Replace a mechanical e-unit with a salvaged electronic reversing unit ??

[GalacticVoyager]

Thanks for all your help. 

Now that I know the technique with the rectifier, I can quiet my other old timers. 

For those who may be reading this later, I located the rectifiers on Amazon. A package of 5 sells for about $5 plus shipping. 

[ADCX Rob]

No, that won't work. That's a light duty 103 unit for one or two small can motors.

And, they're only $15.

[GalacticVoyager]

The salvaged e-unit is from a Lionel Model 8617 Steam Engine. I am not sure how to determine the capacity but attached are some close up pictures that may help answer that question. 

The blue and white wires in the picture go to the on/off switch. 

 

 

GalacticVoyager

... I am still interested in knowing if a salvaged electronic e-unit can be used in place of the older mechanical style...

 

 

It can, with limitations, and depending on what it was "salvaged" from. Where did you get it, and what brand/model/capacity is it?

 

[/quote]

[ADCX Rob]

GalacticVoyager

... I am still interested in knowing if a salvaged electronic e-unit can be used in place of the older mechanical style...

It can, with limitations, and depending on what it was "salvaged" from. Where did you get it, and what brand/model/capacity is it?

[GalacticVoyager]

I was successful installing the recommended bridge rectifier and the noisy e-unit is a lot quieter than it used to be. I am still interested in knowing if a salvaged electronic e-unit can be used in place of the older mechanical style. Since the salvaged unit is essentially free and a new one cost $50+, the salvage option is an attractive alternative. If you have some advice, I would appreciate it. I may take the risk and perform experimental surgery next.

[GalacticVoyager]

Thanks for all the input. I will begin experimenting after the Holidays. I have ordered the recommended bridge rectifier (alas our neighborhood Radio Schack has closed and it is quite a hike to the nearest store). 

[Firelock76]

Gee, you DON'T like the E-unit buzz?  Man, in my own humble opinion that's part of what gives vintage Lionel engines their charm!  That "buzz" when you first give it the juice strikes me as the promise of the fun that's about to start.

Oh well, to each his own I suppose.  I won't say you're wrong.

[lionelsoni]

The article you remember was on page 66 of the July, 2015, CTT.  But it has a number of mistakes.  See my comments here:

http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/247635.aspx

 

[stebbycentral]

IF it's a Dallee, the wiring instructions can be found online:

http://www.dallee.com/E_Units.html

[jwse30]

I had a switcher that had a very loud e unit. I was advised to bend the pawl just a little bit so the hook is closer to the drum. I did that about 12 years ago, and it is still very quiet.

 

J White

 

[GalacticVoyager]

Thanks, I did not remember that. I think there was an article in Classic Toy Trains some time ago on how to do that. I will try to find it. 

[lionelsoni]

Do you know that you can likely quiet the e-unit by putting a small bridge rectifier upstream of its coil?

Check out this post:

http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/p/23056/319256.aspx

[GalacticVoyager]

I located a Lionel EP-5 diesel/electric which is in good condition and the shell is perfect for the authenticity I was trying to achieve with matching passenger cars. 

The engine runs well but the mechanical E-Unit is rather noisy. From other postings, I have learned that this is fairly common if the E-unit is loose enough to operate. I have put sound absorbing insulation inside the shell which helps to deaden the sound. 

Yesterday I realized that I have a spare engine with an electronic E-Unit and I am wondering if I can salvage the electronic E-unit and use it to replace the mechanical E-unit in the EP-5.

It isn't obvious which wires correspond on the two devices, so I am reluctant to cut and solder before I know if the substitution is possible. 

If anyone has experience doing this, I would appreciate any pointers on how to make the switch.