Which Type of Sand Blaster?

[Vitruvius]

I have a few Prewar trains I'd like to restore and was wondering if anyone could recommend a hobby sand blaster that would safely take the paint off?

Also, where can I buy matching Prewar Lionel Paint?

I appreciate any help!

Tim

[Gray Cat]

Tim, although I can't recommend a particular "blaster" since that depends on your space available and budget, I can offer some tips on it's use. Also I would say if there is any way you can get even a small blast cabinet to contain the media it would be best. Remember to always have plenty of ventilation and to wear respirators with filters. Many media's can be dangerous if breathed in. I have an Eastwood blast cabinet that I use a pressure pot with. This is not the siphon pickup blaster that comes with the cabinet. The main things I have learned about blasting castings like train bodies is to use a fine medium and watch your pressure and distance. Sand is a definite no no.. large media like sand will pock the metal or cause damage. I use silicon carbide which is fine but aggressive, my system allows me to dial in the pressure. With light air pressure, Holding the nozzle back a bit I just work it to gently erase the paint. Until you get the feel of it, make sure you don't hold it in one place too long. Keep it moving. On most old trains paint just comes right off. In your case a small table top blast cabinet with walnut shell would probably work best. Something like this one..

http://powertoolsmaster.com/80psi-table-top-5cfm-abrasive-sandblaster-blast-cabinet

Soda blasting has become very popular too.. just plain old baking soda. Takes off paint, is biodegradable and cheap ( if you breath some in it's not harmful but you'll get a funny taste in your mouth, but the benefit of fresh breath is included!) The soda is not too effective on rust or other corrosion though.

Lastly, remember that when blasting you open up the pores of the metal and expose raw metal to the air. It can and will corrode very quickly. When finished your blasting project, remember to blow off the piece with an air nozzle then a thorough wash down with something like Prepsol (a pre-paint solvent to remove dirt, wax or other contaminants). After dry try to get it primed as soon as possible.

[TRAINCAT]

Tractor supply sells blast cabinets for around $99.99 I think.  There is an extensive how- to on the OGR forum if you look for it about blasting and what sand to use. One option for you may be what I did. I found an automotive engine rebuild shop that used a glass bead blaster and he did it for me. Looked fantastic after.

Roger

[Koala]

   I have been using a plastic cabinet sandblaster that I bought from Harbor Freight 30 years ago.  I don't know if it's made anymore but I know they make a metal version for about $125.  It comes with a light, the pick-up tube and blast gun and the cabinet which you have to put together. (make sure you buy some silicone and seal all the seems after putting the cabinet together).

  You will also need a compressor with a adjustable air pressure output and a small vacuum to suck out the dust while you are blasting. 

   I used to use "OO" play sand but that will clog up if it gets a damp air supply (unless you have air dryers on your supply line - expensive).  I now use a fine ground glass for the media (cuts great and is fairly cheap).

   A nice accessory to add is a foot control for the air supply.

   Start out slow and practice on a few pieces.  If you are doing cast pieces then pressure is not a concern but if you are doing sheet tin pieces turn down the pressure and use a piece of wood to back up the piece or the air pressure could bend it.

   As far as the paint goes you can get pre-war colors from Henning but it comes in cans so you would need an airbrush or from a company called Woods in spray cans.

   Hope this helps you get started.   

                                                                Wally

[Gray Cat]

Koala

 

   Start out slow and practice on a few pieces.  If you are doing cast pieces then pressure is not a concern but if you are doing sheet tin pieces turn down the pressure and use a piece of wood to back up the piece or the air pressure could bend it.

 

                                                                Wally

Something Wally says here made me remember something. Tinplate can warp if you are too aggresive with blasting.  It will get hot! The blast media hitting the surface creates heat which can warp thin metals. Also in my opinion the larger grits get hot faster. Again a reminder, go slow til you get the feel for it.