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E-Units

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  • Member since
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E-Units
Posted by steve1946 on Friday, February 12, 2016 10:26 AM

Good Morning,

The e-unit in my Lionel #2046 worked in a "sketchy" manner. It would not cycle properly but it did work after a number of trys. I separated it from the motor and visually inspected it and discovered that the drum was dirty but otherwise OK.  The 2 finger and 4 finger contacts and plunger were also dirty so I disassembled the e-unit.  I cleaned everything with a non-scratching pad.  Everything cleaned up well so I direct wire it to my 1033 and tested it.  It seemed to work fine until I resoldered the wires and reinstalled to the motor.  Now it runs like it did before I took it apart in the first place. Here is how it cycles; power-buzz, power-buzz, power-reverse, power-buzz-, power-buzz, power-reverse, power-buzz, power-finally forward!  Anyone know for sure if the drum is the culprit?  Thanks, Steve

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Posted by steve1946 on Friday, February 12, 2016 10:26 AM

[quote user="steve1946"]

Good Morning,

The e-unit in my Lionel #2046 worked in a "sketchy" manner. It would not cycle properly but it did work after a number of trys. I separated it from the motor and visually inspected it and discovered that the drum was dirty but otherwise OK.  The 2 finger and 4 finger contacts and plunger were also dirty so I disassembled the e-unit.  I cleaned everything with a non-scratching pad.  Everything cleaned up well so I direct wired it to my 1033 and tested it.  It seemed to work fine until I resoldered the wires and reinstalled to the motor.  Now it runs like it did before I took it apart in the first place. Here is how it cycles; power-buzz, power-buzz, power-reverse, power-buzz-, power-buzz, power-reverse, power-buzz, power-finally forward!  Anyone know for sure if the drum is the culprit?  Thanks, Steve

 

 

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Posted by teledoc on Friday, February 12, 2016 12:35 PM

You apparently have a problem with E units in general. Did you use the same drum that was in it originally?  A possibility is that the little nubs on either end may not be smooth, and hanging up when it goes to rotate.  That would be my guess.  Another thing you could try, is using a spray can of Contact Cleaner, and spray the whole thing down really good, and just let the excess cleaner drip off the E unit.  NEVER, NEVER oil anything or use lubricant of any kind on E units, as that will surely gum things up, and attract grit.

 

On another note, as you don't like to respond to other posts!!  Did you ever get your 1688 wired correctly.  I gave you a step by step of how to hook everything up.  Does it work now or not????

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Posted by steve1946 on Friday, February 12, 2016 1:03 PM

teledoc,

I just replied to your comment regarding my earlier post about the 1688 but the reply was via e-mail.

When I post a question to the forum I always check-mark the e-mail box so all replys come into my e-mail and that is how I reply back to the sender.  Apparently I need to reply to the forum!  Sorry about that. I always leave a reply, just not in the right place.  Yes I did get the old 1688 running again and it was because your reply. I appreciate your accurate information.  The key to making the motor work on this engine is the right brush plate screw contacting with the little sliver of brass under the screw head to make ground!

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Posted by teledoc on Friday, February 12, 2016 1:32 PM

Steve, I don't receive E mail replies from CTT, from other posts, and wondered if you got the 1688 running.  You hadn't checked in for a while.  The most overlooked problem is that one single screw that HAS TO made ground contact, otherwise you go crazy trying understand why it won't run.  I had the same problem earlier, until I understood what he problem was.  Now I double check it before the motor gets reinstalled.

i used to be strictly Postwar, but for the last year, I was nudged by someone on another forum and now I am into Prewar, and specifically the 1688 torpedo.  I have analyzed that body casting, and the motors, and you would be surprised at  the variations there were.  There were actually 3 different motors used on 1688's, depending on when it was made.  I probably know more about Lionel's 1688/1688E than even Bruce Greenberg, who published many books.  You have question on a 1688, I can probably answer it.

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Posted by steve1946 on Friday, February 12, 2016 2:09 PM

teledoc,

From now on all replys from me will go through CTT.  I have been reading about the 1688's and yes there are a large number of variations.  In the Fall 1989 issue of CTT magazine the front cover is adorned with a truly beautiful Pennsylvania Torpedo.  The article is extensive and explains much about the variations of that locomotive.  It was writtewn by John Grams.  Yes the ground connection was the boogy-man that kept my 1688 a real puzzle for me.  I have only one 1688 but would like to have more.  The one I have is C7 and is occupying a special shelf in the train room.  Thanks Steve

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Posted by sir james I on Friday, February 12, 2016 3:29 PM

Posting efforts/results on your thread also helps others that may have a similar problem.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

  Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC)   - Detroit3railers-  Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS

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Posted by steve1946 on Friday, February 12, 2016 3:55 PM

sir james,

Right on!  I didn't realize that my reply to the various e-mails I had been receiving wasn't seen by those who replied.

Thanks, Steve

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Posted by Dobson on Friday, February 12, 2016 5:43 PM

I would agree with teledoc on looking at the nub on the end of each side of the drum to make sure they Aren't worn down.  That can be a source of the hangup.  If you put in a new drum someone mentioned that you should also buff it a little bit like it is dirty because new ones may have a film on them.  That worked on a new drum for me from the train tender.  

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Posted by cwburfle on Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:14 AM

In addition to what already been mentioned, sometimes the drums develop little notches at the base of the teeth that cause the pawl to hang up.

Another possiblity (but not common): The cross-bar that attaches the pawl to the e-unit plunger could be rubbing against the inside of the motor side frames. Make certain the insides of the motor side frames are clean where the e-unit goes, and that that little rod isn't rubbing. If it is, you may see marks on the inside of the motor frame.

Recently I had to trim the rod on an MPC e-unit.

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Posted by steve1946 on Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:19 AM

I'd like to thank everyone for posting replys to my delima with e-units.  Also I apologize for not posting replys on the forum to suggestions I have been receiving on various issues that I've had with Lionel over the past year or so.  My results and thank you's have been sent as a reply to the e-mails that land on my computer and I just realized that you were not getting them!  Teledoc got me straightened out.  The e-unit issue was solved by replaceing the old drum with a new Jeff Kane Train Tender drum.  Looking closely at the old drum I could see the little nubs on the sides were not round and were hanging up in the holes.  Thanks for your help.

 

Steve

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Posted by teledoc on Saturday, February 13, 2016 12:28 PM

Steve, Glad you got the problems solved, and realize how TINY little details can be easily overlooked.  It gets frustrating at times, and it usually gets a result from someone who went through the same problem.  I know for sure that you Won't forget about the screw needing to be grounded, through the frame, next time!!!  Have fun with all the projects.

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