put the track directly on plywood or other hard surface. Put down some homasote or other sound deadening board like 2x4 ceiling tiles, then screw the FasTrack to the sound deadening board (do not screw through to the hard board)3. If you use Gargraves or Atlas 21st Century track (which I use) make sure to enclose the bottom of the structure4. If you have hollow rolling stock (boxcars, reefers, cabeese, passenger cars) you will not be able to deaden the sound unless you fill the voidsNon-FasTrack accessories do NOT work well with FasTrack unless you mess around with getting the accessories positioned properly. This takes some time and patience. Lionel has released many of the popular opperating accessories as FasTrack versions. If you are running The Legacy Command System with switches, there is no better track system than FasTrack.
https://brentsandsusanspicutures.shutterfly.com/
Thanks for the reply...
As I posted, I am thinking of a Holiday setup for my new LR floor, to run around the furniture, at about 11' x 22'. With FasTrack this will be expensive, but for quick setup and takedown on bare (terrazzo) floor, is there any good alternative? And is there adapter track to marry to tubular?
BTW - Although I have never used FasTrack, I have used a bit ofLionel Super O (one loop, one switch). It has worked well, but the lower rail height is incompatible with higher wheel flanges of prewar stock (same for Gargraves).
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