What is a better switch?

[KRM]

ADCX Rob

KRM

...I would love to see one of those K-Line 027 / 042R ones. Are any of you using them?

I have about 30 of them.

Rob, It seems you have the market cornered on those switches but I did win one on the bay so I can look one over.

 SJ, can you PM me on what kind of spring you are talking about to fix the K-Line ALCO S2 switchers? I got them from Chief so it maybe some of his Rebel sabotage. So I need to hunt for grits in it.   Funney the RMT ALCO S4 don't do it.

 RT, Let me know on the Gargraves, I would like to see one of them up cloose too.

 Thanks guys.

 

 

[ADCX Rob]

KRM

...I would love to see one of those K-Line 027 / 042R ones. Are any of you using them?

I have about 30 of them.

[sir james I]

I don't think Lionel's 027 switches are useless, if you have a problem with the same engine all the time it's usually the engine at fault.

[KRM]

vsmith, and SJ,  tks, and yeah vsmith now I have over $350.00 of useless and I gave away all of my Marx to a friend but they were 027R.

 Good idea but I need 0-42R switches. Not 027 but 042 in 027 height profile.

I would like to see one of those K-lines or the Gargraves RT was talking about. I was worried that a Ross was at O guage profile and would need to be raised.

 I would love to see one of those K-Line 027 / 042R ones. Are any of you using them??

[sir james I]

Kevin, K-Line made some nice 027 switches if you can find them.

As for the switcher, a common problem. Adding a spring between the frame and the power truck usually takes care of the derailment problem.

[vsmith]

I used a couple of those Lionel turnouts also and they were useless, of course it doesn't help that most all of my stuff is pre-war Marx with the extra-wide cast-in geared driver wheels that will quite literally "bounce" off a newer Lionel switch. 

My solution and it might work for you is to use older Marx pre-war O-27 turnouts they have extra wide gaps between the rails/center rail to accommodate that huge geared driver wheel, sorry I don't have a # number for them but they come up on Evilbay quite often, 

[Curmudgeon]

"Hi I have Lionel 027 profile 042R 6-65167 and 68 switches"

Sorry. Read that as 6-65167, 68 switches.

[rtraincollector]

Gargaves switches are O-27 profile I have some on ebay right now if the winner don't take all 4 I'll get with you. I have the option for the winner to take just 2 there bidding on or adding the other 2 to the win. You would still need to get the adapter pins

[ADCX Rob]

Regular Ross switches can be used with O-27 using GarGraves adapter pins, the RossPlate switches are "O" profile, quite a bit taller.

[KRM]

ADCX Rob

Curmudgeon

...at $70 or so each, and you have 68 of them, it's probably a better move financially to see what's wrong with them...

I only count 10.   yes I have 10 of them. 5 pair. I have found them new for $50.00 each and all of mine I got new.

One problem is the electrical shorting - this can be remedied by strategic application of some insulating tape on the sides of the big wide center rail. Yes the arcking seems to be on the center rail you can see burn marks there and and on the sides of the part that switches from side to side.

For operational issues, you may need to extend and/or raise the molded-in guard rails to keep rolling stock tracking better through the switch.

The K-275 and K-276 K-Line switches have the identical footprint if you can find them.  Cool this is what i am looking for, other options. I will look fo them.  Do a web search to find pictures of these and study the guard rails and swing rails to compare, as I have had very little trouble with the K-Line units.  It is possible that Williams or RMT may produce these again some day.  RMT has reissued the old K-Line SuperSnap in "O" already.

Thanks. What about Ross switches fitting up to the 027 profile?

[ADCX Rob]

Curmudgeon

...at $70 or so each, and you have 68 of them, it's probably a better move financially to see what's wrong with them...

I only count 10.

One problem is the electrical shorting - this can be remedied by strategic application of some insulating tape on the sides of the big wide center rail.

For operational issues, you may need to extend and/or raise the molded-in guard rails to keep rolling stock tracking better through the switch.

The K-275 and K-276 K-Line switches have the identical footprint if you can find them.  Do a web search to find pictures of these and study the guard rails and swing rails to compare, as I have had very little trouble with the K-Line units.  It is possible that Williams or RMT may produce these again some day.  RMT has reissued the old K-Line SuperSnap in "O" already.

[Curmudgeon]

http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/102404.aspx?sort=DESC

[Curmudgeon]

Finding another is always an option, but, at $70 or so each, and you have 68 of them, it's probably a better move financially to see what's wrong with them. If they all do it, and it's the same issue......

We do need to eliminate points or frags. Gonna take some close up watching and see.

I am guessing it's the check gauge on the frog, from wing rail to guard rail. Might be a good idea to make a shim, brass would work, slip it in and bend it around the ends of the guard rail. .040 or so should be a starting point.

[KRM]

I have done almost everything you have suggested .

Curmudgeon

What part is causing the derailment? Many things it seems depending on what is on the track at the time.
Are the points fully closing? Yes Does it cause derailments on straight as well as curved portions? No

All cars derail? Post war  more than modern but I have had issues with new RMT ore cars. Type of wheels that derail (fast angle with wheels affixed to axle, or older style with wheels loose on axles) More of these? My new issue Santa FE Blue Strip Passenger cars are the worse. Wheels are super sloppy on these cars and they all spark when crossing the switches like the pickup rollers are shorting.

Are the wheels picking the point of the frog? I can't see it but seems to be. The K-Line ALCO S2s just seem to drive right off when turning into the right hand switches.
If so, have you tried shimming the opposing guardrail? No

If points are closing, yet causing derailments at points, possibly filing a sharper point on them to keep flanges from picking a dull point? points are sharp but wiggle around inthe switch body and they can't be tightened up because you can't take the bottoms off.

Have you used these same switches and seen how they are made? Not a lot you can do with them. That is part of the reason I would like to find others that could replace them.

Thanks

[Curmudgeon]

What part is causing the derailment?
Are the points fully closing? Does it cause derailments on straight as well as curved portions?

All cars derail? Type of wheels that derail (fast angle with wheels affixed to axle, or older style with wheels loose on axles)?

Are the wheels picking the point of the frog?
If so, have you tried shimming the opposing guardrail?

If points are closing, yet causing derailments at points, possibly filing a sharper point on them to keep flanges from picking a dull point?

[KRM]

Hi I have Lionel 027 profile 042R 6-65167 and 68 switches on my layout and they are junk right out of the box IMHO using the hindsight I now have.    Many of my trains and their cars have problems crossing these switches. I have 10 of them on my layout. Most of them are okay if you run straight over them but boy do they give me fits when running through their thrown postion.

Who makes something better that will work with my 027-profile track. What choices do I have? I would like to find something to get these off of my mainline loop but I have never seen or used anything else. I live in the middle of noplace USA.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Kev