Ok so some other commitments hace prevented me from workin, and I had a though whileaway from home which would allow me to have the crossover with out modifying the switches at all. Try to picture this: three parrallel tracks about 12 " apart , the center of which is a passing siding for the outer track. I would like add to the plan a crossover from the outermost to the inner most, but keep the tracks in the range of 14" center to center max. THat could possibly be done by using two lefts, one on inner and one on outer, wnd a right in between. Easy enough with o22 where the motor can be moved from one side to the other. Not so easy with 1122's where the motor on the righty is located I believe will interfere with the straight leg of the outermost lefty switch. A short spacer in between the left on the outer most amd the right leading to the passing siding in the center would do the trick, but how long must it be to allow clearance, and what will be the final overall distance from center to center of innermost and outermost tracks? Could probably afford 14-1/2" but really want to keep as close together as possible. Whaddaya think?
I agree with Bob that you want to open up the switch to see what you will be cutting. Are you cutting an 1122 or 1122E? Also I think it would be easier and cleaner to cut the metal base plate and plastic of the switch seperately. You also have the paper insulation and internal connections to deal with. You can deal with fixed power if you want after you open it. The frog could be held with super glue if you don't want to tap. The filler under the rails can be snipped back with diagonals if you don't want to sand. Taking your time and doing it right will increase your ability as a craftman. It is atttempting projects like this and other things that I like about the hobby. Good luck...AlanK
Not having a turnout open, I couldn't say. But I think its risky without opening the thing up. The hardest part to put back is the frog, which has a post underneath that's riveted to the bottom plate. Drill it through and tap it for a flathead screw that just reaches to the top of the frog.
Bob Nelson
but also on the subject:
I dremeled through the rails only, leaving the base alone. I then removed the rails and was surprised to find a plastic "filler" under each one. I am wary of grinding these flat to connect new rail over top of the plastic base on two counts--I am not the greatest craftsman in the world and also fear the fumes the grinding of the plastic will generate.
I feel that i must remove a rectangular chunk from the plastic/metal base which is wide enough to allow postiioning a leg of a Ross 30 degree crossing in that now empty spot and adapting. This might involve cutting the leg of the crossing back to allow for the 6" center to center dimnetion I want of the parrallel tracks. I may need to cut and install some 027 rail as a transition using 027 pins on one end and gargrave adaptor pins on the other end.
As I cut through and rmove the base, am I liable to be cutting through electrical circuitry? I plan to cut inside the terminal posts from the end of the curved led, then make a 90 degree at the point i removed the rails, then another 90 degree on the other side of the removed rail back toward the end of the curved portion.
Am I liable to be damaging circuitry as I do this alteration?
I'm sure that the screw that I used had a smaller diameter than a track pin, which makes me sure that the screw was no bigger than number 2. I filed down the screw head to fit inside the rail; so the screw size could have been smaller than number 2.
But the screw size is not critical. The important thing is the secure threaded connection between rail and frog, as the frog is zinc and therefore a poor candidate for soldering.
It's interesting to me to see that you remember screw diameters by counting up by 13 mils from number 0. I have always counted up or down from number 5, which is .125 or exactly 1/8 inch.
A 2-56 screw OD is 0.060 + 2 * 0.013 = 0.086. I think this is close to the pin diameter of O-27 track. A 4-40 screw would be 0.060 + 4 * 0.013 = 0.112 which is a little big for O-27. O-31 pins are 0.110. Hope this helps.
In cutting several O27 turnouts down to 30 degrees, I discovered that there would have been only about 1/10 inch left of the curved rail that touches the frog. What I did was to drill and tap the heel of the frog for a small brass screw (maybe 2-56--I don't remember). I filed the screw head to fit into the railhead of the adjoining rail, which I left just enough longer than it should have been, to meet the frog, and soldered the rail and screw together. For that short distance, the curvature or lack of it in the adjoining rail is of no consequence.
For the straightest cleanest cut, a band saw is the way to go.
Rob
stuartmit, The only tool I would use for this is a Dremel rotary hand tool with the diamond cutoff blade attachment. I changed 5 garGraves O-100 switches to O-54. That's the only blade that held up.
I need to cut to lionel 1122's from 45 degrees back to 30 degrees. What is the best tool for doing this? I did it once before maybe 30 years ago , and don't think I disturbed the nonderailing feature. No recollection of what I did. I would like to not have to remove the botton from the switch; I would like to be able to measure 30 degrees, and cut through on the curved leg skirting in side the contact posts and then turning 90 degrees across the rails at (approximately) the 30 dgree mark. The switches that I plan to use have the long control rail, not the short portion that some have. I believe those are better to use; If I cut the ones with the short control rail, I believe I would be cutting off the control of the nonderail feature. So--how do I proceed: What tool, what blade, etc. thanks
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