Curmudgeon,
Thank you, sometimes I learn slowly. I wish the Flyer switches were that easy flip the switch motors, I still have some work ahead of me here.
The right side looks open in these photos, but the turn-table isn't too far away. I will look at the reversed ladder Idea, never saw one, but sounds interesting, and will ee it that might fit.
Aflyer
That's where I was trying to get you. And more benchwork room further to the right?
I was cutting Lionel 022 and 042 40 years ago to get closer, but you could just unscrew and swap the mechanisms over.
You can do a reversed ladder, too. Lead track comes in closest to the edge on this end, outlet track furthest away on the other. All tracks basically the same length then.
Hi all,
I have made some progress on the yard today,when I last posted I included a photo of the first turnout after cutting the switch motor completely off it.
Today I cut five more turnouts as I did the first one. In the photos below you can see the result, I have been able to add another track to the yard, even though it is short and will only hold two maybe 3 cars. The longest track will hold 8 cars. So I am pretty happy with it now. The yard tracks are now about 5" apart which is as close I can get without more surgery on the turnouts.
I still have work to do on building the switch throws, but I have the first one close enough to know it will work.
This shot is a closer view of two of the three left hand turnouts after being cut down, the ragged edges will be hidden by cutting some roadbed to fit.
Thanks to all who provided suggestions and comments. More to follow when I get the mechanics done.
Bob,
Hi, and thank you for posting the photos. They are pretty small, and I am having problem making them bigger, but it looks like we are on the same Track. Pun intended.
Great looking train room.
Thanks again,
Here is a link to an ancient post from Frank Eagles after a visit to my layout: http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/p/59523/741190.aspx#741190
If you can make out the small pictures (they used to be larger), you can see how I cut down Lionel O27 turnouts to get my yard tracks closer. The Lionel turnouts appear to be similar in shape and size to your Flyer turnouts; so you may be able to adapt my scheme to your layout.
Bob Nelson
Major,
I sure agree with all you have said about the A/F switches. They take up a huge amount of space and the track separation is just too big.
I too like the look of the American models stuff as well as the options for larger # switches. But at this point replacing all my track, switches and road bed would be a big nut to swallow. And I am not sure if the inventory is even available.
Thanks for you reply,
Interesting information presented on this thread. I have always felt that AF switches were the weakest part of Gilbert AF line, in that there was only one size! Even S-Helper did not improve the situation in that their only switch was the same geometry as original Flyer. The traditional Flyer track system has not been supported (with the exception of K-Line) since A.C. Gilbert went bankrupt in 1966. The new track systems by Lionel and MTH have and will more closely follow what S-Helper has done. I would like to see some one produce a switch or switches with different geometries that is compatible with the traditional AF system! I personally like the American Models track system in that the switches are a larger number, more than one degree of cross over track and is more realistic. However you cannot readily use traditional accessory hook ups with it.
Bill,
Hi, very nice layout, and nice job with building your yards. I wish I had more space to accommodate more yard area as you have done.
In the space I have, plus the desire for a double ended ladder track I have resorted to trying to cut down and alter some switches. Below I have pasted two photos, the first shows a switch with the motor housing completely removed. The second shows how I reversed the contact spring to allow the throw bar to hang down instead of up, and moved the solenoid to the opposite side of the mounting bracket. It isn't done yet, but getting close. If this all works I have reduced the distance between tracks from 7" to 5".
I still have some work to do to line everything up and try operations. I'll post an update when I get it working.
Thank you for posting your photos,
Curmudgeon, I was merely attempting to show aflyer how he might modify AF switches to allow closer spacing of tracks. I did see his original photo and do realize the area he is laying track on is different than mine.
Although my layout does not technically use a ladder track it has a configuration that works similarly. It's built on a curve. The picture in the previous post is not part of the main yard. The first picture here shows the leader part of freight yard. The switch at the bottom center is the first switch on the lead track. The other three switches along with the first form yard tracks 1, 4, 5 and 6. None of these are modified. I used various lengths of curve or straight track to space the switches and allow for close spacing of yard track. To the left of the light tower are two modified switches forming yard tracks 2 and 3 and out of the picture is another modified switch on track 6 to form track 7. The second picture shows the end of the yard from a different perspective. The total of 8 yard tracks are seen between the light tower on the right and the water tower on the left. The third picture expands the view of a separate yard I included in my previous post.
