I really appreciate all the advice provided. I'm very fortunate to have found this forum!
I have used a somewhat lower temp (120 degrees F) for a longer time. It pays to be patient, and perhaps do a little experimenting ahead of the final project.
Clear-coats have been used to obtain the desired gloss.
Your concern about the possibility of a "domestic crisis" is well taken. I didn't (and wouldn't) risk it in my restoration efforts. A box with a large incandescent light bulb (if you can find one, or multiple lower-wattage ones might suit you better. (I did all my painting/baking out of doors in summer.)
Problems with lingering odors in the kitchen oven HAVE been reported. Not worth the risk, IMHO.
In removing paint on a die-cast engine, soaking the shell in brake fluid worked for me. After the paint broke loose, I scrubbed the engine with dish-washing liquid using a tooth brush. All of the paint was removed and the dish-washing liquid cleaned the brake fluid residue from the die cast shell.
When I applied the new paint the engine looked new.
Safety advice wear rubber medical type gloves.
Just curious, if I bake at 150 degrees in the oven for a half hour, will it leave any lasting smell in the oven? I'm trying to avoid a domestic crisis.
Also, is it advisable to hit the final coat of enamel with a clear coat? The goal is to use specially formulated paint to match the original colors and try to get the gloss the right amount so it doesn't appear over restored.
Naptha (lighter fluid) will get out all the grease, grime, oil and grunge from everything. It will not attack plastics or paint. Available at hardware stores.
Larry
Thank you both for the advice!
FWIW I found a simple bucket of regular car-wash to be pretty good for removing grime from prewar.
CJ Meyers
You can buy metal paint stripper in spray cans at Lowes. That is what I use. Or, just use household oven cleaner. The one that smells really bad is best. Baking on is good but not necessary. As I see it, baked on paint chips off as easily as any other way. Baking at 150 for about 30 minutes if you desire. One guy I know uses light bulbs in a box to achieve the same thing. Goo-Gone leaves a residue behind and laquer thinner I don't recommend. If cleaning is all you want to do, I use dish washing detergent and a small brush. If you see white stuff left behind use a mix of white vinegar and water. 75/25.
Roger
Hello,
I have a few prewar pieces that need a good scrubbing, and have already seen the basic cleaning with soapy water. What do you recommend be used for getting that grime and deep down crud out of the paint? I've heard everything from oil to Goo gone and even Pledge. What has worked well for our members?
Also, I'm currently restoring a 248 loco and have reached the point of paint removal. Will lacquer thinner effectively remove all the paint, while using a small brush? What other effective methods have others used?
Lastly, is it really necessary to bake primer and enamel onto the trains using an oven? It's not clear why this is necessary other than creating a durable finish. Wouldn't days of air drying achieve the same effect?
I appreciate any help with these questions, and have been enjoying my efforts in saving these old tin trains.
Tim
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