Wiring Fastrack

[Anonymous]

I posted this on another forum and was advised to post it here. I am new to the hobby and built a 4x8 layout according to the book " How to build your first Lionel layout" The book uses 0 and 027 guage and I am using Fastrack. In the wiring section, the author sets up block wiring and isolates the block with a track where he substituted a pin(non-conductive). How do you do this with Fastrack? I wrote to Lionel Tech support and they said to use either the asccessory activator pack or the grade crossing piece(6-12036) I am still stumped. Can someone explain in simple terms how this works. What I want to accomplish is to have isolated blocks all controlled by on-off switches on a controller.

[wrmcclellan]

Bobbohn,

I have built a couple of display layouts with Fastrack. This issue you raise is a bit of a weakness in the design. I am not sure how the Lionel tech answer helps as it is unclear to me that these sections they recommend have an isolated center rail. Since I have not used these sections personally, I am unable to comment on this aspect further.

I offer a couple of recommendations. The first would be to simply cut the center rail in the middle of a track section (look undrneath to see where the tabs are bent to secure the rail and cut between tabs) with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool (or equivalent).

Another approach is to cutoff the center "pin" at the end of a track section. You will need to file the ends of the cut center rail (and possibly the center rail on the section you will be mating to) back a bit to ensure they do not touch.

Once you have cut the center rails, you can then run a wire to the block power switch fro the isolated section. You can use the spade connectors or simply solder the wire to one the tabs used for the spade connector.

Regards.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Hi Bob, I'm still with you. Like I said I do get around.

I'm glad to see that we have a second opinion here, I suspect that there will be a few more. As you can see there are other options, but we are in pretty good agreement that the Fastrack system has a basic design flaw. Six months ago myself and others here recognized that fact.

I like the idea of using a Dremel to place a gap right in the middle of the section. It is almost like it was designed to be cut. Cutting the pins causes damage to 2 sections of track.

[Anonymous]

The other basic design flaw is that it's too noisy. Looks like the R&D people dropped the ball on this one. I do think it looks better than the MTH Realtrax and connects better, but that's about all.

[daan]

May be there is a bit of space between the two pins? If so a bi of vynil tape could fit in? Otherwise cutting the rail is the only option..
That's why I like tubular rail.. No fuss.

[Anonymous]

This is a follow-up from Bob Bohn. When yu talk about cutting the middle rail, do you mean to go under the track and cut through the plastic. The track seems to be encased in a plastic shell. There is a long tab under the track but under that is still plastic. You would have to cut through the plastic and then the track. Is that correct?
Secondly, Lionel says in their catalogue that all you need are 18 guage quick connectors to wire Fastrack. The 18 guage connectors I found are too big to connect to those terminals under the track. What kind or size are those connectors that they provide with the Terminal track. The spade lugs are 18 guage but the female flay connectors are alot smaller.

[lionelsoni]

I have never seen Fastrack, but it sounds like it must use 3/16-inch male Faston quick-disconnect terminals and you have 1/4-inch female connectors.

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by [e-mail]

This is a follow-up from Bob Bohn. When yu talk about cutting the middle rail, do you mean to go under the track and cut through the plastic. The track seems to be encased in a plastic shell. There is a long tab under the track but under that is still plastic. You would have to cut through the plastic and then the track. Is that correct?
Secondly, Lionel says in their catalogue that all you need are 18 guage quick connectors to wire Fastrack. The 18 guage connectors I found are too big to connect to those terminals under the track. What kind or size are those connectors that they provide with the Terminal track. The spade lugs are 18 guage but the female flay connectors are alot smaller.

No Bob, when we are talking about cutting, we are talking about the rail on top. Right in the middle of the section is a perfect spot. Just cut all the way through the metal part to form a small gap.



See those two "I" shaped things in the upper photo. Those are the places where the connectors slide on to feed the rails. Note that there are two on the center rail. Cut on the top side between the tabs. Dead center +/- half an inch.

As far as the connectors go, the tabs sticking down from the rails are all the way down to 1/8 ". A 3/16" female would work. The 18 gauge part refers to the wire that goes into the connector.

[Anonymous]

The way I created blocks is to remove the center pin on sections of fastrack that connect. Look underneath a piece of track and you will see tabs that are bent over. Pry these up so you can lift the rail up a little bit then you will be able to pull the center pin out. You may have to do the next set of tabs back from the end ot the track also to get enough clearance to pull the pin out. Track is noisy but if you keep speeds down it is okay.