Hello! I am here to ask some beginner questions. Ho scale is my primary scale, so I don't know much about O and everything that goes with it. I recently picked up a Lionel 1615 work train set free at a neighborhood cleanup, score! It didn't run when I got it, but I managed to remove the shell and clean off the motor commutators, and lubricate the motor and gear bearings. It ran much more smoothly after that on my test track, and I thought that I would use it under the tree this year. upon firing it up on my loop of track, I noticed that it was a bit noisy and slows down on the curves. The transformer I was using, a standard train set Lionel powermax gave me an overload signal, so I switched to a railking one and it worked fine. The track is Lionel fasttrack w standard train set curves, whatever they are. O-31 or something like that. Is there anything I can do to improve the performance of it? I haven't lubricated the exterior gears yet, as I have mixed opinions on whe you should lubricator them or not. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you in advance.
-Peter. Mantua collector, 3D printing enthusiast, Korail modeler.
Does it slow on all the curves or just selected ones? If at all curves check the set on the wheels to ensure they are running true and not too wide to prevent binding in the curves. If slowing at a single curve start investigating for a track issue, conductivity would be a place to start measuring the current at the transformer as the train is running and what happens to voltage and current when the train slows.
Jim
Clean the track first. Then check the metal contacts at the end of the tracks to make sure they aren't bent or crimped out of place.
Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the track, then chase it with some rubbing alchohol. Don't use steel wool or sandpaper. Fastrack does dirty up from various causes and will cause performance issues.
It seems to slow down on all curves. I'll check the track when I get home. The speed changes didn't seem consistent, though. would lubricating the gears still help? This engine was in storage for about 30 years, judging by the newspaper it was wrapped in.
Lube the gears and oil the axles. Fastrack is 036 so a 1615 should not slow down on the curves unless there is a voltage drop in your track. If you are pulling 1950s type cars a small drop of oil on the axles will improve the pulling power of the engine as well.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Is this a Lionel set from the 1960s? The 1516 is a Diesel set from my research. Those Lionel Alcos were notorious for the motor frame leaves going out of allignment. Its hard to describe but if the frame mounted motor leaves get loose the commutator has trouble turning and the will make a lot of noise.
BigAl 956 Is this a Lionel set from the 1960s? The 1516 is a Diesel set from my research. Those Lionel Alcos were notorious for the motor frame leaves going out of allignment. Its hard to describe but if the frame mounted motor leaves get loose the commutator has trouble turning and the will make a lot of noise.
It is the 1615, different set. It was made in 1955, and comes with an 0-4-0 switcher, nyc gondola, railroad crane, and work caboose.
It helps to lubricate the rolling stock, including the tender. A small drop of oil placed where each wheel meets its axle will wick into the hole.
Postwar trucks are built with wheels that turn independently on their axles. The axles remain stationary.
IMHO, the 1615 is a nice locomotive.
The 1615 & 1625 are good little runners. Take the shell off again, and on the geared side of motor, put a drop of oil on shaft of the gear between the wheels. Above that one at the top is the plate that holds the armature shaft, put a drop of oil on that shaft. Go to the other side of the motor and where the shaft of the armature protrudes through the brush plate, another drop of oil there. Don't get over zealous with the oil, and be very careful not to get it down into the brushes. Hold the motor in one hand, and roll the wheels back and forth a few times, to get the oil to wick down onto those shafts. Does it squeak or squeal when you run it? If so, the lubing should stop that. I also put a small drop of oil on the axles, right next to the sides of the motor, where the axles go through the bearings.
I would then make sure the track is very clean, and use a Scothbrite pad and Isopropyl Alcohol 91% if you can find it, the higher percentage is best. Scotchbrite followed by a wipe down with alcohol, and make sure connections are tight. It should run without any issues. I have six 1615's and two 1625 locos, and all run great.
OK I see. The locomotive is 1615. The set number is 1527 or 502. Either way a nice set. A lot of good advise already posted. Lube em up before you try anything drastic.
Are these generally noisy locomotives? I was comparing it to my much newer railing 2-6-0 and there was quite a difference.
You are talking about a Postwar loco that is 60 years old, compared to (assumed you meant Railking 2-6-0) that would be about 20 years old or less. Apples vs. oranges comparison. I don't have any MTH trains, or anything modern, but if I am correct, your 2-6-0 has a "can motor", and newer gears, which would make it a quiet loco. The older Postwar stuff requires good lubrication, on a regular basis to keep it running in tip-top shape, and you can eliminate the squealing/squeaking noise with proper lube, but it will be noisier than anything new within the last 20 years.
Postwar Lionel tends to have a neat "growl" to it when it runs. My father's 1655 steamer from the late 40's has a unique sound from its double reduction gears and motor when it runs. This is shared with the 1656, which is the earlier version of your engine. Yes they are louder than the new can motored stuff. But from the smell of the ozone and hot oil to the sounds they make is magical to many older modelers. Wish I could score some postwar like that! Good job. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
Thanks for the kind input, guys. When I have a bit more time amid homework and school, I'll lube it up a bit and see what happens. Just to clarify for myself, you do lubricate the visible what I think are metal exterior driving gears, correct? I've seen people say never do that, and others say to do so. I have a Lionel maintenance kit with the lionel grease, and that is what I should use, yes?
DO NOT USE the old Lionel grease. It has dried out by now. The gears should be lubed you can see them on the side off the motor. Go to a hobby shop and get some white grease like Labelle #106.
The Lionel kit grease will work just fine for the gears. I use a molybdinum sulfide grease but that's just me being cool. I use Tri-Flow on other surfaces. This is a NEW Lionel lube kit you're talking about, isn't it? I wouldn't use a old one where the lube's have probably broken down by now.
There's a frequent poster here who swears by motor oil on everything. I'm sure that works well too.
yes the grease from a new kit would be fine, I was refering to the old kit that she may have found with the train.
I've got a new kit, don't worry. :)
Well in that case just enough grease to wet the gears and oil all the axles you should be good to go. One more...look closely at the motor, turn the wheels and watch where the armature turns. A little grease or tiny drop of oil goes on both ends of the armature shaft as well.
I recommend 5W-20 motor oil for everything. It never dries out or gets sticky. I cannot recommend any other lube as I can't find vapor pressure data for anything but motor oil. I have cleaned out white lithium grease that had hardened like concrete. The old Lionel Lube dried out pretty quick. I know from direct experience that motor oil will last 40 years without drying out or getting gummy.
One other thing to note about the 1615 is that thee s supposed to be a copper strip on the tender's drawbar that makes a tight fit to the engine's drawbar. This is supposed to help with conductivity for the AC return. If you cleaned the engine's wheels and center rail rollers, and it still doesn't run good, try cleaning the tender's wheels and making sure that the engine's drawbar fits tightly into the tender's. Make sure that copper strip isn't corroded too and clean it if necessary.
Hope this helps,
J White
servoguy I know from direct experience that motor oil will last 40 years without drying out or getting gummy.
I know from direct experience that motor oil will last 40 years without drying out or getting gummy.
I know from my experiences that motor oil draws dirt and dust like fleas to a dog. So if you want to leave anything on your engines for 40 years and not clean or re-lube,,,,,,,,shame on you.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
I use motor oil where there is bronze, or no easy way to lubricant into the system. Otherwise, I use the good old lube that my family used in the past .
He post his motor oil thing on every thread that ask about lube. Do what you want but the gears on my engines will get Labelle 106. Axles? I guess gummy motor oil would do if you clean the old off.
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