Got a nice (I thought) Ebay deal on a Lionel metal log dump car./ except one of the trucks did not have a shoe, so the dump did not work. I now have the parts, but have no idea how to expand the rivet so the shoe stays in position and works.
I believe that the rivet inserts from the bottom of the shoe, through the spring, and into the truck, making sure all of the insulation is in its proper place.
Support the head of the rivet on a solid piece of metal that fits into the grove on the shoe. Then, with a small hammer and a center punch or nail set, hit the top of the rivet to expand it. Several light taps with the hammer works better than one hard hit.
The trick here is to support the truck and the shoe so it is stable, and still have two hands available to operate the hammer and punch!
It has been a while since I replaced one of these shoes, so I am working from memory here and might be a little off in my description.
Good luck.
If this is going to be a one time job, then you will have to improvise. If repairing trains is in your future, then a rivet clinch set like this would be the minimum recommended. There are other tools based on modified arbor presses available, but they are expensive, and are for those that do a lot of repairs, and want factory results.
You will need a rod of steel the diameter of the rivet head, and a vise to hold it upright in. This will be your "anvil" to back up the head of the rivet as you clinch over the open end. A suitably sized nail with the point ground into a round profile can be used as a suitable clinch tool. See the center of the BRT2-1 tip in the link to get an idea what you are looking for.
Now the fun begins. You may need a helper for this. Assemble the shoe, and rest the rivet head on your ''anvil'' in the vise. Position your clinch tool (nail) over the open end of the rivet, and give a tap with a hammer just enough to spread the rivet end to retain the assembly in place.
This is just a suggestion as to how the job may be accomplished. Others on this forum may have other ways to accomplish a one-off job, and you may devise your own way. Have fun. Welcome to the world of toy train repair.
Larry
Thanks for the quick response. I am new to the forum --and should have intro'd myself. I am just now getting back to Lionel, because of my grandson. I actually have boxes of HO, but he is too young (4) for them -- but am realizing that I may never get back to HO..as tinkering is fun..... I now have 2 small sets 027 - in a 5x8 space for now. Both engines were "starters" --one being a 2-4-2 and the other 2-6-2, with small transformers and some rolling stock.
In reading posts, I can use those small transformers to run the uncouplers and remote tracks and accessories, so I don't have to play with the train's control. --great hints and ideas in these forums.
I have my second shoe together and started to set the rivet by supporting the shoe on the edge of a large nail --and after breaking the first shoe (good thing I got a set of 4), the second is starting to mushroom nicely -- but taking time . Then it appears that the shoe must slide into the slot on the bottom of the truck, so that the fiber spacer is inside and the rivet rests against the spring contact. I had it in one time, but had not flattened / shortened the rivet enough and it caught on the tracks when I ran it. so there must be a "fine line" between "too tight" and "workable loose"
at this time, I don't need to invest in a special tool, but will keep it in mind. I am a retired Jr High shop teacher (and math and science) and so have a nice collection of "specialty" tools. My wife of 45 years tolerates my tinkering, because I have made many repairs to things she needs -- so a rivet set may be in my future. Both posts confirmed that I am on the right track --I had hoped there was an easier way...... Thanks guys.
Sounds like you are almost there, Richard. Keep clinching over the rivet end until it is snug and not loose, and you will be in good shape. It is somwhat of an 'art' to get rivets clinched properly, and it takes practice.
Enjoy your repair, and enjoy your trains.
Thanks -- I did switch to a more solid base and the tapping went better. It is now almost snug, and I just have to maneuver it into the slot. As with most of these type of repair --patience is necessary....
Thanks for a great forum. Many questions answered without having to post. Glad I finally "officially" joined the site.
an epilog of sorts to the log dump car shoe. I got it together, but the car was not working properly --sometimes dumped, sometimes opened both couplers. Here's the obvious lesson -- look for the simple solution first !
I assembled the control track as it came controller, track and wire. I thought I made some mistakes on that project and spent a lot of time reconfiguring its wires and solder joints. After still not getting the log dump car to function properly, and noticing a spark near a truck (not the one I put the shoe) when activating the track, I discovered that the wire was not soldered to the truck. Hence the sporadic operation, as the wire was touching different places when the train around the track..... Soldered it and things work as they should. I could have saved hours of frustration over the track, if I had just looked carefully at the car first......
Thanks for a great forum. good ideas. So the moral is look for the simplest reason first. And of course, enjoy the process. Some days you have to re-learn something you already knew. :)
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