Questions Concerning an Old Scout Set

[cwburfle]

Your description of what happens when power is applied suggests the drums used in the reversing mechanism (note it is not an E-unit) are out of sync with the brushes.

This could be so.
The wheels do not have to be removed to correct this issue.
The drums are behind a plate on the side of the motor. It is held in place by two screws, which will be either hex head or slotted.
There are two leaf contacts, one on top and one on the bottom. These contacts touch both drums. The drums have alternating segments of plastic and copper (or silver) around the edges. The drums should be placed so each individual contact sprint is touching only one of the drum's metal contact.
Be aware that the drums have different teeth. In order for the engine to work, they must be installed on the correct side.
While you have the drums out, work the lever on top. You should see a small metal strip  come into the drum chamber when you flip the level up (forward). The drum with the protruding teeth go on that side.

The Lionel factory service manual has a bunch of pages on servicing this type of motor.

[Papa_D]

First of all, if your're willing to learn about repairing post war Lionel trains, I strongly suggest you get Greenberg's Repaiir and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains.  It has diagrams and descriptions for all things post war Lionel.  The 1110 Scout is on page 110. As previously noted Scouts are a different beast to work on.  To work on the internal motor or reversing unit requires removal of the wheels. This requires a wheel puller.  Your description of what happens when power is applied suggests the drums used in the reversing mechanism (note it is not an E-unit) are out of sync with the brushes. This is not a great first "learning" project.  Sometimes this problem can be fixed by hitting the outside shell several times by hand, placing it back on the track and applying power to see if it works, repeating process until it does.

I installed a Dallee E-unit in my 1120 to fix this type of problem.  Also added headlight, headlight lens, red markers, bell, and side railings. Spent more than it is worth, but got the satisfaction of having an engine that looks and runs great on my O-27 layout. 

Good luck if you proceed with repair.

[cwburfle]

Typically the while on those plastic parts is mold release compound. It can get fairly thick and cruddy looking. It will melt away with some hot air from a hair dryer.

I think its great that you are going to use your 1110 to learn a bit about fixing up old locomotives. Just be aware that it as a "scout" motor, which is much more difficult to service than most Lionel motors, and does not represent a typical Lionel motor.  A lot of folks won't touch them.

[scrambler81]

 I just had a box of old trains land in my lap, and I have a couple of questions. The set includes the 1110 Scout, X-1004 Baby Ruth boxcar, 1002 Lionel gondola and a 1007 Lionel caboose. As near as I can figure, it has no real value, which is fine because it is not for sale. I dropped the locomotive on my layout and gave it a little juice. With the reverse switch forward, it does nothing. If I pull the switch back, the headlight comes on, the motor hums and it seems like it wants to move but it can't. I'm thinking this might be just the piece for me to learn how to fix up an old loco. Any suggestions on how to begin or resources to check?

 My bigger question relates to the cars. All have black plastic trucks and couplers, and most of that plastic is now white. I lightly rubbed a wet Q-tip on one of the couplers, and it seemed to remove some of the residue. Has anyone seen this before? Is there a preferred method for cleaning these up?

 Other than these issues, everything here is complete and unbroken, so I thought it might be a fun set to clean up and run now and then.