I picked up a Lionel 218 that doesn't run. After taking it apart and cleaning it, the motor runs fine in both directions when off the frame with power from two jumper connections and held in my hand. However, if I put the motor on the track (by itself), it seems to short out and won't run. All connections look good, but I can't figure out what is wrong or what to try next.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/mbd1325/DSCN1468_zpsb7b35e0d.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/mbd1325/DSCN1471_zps48d99356.jpg
To me it sounds like a short in your middle pick-up as it only happens when you put it on the track. Any chance you have a repair guide as you may be missing some type of insulation somewhere also could be the problem.
Just an idea
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It is not clear from your description if the motor is hooked up to the reverse unit and runs properly off the track. You may have a reverse unit problem, or the wiring from the pickup rollers to the reverse unit may be shorted. If you would post pictures of the complete setup including wiring off track, and also on the track, it would help to keep from guessing blindly.
Larry
I am sorry to be the one to let you know that the motor you have pictured is not the correct one for a postwar Lionel 218. The motor pictured goes to an Alco with a two position e-unit. The wire on the left motor brush holder should go to power.The wire on the solder lug under the brushplate screw goes to one of the 2 position e-unit output terminals (on the side)That solder lug must be insulated from the screw/chassis. The wire on on the solder lug between the two brush holders goes to the other 2 position e-unit ouptut terminal.
Yes, I had thought it wasn't the correct motor. It only has one axle magnetraction instead of the 2 axle the 218s had. Anyway, I still have the problem with this motor. I thought about the pickup and other problems, and that is why I took it apart so I have the motor by itself. When I put a power jumper on the left motor brush holder and a ground on solder lug under the brushplate screw it runs fine. If I move the ground jumper to the solder lug between the brush holders it runs fine as well in the opposite direction, as it should. When I put it on the track jumped either way, it shorts out. That is where I am stuck.
Again, I have the motor by itself, no e-unit or frame to try to sort this out. When I try this arrangement with another similar motor, it runs fine (just the motor alone) on the track. So somehow something is shorting out. This same thing happened when it was all together with the e-unit, frame, pickup, and by separating it I had hoped to isolate the problem. I have, it is something in the motor, but what to check now? The solder lug on the right side is well iinsulated from the screw/chassis.
When you are powering the motor on the track, you are using external wires to your transformer. Is the track being powered at the same time? When the motor does not run while on the track, will just picking it up off the track cause it to run? If you have an ohmmeter, without any transformer wires connected to the motor, check each brush and both ends of both field wires to motor chassis ground. No reading should be obtained (infinity reading). Any reading indicates a short to ground.
Larry,
I just tried a continuity tester I have and there is a closed circuit from the motor chassis to each brush and to the field wires, so there is a short to ground. (on another motor I have that works fine, there were no closed circuits with this test). Where would I look for it or does this mean the motor is not repairable?
Mark
Unscrew the solder lug and insulator from the motor and test again. If still shorted, take off the brushplate and pull out the armature. Check each segment of the copper commutator to the shaft of the armature for shorts. Finally, with none of the field wires connected to the brushes or ground, check each field winding to ground. The motor should run badly, or not run at all, if it is grounded.
ok, it is the armature that is the problem. The copper commutator does short with the shaft. I looked closely and don't see any contact or anything that looks like a problem anywhere on the armature. I would guess there is nothing repairable. How do these go bad like this?
I'm glad you found the problem. There could be a break in the insulation in the wire near the shaft of the armature that is causing the short. The armature can be rewound or replaced. Give the Motor Doctor a call for a repair price.
I suggest getting a quote for a rewind and comparing the price to getting a replacement armature. They are around.
Click here:
600-125 armature.
Rob
Your motor has two field windings, one red and one green. There should be two wires running from the field windings to the E unit. I only see one wire. The E unit must switch between the two field windings so that the polarity of the field reverses as the drum in the E unit rotates. The two field windings are wound in opposite directions, so to reverse the loco all that is required is to switch between field windings. You should have power from the pickup roller on the left hand brush holder (first picture in the series). The screw on the right side of the motor can be used to supply ground to the E unit. You need two wires from the field coils, one from each color of wire. I don't have a circuit for the E unit handy, but you can find one and figure out how to wire the 3 wires to the E unit.
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