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Lionel 1033 problems

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  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 5 posts
Posted by VictorVictor5 on Friday, March 20, 2015 7:38 PM

Larry,

   I wanted to post back you to close out this ticket. First, thanks to all who contributed. I did confirm that the circuit breaker was bad. I used contact cleaner I had laying around and we are good to go. I tried emery cloth but had a hard time getting in there, but in any case all of the voltages check out now.

 

   Thanks again everybody!

   VV5

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • 969 posts
Posted by TrainLarry on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 9:07 AM

The voltages you are getting suggest a closer look at the circuit breaker is in order. Unplug the transformer and check the resistance across the circuit breaker, points '5' and 'B' terminal on the parts view. Any reading other than a short circuit would suspect a bad breaker. Open the breaker contacts by hand and clean any dirt/oxidation that may be on them and try again.

Larry

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 8:27 AM

Try what I suggested on February 28.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 5 posts
Posted by VictorVictor5 on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 8:23 AM

While I appreciate your response, I'm the type that would rather repair than toss, especially when it comes to solid state electronics such as this model. While soild state is heavier than circuit boards, circuit boards are more of a pain to work with when compared to solid state, and I do have experience soldering at the board level (but not surface mount - that's a bit tricky).

Not trying to beat my chest, but I'm just new to model railroading. I'm good with soldering, but I'm just wondering if the throttle switch is going bad, if the inductor coil needs to be cleaned more thoroughly, or if the breaker has gone bad (and trying to figure out if point 5 is on the ground plane where the inductor is per the diagram). That's why I am posing the question to the community since they've "been around the block" with repairing.

 

VV5 out.

 

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • 81 posts
Posted by Dobson on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 7:24 AM
1033s are cheap. I would just buy a new one. They are readily available for around 20 bucks. I don't fiddle with transformers other than replacing plugs. If you aren't experienced with electrical work like some of the folks on the forum I would caution you with fiddling in this area.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck
  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 5 posts
Posted by VictorVictor5 on Monday, March 2, 2015 7:21 PM

Update to my last post - I tested it when the cover was off and the "switch board" was free such that I could clean the contact between the throttle switch and the inductor. When I bent the tabs back in place, now I'm getting voltages, for example, on BC I'm getting 2.5 VAC and AC I'm getting 3.3 VAC.

So back to the drawing board. Hmmm. I'm going to try another cleaner and post back. Should I try anything else?

 

VV5

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 5 posts
Posted by VictorVictor5 on Monday, March 2, 2015 7:07 PM

Thanks to both for the responses and apologies for my delay. I think the service bulletin helped out with my problem, but it looks like it works. I just took some emory cloth to the throttle contact.

 

I'll post back if I have any more issues.

 

Thanks!

VV5

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • 969 posts
Posted by TrainLarry on Saturday, February 28, 2015 10:55 AM

Welcome to the forum!

Here is the schematic for the 1033 transformer, and here is an exploded view. Unplug the transformer, and hook your ohmmeter to post B and point 5 to check the circuit breaker. The meter should show continuity. If not, the circuit breaker is open. Hook the meter to terminals U and C to check the reverse switch. You should get continuity which should change as you move the throttle lever. If not, the reverse switch is not making contact, or the contact arm is not contacting the coil.

The schematic page, under the heading for the similar 1032 transformer, shows open circuit voltages for various other terminal combinations. You should get these voltages regardless of the status of the reverse switch.

Larry

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Saturday, February 28, 2015 10:09 AM

It could be the circuit breaker, or the whistle control, or broken wiring in a number of places.  I suggest first opening it up and probing the secondary winding with a voltmeter along the arc where the wiper rubs it.  The voltage that you read should be proportional to how far apart your probes are.  From end to end, you should see about 11 volts.  It would be a good idea to have a load, like a 10-to-20-volt lamp, in parallel with your meter, especially if you're using a high-impedance voltmeter, as I suspect from the previous inconsistent readings.

If the secondary checks out, then we can start searching through the rest of the wiring.

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 5 posts
Lionel 1033 problems
Posted by VictorVictor5 on Friday, February 27, 2015 8:47 AM

Greetings all,

  New to the forums and relatively new to model railroading. A relative gave me a 1033 Transformer to fix and stated that the right voltage isn't coming out. For example, A-U is only giving me about 0.7-1.5 VAC (I've seen it go as high as 7 VAC, but nothing near capacity. And it doesn't stay up there.)

 

  Needess to say I'm having issues with it. I've done some research here and saw something about checking the circuit breaker. How do I test this type and is there anything else I should try?

 

   Thanks!

    VV5

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