As I mentioned in my earlier post, I'm getting back into the O gauge hobby and this time I want to do some things right. I've heard some people like to use de-natured alcohol to clean tracks with. I just bought some and it says if you want to use it as a cleaner to dilute it, is this necessary and what would be a good amount?
Also, I run G and N scale trains too and N scale being so small (and my fingers being so fat) I haven't and don't intend to carry out repairs by myself, however, since O gauge trains are a little bigger (though no doubt there are screws and parts that could easily get lost), I was wondering, what's the best book/guide for repairing O gauge/Lionel trains? A quick search at Amazon brought up the Greenburg book and it got many good reviews. Anyone have any suggestions?
it depends how old of trains your talking about if your dealing with post war trains 1945 - 1969 Greenberg's repair and operating manual for Lionel trains 1945 - 1969 newer trains a lot of it is on Lionel's website under supplements int he repair area of the website but its a hunt and find basically to determine which supplement you need
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
For postwar trains, Greenbergs "Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains 1945-1969" can't be beat.
CJ Meyers
Track: Use Scotch Bright pads (grocery or hardware store) for getting the gunk removed and then straight denatured alcohol (undiluted) with a clean cotton cloth. I use old t-shirts. Use the alcohol liberally, it's cheap. Any alcohol residue evaporates quickly.
Do not use steel wool or SOS pads because the particles will wind up stuck to the motor magnets.!!!! A very fine grit sandpaper will work as well. Just don't get overzealous.
Jack
PS: Has anyone used naval jelly to remove rust? How well does it work? Any problem with residue, or do you just take a second pass with the denatured alcohol and t-shirt?
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
Thanks this is very helpful, I would assume denatured alcohol is ok to put the rest down the drain?
I've used naval jelly to remove rust, and it woks well, but I don't think it's appropriate for model railroad use, it's really made for heavy rust removal from substantial steel items, not light items. What works pretty well, and I'm referring to my gun collecting expertise, is Hoppe's Number Nine bore solvent with a brass or copper scouring pad. If the rust isn't too heavy the scouring pads will cut it very well and won't damage any finish that's left on the metal, assuming the metal's not painted. By finishes I'm referring to black phosphate coatings or bluing.
If your track's old and rusty I'd have to agree with the other posters, don't fool around, just replace it.
When you do get the rust off and you find pits in the metal unfortunately you'll just have to live with them. Pits are forever.
And for preserving a painted metal surface use a paste wax, don't use oil. Oil will penetrate the paint and lift it off, not right away, but after a time it will.
Firelock76 Hoppe's Number Nine bore solvent with a brass or copper scouring pad.
Hoppe's Number Nine bore solvent with a brass or copper scouring pad.
Hoppe's is a copper solvent.
arkady Firelock76 Hoppe's Number Nine bore solvent with a brass or copper scouring pad. Hoppe's is a copper solvent.
No, Hoppes is an EVERYTHING solvent, copper bore fouling, smokeless powder residue and primer residue. Trust me. it will also attack light rust on steel and penetrates like crazy, which is why you don't leave a film of it on nickle plated surfaces or ANY plated surfaces. I've sworn by the stuff for years. I've gotten more rust off gun metal with Hoppes and elbow grease than I care to remember.
the best deal around i have found is S-L-X by Klean-Strip. it is sold as a solvent, but it is close to a 90% equal mixture of ethyl and methyl alcohol with a bit of methyl isbutyl ketone. usually available at hardware stores, in gallon cans it's a much better deal than those small drug store bottles of alcohol. i actually use it mostly for live steam fuel, but it works well on dissolving grease. just be aware that if you leave 90% alcohol open to air for any length of time, it will eventually become 70% concentrated as it picks up moisture from the air quite readily.
i don't suppose it's the worst thing you can throw down the drain, but why would you want to?
my only disagreement with anything said so far is that i'd never suggest any sort of abrasive for cleaning tinplate track. talking about tubular track, the tin plating is not that thick and it doesn't take much effort to remove that metal.
one last tip, if you are going to clean your track, always do it BEFORE an operating session. this will leave at least a light coat of oil residue which will protect the surface from open air. given enough humidity, i've seen a newly cleaned track form a light surface rust literally overnight. it was barely visible, but the trains definitely noticed operating very erratically.
RockIsland52PS: Has anyone used naval jelly to remove rust? How well does it work? Any problem with residue, or do you just take a second pass with the denatured alcohol and t-shirt?
I've used a product called "EVAPO-RUST" for a couple of years to remove rust from train parts. It removes rust without removing tin or nickle plating. Doesn't harm copper or brass or plastic. It'sslow - overnight soak, but leaves a clean bright part. Might need to buff with a clean rag. About $30 a gallon @ Harbor Freight or auto supply stores.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fln=1&_sacat=0&_npmv=3&_catref=1&_nkw=evapo-rust&_lncat=0&_arm=1&_armm=94&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FOther-%2F6755%2Fi.html%3F_fln%3D1%26_npmv%3D3%26_catref%3D1%26_nkw%3Devapo-rust%26_arr%3D1&_armi=Other
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