Thanks for the advice. Will give it a shot and hopefully have Dad running again. Much appreciated advice!
Daddyo58I have an old MAR and an Allstate. The Allstate hook up terminals says to track 15 amps max for DC and to accessories 18 volts AC...
Rob
Seems the other transformers I have might be low as well then. I have an old MAR and an Allstate. The Allstate hook up terminals says to track 15 amps max for DC and to accessories 18 volts AC. The MAterminals show to track 0-14 volts and to accessories AC 15 volts.
I am guessing either of these would be underpowered. What can I do to get his locomotive running without breaking the bank?
Thanks for that philo426. I do have an old MAR CAT No 6049 transformer that puts out 14 volts DC and 15 volts AC it shows on the hook ups that DC to track and AC to accessories.
The other one I have is an old Allstate Cat No 6030 rates at 4-18 volts DC and 18 volts AC also says 20 volt amps on the face of the unit. The side says to track 15 amps max DC and to accessories 18 volts AC
Am concerned with accidently burning up the motor on the locomotive so have been pretty timid with it. Should I try it or not?
ADCX Rob ADCX Rob bobhwalker ...I converted all to DC operation with a bridge rectifier cross wired to the Pulmor universal motor... Could you describe/draw the circuit you used? Anything?
ADCX Rob bobhwalker ...I converted all to DC operation with a bridge rectifier cross wired to the Pulmor universal motor... Could you describe/draw the circuit you used?
bobhwalker ...I converted all to DC operation with a bridge rectifier cross wired to the Pulmor universal motor...
Could you describe/draw the circuit you used?
Anything?
Bueller?
Daddyo58Does this train run on DC power or should I be hooking it up to an AC transformer?
AC or DC. The problem with your DC power supply is that it is VERY low power... probably between 8-15 watts, and while it might run OK on the bench, the smallest transformer cataloged when the 8030 came out was 50 watts.
Runs on AC power so it should be fine.
My Dad just recently purchased an O gauge Illinois Central 8030 on eBay and I am trying to figure out he can run it on his Lionel Fast Track. He currently runs a Lionel steam engine on it with AC power. My Dad is 87 so I am trying to get him on track. I run an HO layout so O gauge is not what I am familiar with. I managed to hook up to it with my HO MRC HO transformer under DC power directlty to the locomotive using alligator clips to get it running after cleaning and lubrication. Ran for 30 minutes on my bench without issue. However, once I connect DC to the track it will not run. I attached dropper to the same attachment locations the AC uses. Positive on the center rail and negative on the outside rail. But the train does not respond to voltage. What am I missing here, I get the train to move if I attach the alligator clips to the rails directly but not with the jumpers. Does this train run on DC power or should I be hooking it up to an AC transformer? Really a mystery to me. Hope I can get some assistance for Dad.
That one's new to me. But there are a lot of ways to do it. For example, it doesn't matter whether you put the bridge rectifier on the brushes or on the field winding, as long as you don't put one on each. And it's optional whether you leave the e-unit in place and connected but shut off, or wire around it.
Leaving the e-unit operational actually has a benefit: Two-rail DC locomotives have the useful property that, if you pick up a northbound locomotive, turn it end-for-end, and put it back down on the track, it continues to go north. This allows you to run (particularly) Diesels in haphazard orientations, just like the prototypes. Three-rail locomotives lack this feature, but you can turn on the retained e-unit and step it to the opposite direction to get all the power synchronized.
Bob Nelson
The bridge rectifier circuit described by Bob Nelson is the preferred circuit for converting AC motors to DC polarity sensitive direction and is the way all of my GP9's are wired. However, there is a very old fashioned way to do it which also works: a crosswired DPDT relay which reverses the brushes with the coil fed by a reverse connected diode so that it pulls up only on negative DC picked up from the track. I did this once back in the 60's, but went with the rectifier circuit across the board as a better solution.
A simple way to do it is to insert a bridge rectifier upstream of the motor brushes: Detach the wires from the brushes and connect those wires instead to the ~ terminals of the bridge rectifier. Connect the + and - terminals of the bridge rectifier to the brush terminals. If the locomotive runs in the direction opposite to what you want, swap the + and - connections.
I should add that, if you don't need the DC-operation feature of reversing direction by reversing voltage polarity, you don't need to modify the locomotive at all--a universal motor will run just fine on DC.
bobhwalker...I converted all to DC operation with a bridge rectifier cross wired to the Pulmor universal motor...
I have six IC GP-7/9's of various vintages and one dummy unit. I converted all to DC operation with a bridge rectifier cross wired to the Pulmor universal motor. They are all running smoothly.
brianel027 CTT did a great article years ago on "tuning up" MPC-era diesels.
Does anyone happen to know the issue this was in? I really would like to try and get my #8030 pulling better - the boy has now taken a shine to it.
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