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ANTI-DERAIL FEATURE CONFUSED WHEN 0-22 SWITCHES ARE CONNECTED AT THE TURNOUT LIMBS.

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ANTI-DERAIL FEATURE CONFUSED WHEN 0-22 SWITCHES ARE CONNECTED AT THE TURNOUT LIMBS.
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 11:28 AM
I HAVE PAIRED 0-22 SWITCHES LINKED AT THE TURNOUT LIMBS OF THE SWITCH. DIFFICULT TO PUT INTO WORDS BUT THIS SWITCH ARRANGEMENT ALLOWS MOVEMENT FROM ONE PARALLEL TRACK TO AN ADJACENT PARALLEL TRACK. SWITCH CONTROLS ARE WIRED IN SYNCHRONY. THE PROBLEM: THE ANTI-DERAIL FEATURE GOES WILD WHEN ROLLING STOCK STRADDLE 2 SWITCHES. SHOULD I REMOVE THE FIBER PINS BETWEEN THE TRACK? IDEAS GRATEFULLY ACCEPTED! ====\ \\===== THIS IS THE SCENARIO.
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Thursday, October 28, 2004 1:28 PM
No, the pins need to be there, both outside rails. Are you sure you have the controller wired correctly? Try running the train through without the controller connected. I'm guessing that you are only using one controller to run both switches.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 28, 2004 2:06 PM
thanks for your comment.
yes, I put them on the same remote controller because they work as a pair moving simultaneously. if I knew how to insert an image that might clarify the design. i can isolate the controllers and rely on the anti-derail feature to keep the switches synchronized.


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Posted by lionelsoni on Thursday, October 28, 2004 2:07 PM
Are the outside rails of both tracks (other than the switch control rails) connected together? Are both tracks powered from the same transformer? Which rails between the two switches have insulating pins? Do you indeed have both switches connected to the same controller?

Please don't shout.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Back2Trains on Thursday, October 28, 2004 2:51 PM
I have a similar arrangement with 3 loops of track and 022 switches linking each pair of loops as you are saying. All switch motors are connected to auxillary power, each switch has its own separate controller and each loop is connected to a separate transformer output through an electrical switching arrangement which alllows me to operate the loops individually or as a single track controlled by one transformer output.
At the junction of the 022 switches between each pair of loops I have insulators in all 3 rails. The center rail insulator allows me to keep the 3 loops electrically independent from each other and the outer rail insulators allow the automatic non-derailing feature to operate. They do operate well and the only time i've had trouble with this arrangement is when I wasn't paying attention!
I'm running 3 different transformers on this layout: 2 ZWs for track power (3 outputs used) and 1 Kw with one variable output used to power the switches (13 and counting) and the other variable output to power accessories. All 3 are properly phased and all U terminals are connected to a common buss.
Hope this long-winded explanation helps.
Jim
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Thursday, October 28, 2004 5:23 PM
Another possibility is that the insulating pins on the straight legs aren't in the correct positions. This sounds like a simple basic problem, one of oversight, not defect. The trick is to figure out what is causing it, because we all know this can be done.
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Posted by waltrapp on Friday, October 29, 2004 9:55 AM
HUIZC:

If I'm understanding your scenario correctly you've connected 2 switches to each other forming what is often called the 'S' pattern - curved leg to curved leg.

If you put the insulation pins in the correct rails on both switches before connecting them and then removed excess stell pins the only rail of those 2 curved legs that will have a steel pin is the center rail. Insulation pins will be in BOTH outer rails.

I do this all the time and it's no mystery. I, too, only use one controller since, as you noted, the 2 switches act as one entity. I run the 3 wires to switch #1 and then run 3 wires from switch #1 to switch #2 so that when I activate one they both react. If you wired the 2 switches in tandem correctly, when you switch #1 so that it goes 'curved', then switch #2 should also switch 'curved'. When you switch #1 to go straight the both go straight. If they are doing opposite of each other then that's why when your train runs over them the derailer freaks out - you need to reverse your wires connecting switch #1 and switch #2.

- walt
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 29, 2004 10:43 AM
I appreciate the interest that the forum has shown to my problem. The solution that worked (last night) was to revert to my original wiring; a separate remote controller to each switch. They are on auxillary power. I have nylon pins in the 3 rails. It is dramatic to measure the voltage change on the outside rails as the switch moves from open to closed. They are certainly 'live.' I will rely on the anti-derail to keep these guys in synch! The third nylon pin is used to isolate 2 block sections.
Thanks to you, the forum, for your feedback.

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