Installing an insulated rail tube track from a postwar ZW thru a barrier strip with a toggle switch. Can't get it to work properly, does anyone have a diagram or tips on how to achieve this. Did this 10 years ago, now my mind is failing me.
Thank you
Welcome Redwings,
How about a little more info on how your doing the wireing?
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
on one side remove the rail put thin cardboard thick paper where the rail attaches put rail back in place. put issolation pins at each end of that rail, then run a wire from that rail to your accesory and one from your transformer that way when the train goes over it it will get energize thru the axle
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
Welcome - how is it not working as you expect?
IT consultant by day, 3rd generation Lionel guy (raising a 3YO 4th generation Lionel Lil' Man) by night in the suburbs of the greatest city in the world - Chicago. Home of the ever-changing Illinois Concretus Ry.
accessory activates when toggle switch is thrown, rail is insulated with tabs from a donor piece of track. Accessory wire from insulated rail to accessory. Wire from accessory to toggle switch in on position to barrier strip to transformer. "other wire from transformer to powered outer rail, ZW shuts down when connected to center rail. Thank you for you time
redwings accessory activates when toggle switch is thrown, rail is insulated with tabs from a donor piece of track. Accessory wire from insulated rail to accessory. Wire from accessory to toggle switch in on position to barrier strip to transformer. "other wire from transformer to powered outer rail, ZW shuts down when connected to center rail. Thank you for you time
What accessory are you trying to hook up?
Which post on the ZW are you connecting each wire to?
Also, have you tried removing the toggle switch and barrier strip to get the circuit back down to its simplest form, which should only need two wires (one from the transformer A/B/C/D post to the accessory, and a second from the accessory to a Lockon connected to the outside insulated rail via clip #2)?
thanks for the reply, coming off the common (bottom) terminal of the zw to a barrier strip, barrier strip to the uninsualted (powered) rail. from insulated rail to accessory to "off" position of toggle switch, from on position of toggle to barrier strip back to transformer.
I have salvaged pieces of carboard for the insualted rail (with fiber pins) from a donor piece of track.
When I throw the toggle to the on position it activated the accessory whether wheels are on the insulated rail or not, aka it just come on.
I'm obviously doing something incorrectly. please help.
Thank You
redwings Coming off the common (bottom) terminal of the zw to a barrier strip, barrier strip to the uninsualted (powered) rail. from insulated rail to accessory to "off" position of toggle switch, from on position of toggle to barrier strip back to transformer. I have salvaged pieces of carboard for the insualted rail (with fiber pins) from a donor piece of track. When I throw the toggle to the on position it activated the accessory whether wheels are on the insulated rail or not, aka it just come on.
Coming off the common (bottom) terminal of the zw to a barrier strip, barrier strip to the uninsualted (powered) rail. from insulated rail to accessory to "off" position of toggle switch, from on position of toggle to barrier strip back to transformer.
I'm trying to visualize what you've set up but am having trouble. I suggest you remove the toggle switch and the barrier strip from your circuit. Get it running with the minimum number of connections. Then start adding the pieces back - when things don't function as you expect, you've found where you have a problem.
Redwings,
The way you describe your wiring setup, it sounds correct.
Your description of the problem leads to the conclusion your insulated rail is not insulated. Most fiber or plastic pins have a collar to prevent an insulated rail from touching the next rail. If that is your case and the insulated rail is not touching an uninsulated rail on the next piece of track, then your home made insulated rail has failed to be insulated.
..........Wayne..........
To add to Wayne's post, if you can remove the section of track from the other adjoining sections of track and try it again. If it works like it is supposed to, the pins are the problem. If it still doesn't, then the fiber insulators are the problem. Sometimes they get cracked when they are being removed or reinstalled, and it is probably only one of them that is damaged. Hopefully you're like most model railroaders and have a box of junk track uder the table to cannibalize another insulator from.
I've made a few dozen sections the same way you have described. When they work I wonder why anyone would pay extra for one that's already made. The one I made that didn't work explained it to me.
Hope this helps,
J White
great idea, on my way to the basement to do that. You have lead me to believe I may have been clueless, which wouldn't be the first time. Thanks for your reply. Enjoyed Chicago Union Station a few months age.
going from abcd posts to non powered 3rd rail, insulated rail to accessory (banjo signal) accessory to toggle, toggle back to U post. Probably making it harder than it has to be. Thank you for your time.
thank you for your reply. Made this harder than it had to be. You were spot on with your comment on the fiber pins. Had a defective one. You are a smart person. Thank you for your time.
I owe you one. Spot on advice, did as you said. Overthinking on my part and a bad fiber pin. I'll probably post in a bit when I outsmart myself hooking up a semaphore. Thanks for your help with my crossing gates and banjo (wig wag) signals.
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