With some engineering one can use a combination of modified switches and unmodified ones along with various lengths of track cut from standard American Flyer to build whatever is required. The modification I used only cut track which will allow for restoration of the switch to original configuration by using parts of standard curve track to replace the track cut from the switch. The S-Gaugian Magazine that had the article describing the technique of modifying AF switches was from an issue published in the late 70's or very early 80's.
Bill
Arnoldafl,
Ok, now I can see your picture, this helps a bunch, and I will give this a try.
I am also in the process of cutting the switch machine off a turnout to see what I can come up with winging it. I am cutting the Bakelite with a cutoff wheel in my dremel, so it is slow and time consuming but I do hope to have a picture today! Not to sure about how to mount the solenoid from the bottom yet, but I will do some experimenting.
Happy Easter to all,
arnoldafl Try this!
Try this!
You did see the lead-in photo, right?
He's trying to do a ladder track for a yard. I didn't see the switch machines moved to the straight side in the photo you have. Is there something off-screen that show him how to do that?
I have looked through all the old S-Gaugians I have and I don't have a copy of the article on cutting up flyer switches.
In the March/April 2003 issue I did find a write up about a layout and David, the Author/Builder talked about removing the switch machines and shortening the rails on A/F switches.
I do have a few more switches than I need so I may go at one tomorrow to see what I can learn about cutting them up.
Thanks to all,
Here is the photo (I hope). It shows three parallel tracks at close spacing. Two more could be added with regular flyer switches, one on each side.
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/arnoldwk/PICT0038_zps4a3c2134.jpg.
The issue with the last suggestion is we aren't at the point of cutting track yet.
You cannot cut the track and get the parallel track closer together with those machines in the way.
I do not know what the throw is on you points with those specific turnouts. On my HiRail 3-rail I use sprung Caboose Industries ground throws (last ones I bout were over 20 years ago, but 208S or 206S or something like that). Mount your turnouts with a throwbar sticking out preferably the opposite side....the straight track side. Once the turnout is screwed down, mount the ground throw and connect a wire link to the throwbar.
Hi, I have searched through several old S-Gaugian magazines, but haven't found that article yet. I am still looking.
Looking forward to seeing your photo. The way I post photos is to first upload them to PhotoBucket, a free photo hosting, site and then copy and paste the link to the forum post.
Thank you,
CURMUDGEON,
Hi sorry for the delayed response, you are right the whole switch machine is large and bulky. The yard is very near the front of the layout, so I may experiment with cutting switches and leaving them just manual operation.
The pasted picture didn't stay with the post. If someone could explain how to past a picture with a post, it would be appreciated.
There was an article many years ago in S-Gaugain magazine describing how to alter American Flyer switches to allow for close spacing of sidings. I've done this alteration on a number of switches on my layout. I've attempted to paste in a picture so hopefully it works.
There is a simulated tie molded in the switch. Cut the turnout track just beyond the tie from the frog. Cut an equal length of rail from a curve section of Flyer track. Put the two together with track pins.
The other thing you could do is whack all the mechanism clean off, and use a Tortoise or Kemtron machine under the benchwork.
Once you get rid of the factory motor and mounting, you can do anything!
Thank you for that link. I checked it out, and his switch looks great on the layout. I will have to go look at one of mine and see if I can figure out how he did that.
Looks like alot of work, but also looks way more streamlined on the layout.
Thank you again,
If I recall from my days of working with folks with S, the issue is not cutting the curved track shorter to get the tracks closer...it's the motor placement.
First the motors need to be on the other side..or...below.
http://trainweb.org/csg/davis/davis4.html
If you scroll down, you will see how Bob Davis puts the motors underneath, which may allow you room to get adjacent track over the top by cutting you roadbed out a bit. THEN you can shorten the curved track and get closer spacing.
I don't think the turnouts you have are reversible.
Guys,
I have posted a photo below of my staging yard, as you can see the tracks are farther apart than they need to be, but this is because of the standard A/F turnouts.
I read somewhere about cutting down the turnouts to allow the tacks to be closer. Has anyone on this forum done that? If so can you post photos and or instructions?
Thank you in advance,
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