Another O22 Switch Problem

[rtraincollector]

First I'm using postwar O22 with that said thou I found my problem. what I had as a layout was a figure 8 with the sides connecting with a siding that connected with one of the sides but my problem was that just before the one set of switches was 2 sections of isolated track connected to each split so I could alternate trains as one came in the other could leave but with the isolation track connected to the switch it prevented the switch from doing what it was suppose to so I need to move my isolation track back one section is all. Thanks for the help all but it turned out to be human era  not knowing lesson learned but figure I at least needed to come back and tell all who replied what it was sorry for so long to reply but with other things just got back to it tonight  adding pics so you can see what I mean

 

 

 

[lionelsoni]

Since he described his turnouts as "O22"s, I am assuming that he has either real postwar 022s or the 6-14062 modern ones that Lionel describes (in large type on the manual) as "O Gauge O22 Switches",  Indeed they do have the control rails in the same (counter-intuitive) places as the postwar ones.

But, although Lionel brags that the 3010 has the same "footprint" as the 022, they don't call it an 022.  And, if that is what he has and if he put the insulating pins where he says he did, they should have worked. 

[ADCX Rob]

The pins for these switches:

Are placed differently:

[lionelsoni]

I don't know what "repair book" you have; but everything I have seen about postwar and modern (6-14062, 3) 022-type turnouts says that the curved control rail is on the outside and the straight control rail is on the inside.  The arrangement that you described is correct for later postwar and for modern O27 turnouts.  Here is my attempt at a diagram:

 Control                               Control
   rail                                  rail
    |                                     |
    |                                     |
    V                                     V
| | |   / / /<---Control rails--->\ \ \   | | |
| | |  / / /                       \ \ \  | | |
| | | / / /                         \ \ \ | | |
| | =/ / /                           \ \ \= | |
| | | / =                             = \ | | |
| |/|/ /                               \ \|\| |
| | / /                                 \ \ | |
|/|/|/                                   \|\|\|
| | |                                     | | |
| | |                                     | | |
| | |                                     | | |

[rtraincollector]

thanks all the switches all work fine ( or should say they did before insulation by just hooking to a piece of track with power and hooking up there controllers to them ) so I'm losing something I believe but will go look again but the isolation pins are on inner rails as the diagram I have from my repair book . think I need to check and see if there getting power by hooking controllers to them first and then maybe see other ideas as if they work with controllers I know there still good will then look at another angle lol. may have to go to Constance power pin and see how it works like that. I had a layout once the switches are connected to the correct other switch the train will run a route with the switches throwing themselves for the next switch and as they come up to it. I did this with O-27 5122/5121 switches back in the late 70's so was trying to duplicate it here.

[phillyreading]

A quick way to check your 022 switch, at the top where the three wires get hooked up for the remote control; the center is common(outside rail power) the other two terminal screws control the direction of travel. Jump the center terminal to either of the other two terminals and the solenoid should throw when power is supplied.

[phillyreading]

On the old post war 022 switches the insulating pins go into a different position then on the newer Lionel O gauge switches. Refer to a diagram for proper insulating pin positions if you are not sure. If I am correct the insulating pins go in the inside or shorter section of the curved piece of track and on the straight side, the rail closest to the curve track, as the other outside rail that goes all the way through the switch also supplies the common power for your switch. Another thing that can happen when you have more then one switch back to back is that you lose the common power because of insulated track sections needed in the previous switch, the cure is to supply a common to each switch at the top of the three terminal screws by adding a wire to the center screw.

[cwburfle]

It is very common to have a broken solder connection in the base of the 022 switch that causes the non-derailing feature to stop working.,
In order to fix this, one needs to remove the sheet metal cover from the bottom of the switch, and resolder the joints,

But if they are "trying" to throw, you do not have this problem

[lionelsoni]

Probably

[rtraincollector]

Do I have defective O22 switches. I have a couple sets where there is like 3 switches connected together you have the first one then I have a switch connected to each direction I have seem to have no nonderailment in any of them they do try but just doesn't happen I have tried adding speed and decreasing speed I starting to wonder do I need to do a seperate power to the switches like in the other conversation about O22 switches.