UPDATE: Turns out that a) the staked in screws on the MRC transformers come out quite easily, and b) they're 6-32, which makes the conversion to 1033-47 nuts the proverbial consomme' a'la canard*!
Photos to follow, once my new camera arrives...
Mitch
*Duck soup for those of vous what don't parlay Fronsay. ;)
And I think I've found a good replacement for the bent brass strips...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-65-Lot-1920s-AC-Gilbert-CH-M-Angles-Right-Double-Erector-Set-Parts-/231156339272?pt=Building_Toys_US&hash=item35d1fdd248
lionelsoni The T-160 nuts are big, .4 inches in diameter and spaced .75 inches on a type-Z . Do you have that much room?
The T-160 nuts are big, .4 inches in diameter and spaced .75 inches on a type-Z . Do you have that much room?
H'm. Good point. Might wanna use the smaller ones, then...
Bob Nelson
TrainLarry There are replacement binding posts that are bolted in place (T-159R) from inside the case rather than the original staked in place originals. The nut is #T-160. Parts available here.
There are replacement binding posts that are bolted in place (T-159R) from inside the case rather than the original staked in place originals. The nut is #T-160. Parts available here.
Yeah, my original plan had been to remove the screws, screw these into place and use the appropriate Lionel nuts with them. However, if the threads are different... I may just be better off bolting these onto angle pieces and going from there! ;-)
Larry
Could you be looking at M3x.5? That would be very close to number 5, and about 50 threads per inch. If it is, you could use the nuts that fit the modern O27 turnouts (and possibly other Lionel products). Back an existing screw out as far as it goes, cut off the head, put on a locknut, and maybe have enough of the screw protruding to get the Lionel knurled nut on. If the screw is too short, just force it out and replace it with a piece cut from a longer screw of the same diameter and thread pitch and a locknut.
If you go with the bracket, brass is much stiffer than copper; and I would go with something about 1/16-inch thick. I would also use an ordinary screw and nut for the new terminal rather than staked terminals like Lionel used on their transformers, for a bulletproof connection to the bracket.
lionelsoni These are not too odd: KW, V, Z, VW, and ZW use 8-32 (T-160 nut). 1033, 1034, and LW use 6-32 (1033-47 nut). What are the screws on the transformers you have?
These are not too odd: KW, V, Z, VW, and ZW use 8-32 (T-160 nut). 1033, 1034, and LW use 6-32 (1033-47 nut). What are the screws on the transformers you have?
H'm. Seems to be 5-40, if I'm reading the external diameter (,125 inches) correctly. Which kinda precludes taking the old screws out and screwing in new posts, unless I wanna retap the holes...
TrainLarry A very simple and easy conversion would be to get some thin copper strips and bend them in an "L" shape. Slot one leg of the "L" to slide over the present terminals, and drill a hole in the other leg to accept a bolt-on type terminal post. The thread pitch would be irrelavant, as long as you get the corresponding terminal nuts for the terminal posts.
A very simple and easy conversion would be to get some thin copper strips and bend them in an "L" shape. Slot one leg of the "L" to slide over the present terminals, and drill a hole in the other leg to accept a bolt-on type terminal post. The thread pitch would be irrelavant, as long as you get the corresponding terminal nuts for the terminal posts.
A sound and statesmanlike approach! Think I'll do it this way. Thanks, guys!
Quite probably there will be little if any room inside your transformers to work and mount a bolt-on type terminal post along with a solder tab for the wires. A very simple and easy conversion would be to get some thin copper strips and bend them in an "L" shape. Slot one leg of the "L" to slide over the present terminals, and drill a hole in the other leg to accept a bolt-on type terminal post. The thread pitch would be irrelavant, as long as you get the corresponding terminal nuts for the terminal posts.
lionelsoni Be aware that Lionel has used several binding-post diameters and thread pitches over the years, including such oddities as 4-36 and M3x.5 .
Be aware that Lionel has used several binding-post diameters and thread pitches over the years, including such oddities as 4-36 and M3x.5 .
A useful hint indeed! I was thinking of using regular replacement parts such as one might get from Train Tender; do you know what the diameter and thread pitches would be?
You should always have a Leatherman multitool with you at shows anyway, the screws would/should be a non-issue.
Rob
Considered it, yeah, but I don't like having to pack and unpack transformers having any more dangly bits than necessary. Posts and nuts have a lower profile than a quick connect on the end of a short wire...and, as I said, don't require a screwdriver. ^.^
I have, in the past, mounted banana plug sockets on a small MTH DC power pack, but that was for a friend who needed a setup which was as user friendly as possible... ^.^
Have you ever thought to going to a quick connect system? I use this for my Garden Railroad and they work great.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
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I have some MRC and Atlas transformers, and I'm mulling over removing the staked-in screws in the terminals and installing Lionel binding posts and nuts so that, in train show use, I don't have to have a screwdriver handy to connect and disconnect 'em. Anybody tried this yet? How tough is it to remove the staked-in screws?
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