As was observed, there are four tabs on the gearbox that are inserted through the motor top plate and staked. The reason I do not recommend seperating the gear box from the motor top plate is because overzealous restaking (upon reassembly) will often cause alighment problems. If the alignment is out, the motor truck will operate very poorly.
That written, I seperate the parts as follows:
File the edges of the tab until it is once again just narrow enough to slide through the slots. Then use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop each tab out by gently prying between the top plate and gear box assembly. (find a place to slide the screwdriver in).
For reassembly, I have a metal block that is the correct width to support the gearbox without touching the gears or wheels. Snap the parts together. Use a 1/4 inch cold chisel to restake the tabs.
Remember, too much force may cause an alignement problem.
Is there a method to getting the top plate separated from the frame and side frames? It seems to be pressed together and notched at the connections.
The worm wheel (gear) is on it's own shaft. You do not need to remove the wheels to replace this gear. You will need to either remove the decorative side frames or remove the gear box from the motor top plate.
I suggest removing the side frames.
Start out by unsoldering the wires from the brushplate.
Remove the brushplate and armature.
Remove the power truck from the frame.
Remove the side frames.
The worm wheel shaft is in the center of the truck. It has a spur gear pressed onto the end. You will need to remove that spur gear. (On many engines this spur gear is plastic) I suggest getting a replacement spur gear too. They sometimes crack.
Press the shaft out. It is stepped (shouldered) and will only press on in one direction.
Reverse the process to reassemble with a new gear.
If your other gears are worn to the point that they need replacing, I suggest checking the axle bearings. The plastic side will probably be OK, but the metal bearing side might be worn,
Thanks Larry. I got the file open. I used my other lap top and faster connection.
Thanks Rob that works. I'm still not sure how you get the field housing apart from the frame. It seems to be stamped together. Guess I try to get the file open and do some reading. Has anybody done this type repair?
Rob
The Lionel file is a large .pdf file, and you need a reader such as Adobe or Foxit to open it. The diagram is on page 301 in the file.
Larry
I ended up buying a new diesel engine. It is a Gp-38.
I would still like to get the other one fixed. I couldn't get the Lionel pages to open. I'm thinking it might need to go to someone with experience.
Lionel supplement 1, page 15-32, shows an exploded view for the power truck on the U36B locomotive. To change the pinion or drive gears requires pulling off the wheels. While you have the wheels off, it would be wise to replace all the gears, including the worm wheel. The Train Tender referenced above has the gears, including a brass or nylon worm wheel. Page 15-33 of the service manual has the part numbers.
Not sure exact time he will be out in the barn (where he works ) but give Jeff Kane a call his web site is www.ttender.com or email him at jeff@ttender.com he should answer both questions calling is better. very knowledgeable as use to repair trains till he started just selling parts.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
My Lionel u36b spur gear gave out or should I say was ground up by the worm gear. I have tore it down somewhat but can't figure out how to get the gear out. Is there a secret and are there replacements available?
I have been told the engine is a 1974 issue.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month