I just disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated a 2037 locomotive that had not been run in decades. It did not run at all when I got it. Now it runs great-as good as any locomotive of the era will run (it will fly off the track if I'm not careful), but it has a buzzing noise-when running-sounds like the E unit. The E-unit works as advertised, good smoke unit, plenty of pulling power, Were these just typically noisy, or is there an E unit issue I can take care of?
I see no clear reason why I should grow up...
Some buzz loud some are fairly quiet.
If everything is working, your good to go. If you want to make sure just push the lever and it will turn off the e unit then you'll know that's all it is.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
The buzzing e-unit is, unfortunately, perfectly normal. It is possible to quiet it, by installing a small bridge rectifier just upstream of the coil. If that doesn't get it quiet enough, you can then add a little capacitance directly across the coil; but don't add more than you need, since it will increase the coil voltage and make it run hotter.
Bob Nelson
Some folks claim that tweaking the bends on the e-unit's pawl will quiet a noisy e-unit. I don't.
When I run an engine with a noisy e-unit, I just turn it off when it becomes bothersome. I don't have much occasion to backup on my train layout.
The buzz is part of the charm. If the engine is running good I wouldn't worry about it. Installing a bridge rectifier is the only way to get it to go away but not sure it's worth the effort.
When my Dad gave me my first train at 5, I thought it was suppose to simulate the engine sound. To me, it makes the whole train.
If you should decide to install a rectifier, there is a small type about the size of an asprin tablet that will work. They're rated at about 1.5 amperes. The voltage rating doesn't matter. Disconnect the two ends of the coil and connect them instead to the + and - leads of the rectifier. Connect the two ~ leads of the rectifier to the two points that you disconnected the coil from.
Here's what one from Radio Shack looks like. (Are they still in business?)
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