Most US locations do adopt the NEC, but often with their own amendments (that may or may not be an improvement). The NEC is updated every three years; but local governments may be one or two versions behind. For example, although the 2014 code is out, the code in effect in the city of Austin (where I live) is the 2011 one. They have deleted 38 sections or articles and added dozens of pages of amendments. Outside of cities in Texas, the state has adopted the NEC, but as it existed in 2001. The NEC is a good starting point; but you need to find out what your local rules are.
Bob Nelson
lionelsoniAlthough it's called the "National Electrical Code", it is completely optional for local jurisdictions, who may adopt it, amend it, or ignore it completely.. Counting 8 outlets as 1 ignores the diversity principle behind allowing multiple 15-ampere outlets on a 20-ampere circuit. I had the opposite problem when we built our house. The NEC deliberately has no limit on how many outlets per circuit, in order to reduce the need for extension cords. But the city allowed only 12 "outlets" per circuit. I wanted to make all outlets 2-gang duplex, but the city counted those 4 outlets as 2, limiting me to 5 outlet locations per circuit. The result is that I have a huge panel of circuit breakers. Another house that we had for a while did have lights and outlets separated; but I think that was to save the builder the cost of arc-fault circuit breakers for the lights, which do not require them.
Although it's called the "National Electrical Code", it is completely optional for local jurisdictions, who may adopt it, amend it, or ignore it completely..
Counting 8 outlets as 1 ignores the diversity principle behind allowing multiple 15-ampere outlets on a 20-ampere circuit. I had the opposite problem when we built our house. The NEC deliberately has no limit on how many outlets per circuit, in order to reduce the need for extension cords. But the city allowed only 12 "outlets" per circuit. I wanted to make all outlets 2-gang duplex, but the city counted those 4 outlets as 2, limiting me to 5 outlet locations per circuit. The result is that I have a huge panel of circuit breakers.
Another house that we had for a while did have lights and outlets separated; but I think that was to save the builder the cost of arc-fault circuit breakers for the lights, which do not require them.
Sorry if there is any confusion, sometimes it is too tempting to divert into the weeds. For the benefit of the OP I am in complete agreement with Don's recommendation and it is exactly what is in my new train room. That said I really like the additional circuits you have. My decision was to try to keep the total layout load to 2,000Watts. If I fail at that objective then I will need to run a second 20A circuit. The train room is 16'X20'.
Tom
I went through this earlier this year when I ran the wiring for my train room. I have two 20 amp circuits that are phased for powering the layout. Additionally, there are two 15 amp circuits for room outlets, a 15 amp circuit for room lighting and a 20 amp circuit for track lighting. I think Don gave you good advice above, some others have taken you out into the weeds.
Charlie a.k.a. MichiganRailRoad714 (Charter Member TTC)
I just finished completely renovating our home in Orange County. We were required to have the lights on a separate breaker in all bedrooms and any room that could be used as a bedroom. My train room was interpreted as such a room. Correct on the multiple outlets ony requiring 15A duplex outlets. In my case the inspector required 20A because all four were in one gangbox.
I did a place in the city of San Diego four years ago and ran into the same requirements in the bedrooms and the den. I never went back to the NEC to double check because the inspector is always right when you need the signoff and the movers are on the way! Thanks for the correction.
I am unaware of any NEC requirement that lights and outlets be on separate branch circuits. They are intermixed in my house. In particular, I put a duplex outlet in the box with every light switch (and on the same circuit) for convenience in plugging in things like vacuum cleaners. The only restriction I know of for light fixtures applies to fixture taps, which may be as small as 18 AWG for up to 50 feet from a 20-ampere circuit.
If you have a single outlet on a 20-ampere circuit, the NEC requires it to be a 20-ampere outlet (which, in the US may also accept parallel-blade 15-ampere plugs). If there are more than one, they may be 15-amperes-only types. I have yet to see a household appliance with a 20-ampere plug.
...Don't count on the post war ZW protecting newer electronics at all as the internal breaker is mounted on the common side and does not effect terminals A thru D...
Don't count on the postwar ZW, or any transformer, for protecting newer electronics at all if you are relying on circuit breakers alone. The damage from over voltage spikes is already done long before the fastest breakers can act, and it's cumulative damage. You need Transient Voltage Suppression to clamp spikes, breakers do nothing beyond protecting the transformer and wiring from overcurrent.
Rob
bomber...Example - if your transformer is rated max output of 200 watts - the MOST load you can run without tripping a circuit breaker(transformer) is 160 watts for that transformer.
Not necessarily true. A 180 Watt PowerMaster will put out 180 watts continuously... a 135 Watt PowerMaster will put out 135 watts continuously... an 80 Watt CW-80 will put out 80 watts continuously... A 180 Watt GW-180 will put out 180 watts continuously...
A ZW is rated at 250/275 watts on the mains, 190-205 watts continuous output, with a breaker for 14 amps.
Fire/Train Man,
Good Plan, I've done essentially the same thing. 16x20 ft room. Dedicated 20 amp circuit for 1 newer ZW' for the tracks, 1 older ZW for switches, building lights and accessories. A 15 amp circuit for room outlets (other than Layout), another 15 amp for ceiling lights/fans. In 7 years never a blown circuit breaker. Have fun, and enjoy.
Don
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month