Thats why I don't use it but all track has some noise a lot use homosote I think thats the spelling but that's only avaible certain areas others use the pink/blue sheets of insulation you can get at home improvement stores and glue that to your plywood then screw track to that but make sure screw does not reach the board or it will carry the noise down with it.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
The expense and noise are the two leading FT complaints. On plywood FT is very noisy, espessially if there is nothing underneath it to absorb the sound. Try using small cut sheets of fiberglass insulation stuffed into the body of the track. That might help.
Jclass - I've responded to these posts quite a bit. Use the forum search feature - you will find a lot of ideas that work, and ideas that do not.What I found works best:1. Homasote/SoundStop/ceiling tiles glued (with contact cement) to the plywood2. #4 1 to 1.5 inch screws to attach the FasTrack to the barrier (do not screw through the barrier to the plywood)3. THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT - fill your hollow rolling stock (boxcars/covered hoppers/passenger cars) with non-fiberglass insulation, it is actually the voids in these rolling stock that cause the most noise. Heavier rolling stock does not appear to have this issue.4. If you have a raised layout/train garden, add some sound deadening material UNDER the plywood and if you have finished the sides with something add sound deadening to the back of that material as well.5. A white noise generator has shown some level of help in reducing the noise as well.
https://brentsandsusanspicutures.shutterfly.com/
5. A white noise generator has shown some level of help in reducing the noise as well.
What is this?
Joe Staten Island West
It makes a hissing sound that is intended to be louder than the unwanted noise, to make it harder to hear. It doesn't really reduce the unwanted noise at all, but just overwhelms it with what is meant to be a less offensive noise.
Bob Nelson
Rubber ballast by Scenic Express knocks down the noise on MTH Realtrax. It might help on Lionel Fastrack, too.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Page 36 of the January 2015 CTT they have the 2015 guide to O guage track you might want to look at that. I personally use Gargraves with Ross switches. But it a personal decision to which you want to use but this may help you.
I don't have FT. What makes it so noisy? Having that plastic base on it made me think it would be quieter. It's surprising to me to hear that it's louder than tube track.
the plastic base acts as a amperfier as its hollow
rtraincollector the plastic base acts as a amperfier as its hollow
rtraincollector You can keep your tubular track together and greatly reduce the resistance of the connections between sections by bending the rails where the pins are installed to splay the pins slightly. Hold a section of track with the pins facing away from you. Bend the right hand out side rail to the right where the pin is installed. Bend the center rail to the left. Bend the rails so that the tip of the pin is displaced about half of the diameter of the pin. When you grab the rails with pliers, make sure the jaws of the pliers are about 1/8" from the end of the rail. I have been doing this for about 7 years, and recently restored to use some 072 curved track that is somewhat corroded and/or rusty. I measure the joint resistance with a Kelvin connected milliohm meter, and the joint resistance between adjacent sections is nominally between 1.5 and 2.5 milliohms. This is 0.0015 and 0.0025 ohms. This eliminates the need for many Lockons.
You can keep your tubular track together and greatly reduce the resistance of the connections between sections by bending the rails where the pins are installed to splay the pins slightly. Hold a section of track with the pins facing away from you. Bend the right hand out side rail to the right where the pin is installed. Bend the center rail to the left. Bend the rails so that the tip of the pin is displaced about half of the diameter of the pin. When you grab the rails with pliers, make sure the jaws of the pliers are about 1/8" from the end of the rail. I have been doing this for about 7 years, and recently restored to use some 072 curved track that is somewhat corroded and/or rusty. I measure the joint resistance with a Kelvin connected milliohm meter, and the joint resistance between adjacent sections is nominally between 1.5 and 2.5 milliohms. This is 0.0015 and 0.0025 ohms. This eliminates the need for many Lockons.
Well with the large learning curve we have with this new forum what actually servoguy said not me by crimping the rails where they join you can stop the seperation from the hollow rails also and increase the cunductivity of the electronic flow (hopefully that is all spelled correct as none of my spell checks work in here no matter what browser I use.)
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month