This is been a very informative thread. Thank you everyone-you have helped me in addition to Bob Baker.
ADCX Rob for answering "illuminated rocker switches."
KRM for showing how to tidy up the wiring by using a "Wiring harness."
Lionelsoni for revealing how to route the harness so it will not pull on the wire end connections every time the panel is opened. Also for showing how to make the "lock stitch" in case you wish to use cable cord instead of plastic cable ties. Good input Bob (lionelsoni.)
There is more information on how to start and end the cable cord method here:
Good luck with your project Bob Baker.
..........Wayne..........
Gentlemen,
Thank you tremendously for your suggestions. Kevin, indeed a nice wiring job, sir!
-Bob
Thanks again guys.
Lets keep this thread focused on helping out Bob Baker with his questions. What I did works but you guys also have working layouts so ther are more good ideas and ways to share what you have done too. Mine was just a suggestion of what I have done. I am sure there are many ways to do the same things.
I don't want this thread to be about me or just what I have done. So pitch in your ideas too.
But thanks.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Zero Export Kev, holy crap, thats A NICE job. like the lashing of the cables, clean, neat well labled. I like it.... Ryan
Kev, holy crap, thats A NICE job. like the lashing of the cables, clean, neat well labled. I like it....
Ryan
Thanks Ryan, Yeah and I can even troubleshoot it. The wires roll into the open and shut positions just fine and there is no problems like whatever Bob is talking about. It is not opened up much and is not on a car. I have been building wiring boxes on and off for years. Their easy to do not rocket science. They do require more work when used in moving equipment like a car or Caterpillar tractor where there is constant movement. Back in the mid 80 I built electrical cabinets for Electronbeam processors. Now that is a lot of wiring. But what do I know??
Bob Nelson
If you build a hinged panel, like Kev's, I recommend that you route all the panel wires to one corner of the hinged edge, then follow the hinged edge to the other corner. Clamp the wires at one end to the panel and at the other end to the box, so that the bundle only twists when you open the panel, and none of the motion is transmitted to the wires' connections to your controls.
Kev,
Nice, neat job. I know where you got your roots!
John
Here are some ideas.
I got these on e-bay and built this. Cheap and work fine.
To run switches.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-5-SPDT-On-On-Toggle-Switch-20-Amp-K102-5-/190816405061?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2c6d8b4645
To run accessories,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-5-SPST-On-Off-Toggle-Switch-20-Amp-K101-5-/190815147177?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c6d7814a9
Home Depot has some nice electrical switches. I actually prefer to use home wiring switched. There cheap, easily handle the current load of the train, and come in multiple colors.
You can use any 12 volt lighted rocker switch. You may need to use resistors to limit current to the lamps to keep them from burning out prematurely.
Rob
Good Evening,
I am running a conventional cab control layout with 3 mainlines and various spurs. I am using 16 guage wire, Lionel CW 80's, and have everything on the "block" system for efficient power distribution. Right now I am just using regular on/off light switches and gang boxes, and running the power through an MTH power block. They work fine, they just look horrible and cause an inefficient use of space. I would like to use illuminated rocker switches to control the power distribution across the layout. Could any of you with experience reccomend a brand and type of rocker switch that will replace my ugly on/off switches? Thank you for your time.
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