An alternative for newspaper???

[KRM]

I am starting into some landscaping and will be using plaster cloth. I was wondering if there is something less flammable to use under it to replace crumpled up newspaper as the base? 

What do you guys use?

 Thanks,

Kev.

[lion88roar]

Kev - if you are using plaster cloth, make sure you put three layers down. Then once dry - remove the newspaper. The plaster cloth is more than strong enough to hold its form. If you are going to be putting structures on the plaster cloth, you should build 'bases' to support them.

Here you can see the base I built for the radio tower:


Covered in plaster cloth


You can see the newspaper in the tunnel portal


No more stuffing in the turkey

[KRM]

Thanks Brent. Where did you get the brick wall??

 I could use some of that.

[lion88roar]

York

http://www.sceneryexpress.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FL8150

[KRM]

Thanks for the link Brent. I take it you can cut this stuff to size?

[dougdagrump]

Kev, If you go with plaster cloth check and see if there is a medical supply house in your area. You may be able to get plaster cloth, the same as used for setting broken bones, at a much better cost than the WS stuff.

[jonadel]

Build the basic form with cardboard boxes, use crumpled newspaper to build it up and then use wet paper towels (cheap) dipped in Hydrocal, it's that's simple and dries like a rock.  The paper molds on you layout are the least of your concerns if you have a fire.  Hyrdrocal is your friend along with cheap paper towels, it works.

[KRM]

Thank you Brent, Doug and Jon. I am going to take my time on this. Never done anything like it before. The more ideas the better. I got the WS manual but it is basically just an add for use with their stuff.

[jonadel]

A few more things about Hydrocal  -- it's very messy when you lay it up but super easy to work with.  I like to work small areas and really focus on the details, just take your time and start small.  It also takes paint very well when dried.  If you have the rubber molds use Hydrocal and you can slap those molds right on top of already dried Hydrocal, when they are still damp you can mold them right to irregular surfaces and they will stick but you have to be patient.  We always tried to do scenery in the winter when the furnace is still running to help the drying process, I don't think summer would be a good time if you are in a basement fighting the typical humidity issues.

[lion88roar]

Jon - I bought a bunch of the rubber molds - any tips on getting them to release? How long do you recommend letting the Hydrocal setup before you 'release' the mold?

[lion88roar]

Kev - yes the walls can be 'trimmed' with a good sharp utility knife.

They recommend using 'hot glue guns' to attach the walls to your superstructure... but I found double faced duct tape holds flat surfaces very well and does not damage the wall sections when you remove them. I did find it necessary to use 'helper' screws on inside curves.

[silentman]

[jonadel]

Brent -- we sprayed the rubber molds lightly with cooking oil (Pam) before filling them.  If you want them to come out rock hard just let them dry and then peel the mold off.  If you want them to be molded to a surface you already have you will have to let them set up just a little while and them hold them to that surface and peel off the mold while it's still damp.  It is a matter of trial and error and if you lose a part of it -- so what?  Rocks are random and should not be predictable, at least in our opinion.  It is messy but great fun

The Scenic Woodlands book is a wonderful resource and well worth owning, their paint is the best for the rocks, it simply works!  We are away from home right now but we will be back tomorrow morning and I'll do some more digging.  I know you guy's probably get tired of me saying it, but building our layout was the just the best, we had a ball.  Running trains is fun especially with the grand kids but our greatest joy was building that layout.  I would like to do another build but I just don't have the heart to tear down 3-4 years of building especially when one considers how many hundreds of hours went into it.

[KRM]

Jon, Your layout looks great, You got it down. Has anyone used paper backed fiberglass insulation and placed it under the plaster cloth? I thought that could work and also kill any echo noise. I have no clue but was just thinking. I am getting a lot of info out of the manual and you guys, I am on a tight budget. I am also trying to figure out how to do my tunnel because it starts on the flat and ends on the elevated section of the outer loop.

Tks, Kev