Trains.com

refixing old problems

2210 views
10 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2011
  • 429 posts
refixing old problems
Posted by tinplatacis on Monday, March 23, 2015 9:06 AM

I have a lionel 1666 from 1947 and a 610 switcher from 1955 that both have VERY sensitive eunits.  they run about 3'-5' in one direction, then blink, switch directions for about the same distance, and do this nonstop with smaller distance traveled each time.  does anyone know how to fix it?  I've tried taping the lever in place, attaching a self made pickup car to fix current disruptions, and the like.

KRM
  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: North Bluff above Marseilles IL
  • 6,505 posts
Posted by KRM on Monday, March 23, 2015 9:17 AM

 Maybe,
Sounds like it could be a wire has come loose at where they go into the e-unit. Check to see if the wires are solid at the e-unit and look for cracked or missing installation where it may be shorting out making it think it is being switched.  I have had the wire loose at the e-unit and saw the same issue with my older units.

A place to start.

Joined 1-21-2011    TCA 13-68614

Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL. Whistling

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: South Carolina
  • 9,713 posts
Posted by rtraincollector on Monday, March 23, 2015 9:29 AM

I agree with kevin but could be a few other things the E-unit needs cleaning or the fingers ( as they call them) in the E-unit has one or more bent. Or as old as they are maybe just worn out and need rebuilt or replaced 

 

Life's hard, even harder if your stupid  John Wayne

http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • 969 posts
Posted by TrainLarry on Monday, March 23, 2015 12:00 PM

The fact that the light blinks indicates a loss of power to the locomotive itself.

Either something is shorting out, or there is a bad connection from the rollers to the e-unit. Also make sure the wheels, pickup rollers and track are clean.

Larry

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • 951 posts
Posted by servoguy on Monday, March 23, 2015 12:21 PM

If the switch lever is loose when it is in the position to turn the E unit on, the E unit will cycle due to vibration.  The switch levers get loose because the circuit board they are mounted on will warp due to age.  What I have done in the past is bend the tip of the lever which contacts the rivet on the circuit board.  For a steamer, I take the motor out and then take the E unit out of the motor assembly and rotate the lever until I can grab the tip of the lever that contacts the rivet with a pair of pliers.  Then I bend the tip a little until it makes a good contact with the rivet.  Bend the lever with a twisting motion, not by pressing on the tip  with force.  

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • 1,786 posts
Posted by cwburfle on Monday, March 23, 2015 1:25 PM

Some folks recommend slipping a horseshoe washer behind either the spring washer to tighen them up. You can also slip a horseshoew washer between the fiber board and the metal e-unit frame.
I usually break down the e-unit and do a complete rebuild if the lever is loose.

Sometime I think the E-unit's eyelet stretches. This seems to be especially true of e-unit switches put together with a "copper" eyelet.

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Hotchkiss, Colorado
  • 294 posts
Posted by steve24944 on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 9:36 AM

I too have a 1666 and the 610 Erie on my layout.  My 1666 was giving me problems with the sliding pic-up shoe.  Going over switches would trip the E-unit.  I have a 243W whistle tender from a 243 Scout Locomotive.  I spliced a wire to the wire to the headlamp in the locomotive. In the tender I added a 2 screw treminal strip and spliced in a wire from the pick-up roller and made a plug with spade connectors and styrene tube.   See photos.   With the additional pickup roller on the tender the locomotive will go across switches with no problem.

Steve

  • Member since
    November 2011
  • 429 posts
Posted by tinplatacis on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 4:56 PM
I have a similar arrangement, but it still swaps. and by blink, I meant that it literally makes that sound, b/c the light doesn't work on the one and the other one doesn't have one.
KRM
  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: North Bluff above Marseilles IL
  • 6,505 posts
Posted by KRM on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 5:03 PM

Sounds like it is time to take it apart and start looking at the other issues replied to here. You will find it.  Wink I have also seen the e-unit lever loose a quick try is put a small piece of aluminum foil in between the contacts to temporarily tighten it up first and see if that helps. You should be able to see if the contact is loose first though.

Joined 1-21-2011    TCA 13-68614

Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL. Whistling

 

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, March 26, 2015 9:02 AM

The connector that Steve described is called a Faston.  They are available with integral insulation, so that you don't need a sleeve:

Image result for images of fastonImage result for images of faston

A spade connector is something else:

Image result for images of faston

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    November 2011
  • 429 posts
Posted by tinplatacis on Friday, March 27, 2015 7:11 PM
Thank you all. the 1666 was the lever, but on the 610 there was a bare wire that was shorting against the frame. if only lionel hadn't left so much bare wire!

Join our Community!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month