I need to replace the armature in a 6654W tender whistle motor, but I can't figure out how to disengage the old one from the whistle shaft in order to get it out. Any suggestions?
John
Why do you need to take the motor apart. I don't think there is any easy to remove the armature. The impeller is pressed on the shaft.
I think he wants to remove the armature for a comple cleaning, and possibly to lube the lower bearing, and you're right servoguy, the impeller's press fit on the base of the armature and is a BEAR to get off.
I chickened out and didn't even try, didn't want to break it.
gottcentI need to replace the armature in a 6654W...
What is the failure that would require replacement?
Rob
Sorry, guys. I should have explained that the current armature is burned out. There is no continuity between 2 of its sections. I think it needs to be rewound.
Just for clarification, what Whistle do you have, as metal body, or plastic body. It also depends on when it was made, if it is the metal bodied whistle,the bottom plate could have push rivets to hold the plate into the main body, or could have screws holding the bottom plate into to body of the whistle. If that is the type you have, the bottom plate has to come off, and the impeller can be taken off (straight) by hand, with a twising motion, and put back on with just your fingers.
It's a metal body, with rivets. Thanks for your tip!
Okay, with the metal rivets, if you use a very thin bladed screwdriver, you can usually pry them straight up. The rivets have straight knurled edge all the way down the rivet. Be very careful, if you decide to use the metal plate, against the metal body and try to wedge it apart, as there is a gasket that seals the two parts for air leakage sealing. You can try to go between the plate and body, to start the rivet out, and then get under the rivet next. Try and be careful with the gasket, and when reassembling, use some kind of gasket sealer, to make sure there is no air leak. Just take your time, and be careful, and it can be done. I have done it twice myself.
I just pulled out my repair manual, and they are called Drive Studs, part WS-93 (copper plated) or WS-103 (iron)...The gasket has a number, but not sure if it is available from any supplier. Part #WS-60.
Thanks very much. I'll give this a try (though I may not get to it right away) and let you know what happens.
Okay, with the metal rivets, if you use a very thin bladed screwdriver, you can usually pry them straight up.
I use precision nippers (diagonal cutter). Get the edge under the head, and pry up gently. As the "rivet" lifts out, reposition the nipper to get further underneath the head
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