Hello fellow train fans!
I would like to build an o gauge layout, either 8x8 or 12x8 L-shaped layout with fastrack or tubular. I'm not sure. I would like to here everybodies opinion on what type of track, shape of layout and any plans for either. Also i would like to have at least 2 mainlines with cross overs and a yard. Thanks!
No matter what size you start with you will want more. There are some very nice track plans in books you can get from Kalmbach. Othrewise just make one up and go. I would think on a layout of that size O31 tubular track would be fine. Depends on what engines and your rolling stock needs for curves.
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Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Okay Thanks KRM! I was thinking if I use fastrack that I would use o-36 w/ 5"in straights in between!
if your using fastrack make sure your not on bare wood and your screws/nails don't reach the wood as it will be very noisey
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Thanks for the tip, that will be very helpful! Also who would you secure the track without screws touching the would. If its on foam? Thanks
Keep in mind, any track screwed directly and tight to wood will carry the sound into the wood. I use a thin ¼” layer of metal siding foam under the grass mat and don’t tighten the screws down. Just leave them loose but deep enough to hold the track from moving. The foam should hold back some of the Fastrack noise. But Fastrack is loud. I always thought to try putting Great Stuff foam under it then trimming it off to see if it would be better, but I use O27 profile track so I have not done it yet.
Oh Okay I will do that when I'm going to build a layout.
Why limit thyself to an L-shape. Think tri-oval. And instead of long straight tangents of track, try encorporating some long sweeping O72 "straights".
Tunnels are great. Extricating derailed equipment out of them, not so great. Cleaning track inside tunnels, not great at all.
Switches "eat" real estate. Lots of switches "eat" lots of real estate. And funds.
If you are keeping your lines separate, and level, Fastrack will do. But if you are putting grades in, and over-under operation, my advice is to use tubular track. It will give you more freedom and less headaches.
Check out some of Janis Raguskie's layout on YouTube, for a little inspiration.
Tubular is the way to go. And if you do one of those L layouts, cut an access in the back corner. Maebbe put a tunnel above the throttles there, and tracks nearby. That's what mine will be like (eventually).
Ok Thanks for the info! I am going to be doing an 8x8 probably w/ fastrack!
Thats a pretty good Idea but I think i'm going to do fastrack on an 8x8 because it would fit better.
KRM Keep in mind, any track screwed directly and tight to wood will carry the sound into the wood. I use a thin ¼” layer of metal siding foam under the grass mat and don’t tighten the screws down. Just leave them loose but deep enough to hold the track from moving. The foam should hold back some of the Fastrack noise. But Fastrack is loud. I always thought to try putting Great Stuff foam under it then trimming it off to see if it would be better, but I use O27 profile track so I have not done it yet.
Track should not be screwed down tightly regardless of the noise. A sheet of plywood or other material is rarely perfectly flat. If the screws are too tight, the track will distort. I like to leave the screws loose. This holds them in position, but allows them to float up and down a little.
If you have the space, an 8 x 12 rectangular table is a nice size.
DFD26 KRM Keep in mind, any track screwed directly and tight to wood will carry the sound into the wood. I use a thin ¼” layer of metal siding foam under the grass mat and don’t tighten the screws down. Just leave them loose but deep enough to hold the track from moving. The foam should hold back some of the Fastrack noise. But Fastrack is loud. I always thought to try putting Great Stuff foam under it then trimming it off to see if it would be better, but I use O27 profile track so I have not done it yet. What about homasote sound deadening board?
What about homasote sound deadening board?
cwburfle Track should not be screwed down tightly regardless of the noise. A sheet of plywood or other material is rarely perfectly flat. If the screws are too tight, the track will distort. I like to leave the screws loose. This holds them in position, but allows them to float up and down a little. If you have the space, an 8 x 12 rectangular table is a nice size.
Toy Trains FTW DFD26 KRM Keep in mind, any track screwed directly and tight to wood will carry the sound into the wood. I use a thin ¼” layer of metal siding foam under the grass mat and don’t tighten the screws down. Just leave them loose but deep enough to hold the track from moving. The foam should hold back some of the Fastrack noise. But Fastrack is loud. I always thought to try putting Great Stuff foam under it then trimming it off to see if it would be better, but I use O27 profile track so I have not done it yet. What about homasote sound deadening board? I thought that stuff was not good for you.
I thought that stuff was not good for you.
DFD26 Toy Trains FTW DFD26 KRM Keep in mind, any track screwed directly and tight to wood will carry the sound into the wood. I use a thin ¼” layer of metal siding foam under the grass mat and don’t tighten the screws down. Just leave them loose but deep enough to hold the track from moving. The foam should hold back some of the Fastrack noise. But Fastrack is loud. I always thought to try putting Great Stuff foam under it then trimming it off to see if it would be better, but I use O27 profile track so I have not done it yet. What about homasote sound deadening board? I thought that stuff was not good for you. It's not good for you? Please enlighten me. That's all I've ever heard over the years are the virtues of homasote. I am planning on using two sheets of it for my 8x8 tinplate layout.
It's not good for you? Please enlighten me. That's all I've ever heard over the years are the virtues of homasote. I am planning on using two sheets of it for my 8x8 tinplate layout.
I used Sound Stop, it's a compressed recycled paper product I believe. Kinda like the ceiling tiles that are used for drop ceilings except they are a 4x8 sheet. When I built my seasonal layout the sound stop was about a third of the price of Homasote and seemed like it would hold a screw better as long as you are judicious in how much torque you apply to the fastener.
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dougdagrump I used Sound Stop, it's a compressed recycled paper product I believe. Kinda like the ceiling tiles that are used for drop ceilings except they are a 4x8 sheet. When I built my seasonal layout the sound stop was about a third of the price of Homasote and seemed like it would hold a screw better as long as you are judicious in how much torque you apply to the fastener.
A dust mask would be a good idea when cutting anything that will produce a fine dust. To compare it to asbestos is apples and oranges because on a microscopic level the fibers are different, asbestos stays hard ans cuts the tissues of the bronci tubes causing scaring. Any dust in your lungs is bad, but some are by far worse than others.
On a side note, before building your table have the area prepared. Anything you are going to do to the walls and ceiling should be done before the table because the table will be in the way. Think lighting too at this time. There is lighting to work on the layout and the lighting to operate the trains under. Now is when to determine and add lighting and wall covering if they are part of your plan
Jim
Sturgeon-Phish A dust mask would be a good idea when cutting anything that will produce a fine dust. To compare it to asbestos is apples and oranges because on a microscopic level the fibers are different, asbestos stays hard ans cuts the tissues of the bronci tubes causing scaring. Any dust in your lungs is bad, but some are by far worse than others. On a side note, before building your table have the area prepared. Anything you are going to do to the walls and ceiling should be done before the table because the table will be in the way. Think lighting too at this time. There is lighting to work on the layout and the lighting to operate the trains under. Now is when to determine and add lighting and wall covering if they are part of your plan Jim
I would not reccomend FasTrack. It's expensive and noisy. I've searched on the topic in vain looking for a solution to the noise. On my last layout piece i ran some FasTrack I used Homasote like material with astroturf carpeting and it's still very noisy.
If you are building a larger layout with around 10 switches your track cost with FT will approach $1,000! Yikes!
Tried and true tubular is the way to go if you are on a budget.
Thanks for the tip Al! even though fastrack is expensive, i do have enough to make a large outer loop for an 8x8 plus I have 2 manual switches w/ track for 2 spurs. So I think I will have to do with fastrack.
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