Let me guess - are you using a PowerMax transformer?
Rob
Here is a link to a page from the service manual for the locomotive. First, replace any wiring that is brittle or cracked. Next, take off the brushplate and clean the commutator, brushes and brushplate with naptha, available at a hardware store. Polish the commutator with a pencil eraser. Reassemble the brushplate and brushes, and apply a drop of oil to either end of the armature. Clean the wheels and pickup rollers with the naptha, apply grease to the gears, and apply a drop of oil to the axle bearings. Remove the e-unit and spray the contacts and drum with a plastic safe solvent. Make sure the plunger operates freely and the unit cycles properly. Insure the contacts touch the drum under slight tension, and are not bent, broken or worn through. Reassemble the e-unit, and check the loco again.
Larry
The Lionel die-casts are rugged and durable, They do occasionally fail totally, but if yours is running at all it proably needs some servicing which is doable at most work benches,
If you have had the boiler off and checked the wires, you may want to do that again, and start with running the six wheel motor by itself and test it on your track and see how it runs in that state.
Next, it never hurts to change the brushes and clean the motor as much as possible. Test run it again.
Motors that run well by themselves are being affected by something else.
If the motor does not run well check wires and soldering joints. If you have soldering skills solder new wires to the motor, but only if you can do this as well as factory original.
If the motor runs well after that ,remount the boiler. Sometimes short circuits happen with wires touching some part of the boiler. This has happened most often for me with the smoke unit. If carefully/properly installed the locomotive may run like it's supposed to.
I've never had to do more than what I mention above, not to say there might be other problems with you locomotive.
trainguy4466...I am using a low end Lionel transformer that is supplied in most of their newer starter sets...
You are using a PowerMax transformer, the problem is the transformer, not the 2018. The problem with newer transformers and these older trains is that they go into "foldback" current limiting mode too soon and too often compared to older 25 or 30 watt transformers that just have a conventional circuit breaker.
A CW-80, or an old 30-50 watt conventional transformer will run the engine just fine.
trainguy4466thank you all for your advice. I am using a low end Lionel transformer that is supplied in most of their newer starter sets. I've tested the motor itself and it still struggles to move itself along, and as it does so the transformer shows that a short circuit is occurring. I'll be completely honest and confess that I don't know what parts of the motor assembly are the brushes and I am unfamiliar with the proper method of cleaning any of the crucial electrical parts
I would try and find a different transformer to test it with first or maybe a hobby shop can test it. I have CW-80 that won't run my 2036 with 5 cars on it.
Just seen Rob's post and he is correct.
ZW's have plummeted in price, so if you are expanding, might as well get one. Correcting for inflation, they are about half what they cost new in the last year cataloged(1966). A really good one that has been fully serviced should cost you $180 or less, one that might need cleaning and light service(rollers, cord, rectifiers) could be even half of that. Some people that "recondition" ZW's will even offer 1 year or more warranties.
If the old smoke unit is still working, you can use liquid smoke fluid in it. Changing out the smoke unit resistor is not necessary.
Touch up the paint with a very small brush. I use an old shoe shine brush to buff in and blend in the paint, and the results were great. I could not tell where the touch up spots were, the blending was so complete.
trainguy4466... my 2018- having the old style smoke unit that takes pellets, I'm seriously considering replacing it...
Don't do it. All the element does is melt the pellets, so your existing smoke unit will work just fine with any smoke fluid. The pellet types are much more reliable and last for decades - not so much if you go with a liquid type. Try Mega-Steam fluid - it comes in dozens of aromas.
The 2018 is similar to most die cast steamers of that era. Very rugged. If it runs fine without the reverse unit engaged then I'm thinking the problem is not the transformer although using a more powerful one wouldn't hurt.
Try taking off the shell and running the engine without it. If it works fine then there is a short against the metal body. Sometimes the terminal on the e-unit where all the wires solder is too close to the body. you may want to bend that closer to the inside of the locomotive minimizing the chances of shorting.
While you have the locomotive apart consider converting the smoke unit to liquid. Conversion kits are available for less than $10 and when converted and used with a good smoke fluid your PW steamer will smoke like crazy.
BigAl 956...While you have the locomotive apart consider converting the smoke unit to liquid. Conversion kits are available for less than $10 and when converted and used with a good smoke fluid your PW steamer will smoke like crazy.
Don't do it. All the element does is melt the pellets, so your existing smoke unit will work just fine with any smoke fluid. NO CONVERSION IS NECESSARY. The pellet types are much more reliable and last for decades - not so much if you go with a liquid type. Try Mega-Steam fluid - it comes in dozens of aromas.
Here is my all original 1952 Berkshire(60+ years old) with the original nichrome pellet smoke unit using MegaSteam:
watch?v=2Y3E57pMq8w
It will work, although the whistle or horn will sound continuously. Also, the larger Tech 4 packs at 20VA(about 1.3 amps) only have half the power output of a PowerMax Plus. The MRC is not an upgrade by any stretch.
While you certainly can use smoke fluid in your postwar pellet type smoke unit, you also get original style smoke pellets. They are being made again by Trainz and are rather easy to obtain.
I have a 2018 with the same grinding and halting problem. Please tell me how to take the engine shell off.
See the service manual page mentioned earlier here for the 2018 loco.
Take off the drive rods and side rods.
Next, the motor mounting pin at the rear of the boiler needs to be punched out with a small punch. The ends of the pin are different - look closely. The end that has 'teeth' on it is the end that gets punched out. It also is the larger of the 2 ends. It just takes a tap to punch the pin out of the frame, then just pull it out the other side.
Lastly, take out the screw on top of the boiler behind the bell, and also the screw holding the steam chest in place. The boiler should lift right off.
Hey ACDX Rob - (or anyone else knowledgable...) I just read your advice about not converting smoke units. Then I looked at your video of your 2018 running. SO how many drops of smoke fluid are you putting into your steam loco?
I've read elsewhere to only do a couple drops, but your loco seems like it's smoking good and a couple drops wouldn't last too long.
I ask as I'm working on a 2018 right now. Runs greats and the smoke unit does still work. The pad will need replacing and I was considering the conversion kit, but seeing your video, it may not be necessary. And I do agree, the original one having lasted this long, most likely still has life to it. Thanks in advance.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
The video is of a 726RR(736) but the smoke unit is the same, and yes, I use 12-18 drops easily.
Thanks Rob, I stand corrected on the loco. 12-18 drops, wow. Thanks.
Not only is the smoke impressive on your engine, but the layout itself is also pretty impressive.
I throw a pellet in now & then too.
Fun layout! Is that a Bowser trolley on the upper level? Looks like the ones I've got!
i noted the length of the train Rob's berk was puling in the video a few posts back, admittedly on a flat surface. Is that loco equipped with magnetraction? If so, what would you expect of it pulling post war cars up a 5pct grade on marx 034 curves? Somehow, I think my 736 with magnetraction spins its drivers some on 4-5 cars. Comments?
Flintlock76Fun layout! Is that a Bowser trolley on the upper level? Looks like the ones I've got!
Yes, Bowser. The 132 station stops it at both south & north stations.
stuartmit...Is that loco equipped with magnetraction?...
No MagneTraction. 726RR.
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